Hood scoops did they help!?!?

[glassman]

Mr 5&50 is a big inch Hemi in a 65 Belvedere with an original size, 2.5" and style Hemi scoop. He buys my AFX scoop 4.5" and installs it. Comes back 3 weeks later happy as hell and said it was the cheapest horsepower for the money. Cut 2 tenths of his e t without rejetting.
The Shadowwoods 64 Plymouth max wedge heard about the gains over the original size scoop and orders another fiberglass hood and this time with an AFX scoop. I see him again a couple of months later and ask where the new hood is. He says he keeps it in the trailer for when he can' make the number, then he takes the AFX hood out and cuts 1.5 tenths of the e t and he is in the program. That AFX bolt on scoop for $325 is my best seller here at Sled City Fiberglass.

 

[biomedtechguy]

if you don't get any gain,
more than likely the scoop isn't working right
or isn't tall enough or the entry to the carbs is too abrupt etc.
to get into the fresher denser cooler air "properly"
that aides performance gains

I've read that the open version hood scoop on the 65 GTO is too small to make a positive impact, BUT I have to default to "it's better to draw cooler air from outside vs blazing hot under hood air"
Now I would agree that it doesn't offer any "ram" effect, but I certainly don't think it hurts vs any under hood air feed option.
Besides, with the 3 independent chromed air filter assemblies it sure LOOKS COOL!

 

[Stroker68]

Forced air seems like a good idea. Engines are just big air pumps right. More air moving more power right? Made mine out of a sheet of aluminum and a k&n stub stack sealed to the hood. Supposed to smooth out the air flowing i guess. Seemed to make a difference in seat meter.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Morose gold anodized aluminum air cleaner sat atop the Holley 4bbl I used on my 1979 E58 police 360 when I got rid of the Lean Burn spark control system and the Carter lean burn 4bbl.
That ignition was so unreliable, I could never tell when the engine would just die, or if it was going to be 30 seconds or 10 minutes before it would miraculously run again. I loathed the ignition, the Lean Burn module in particular so much, that I opened up the plastic cover of the gel encased Lean Burn electronics block, cut it in half with metal shears, burned one half in a steel drum, and then a group of my friends (who were also into cars) joined me at "the point" of Lake Pontchartrain and had a "farewell ceremony" for the remaining half.

Anyway, Moroso made a point to tell the story about the design of the aluminum top in particular, and how its height and shape helped smooth the flow of air into the carb.

 

[justavillain]

This video is for fire departments but air flowing is considered a liquid in physics. ( FYI I am a paramedic firefighter as my day-to-day). This video is about adding a device to a hose stream it's only 5 min long



the stream shaper is acting like an air filter. It helps smooth out the flow to make it move more effectively.

this may help cement the idea to keep an air filter, and Engine Masters more or less proved the biggest one you can run or the K&N filter top is the best.....besides a huge salad bowl

 

[rumblefish360]

LOL, good one! It's long been known that you ether ram that air in with a scoop or get the scoop to turn the horizontal air into downwards vertical air because stacks work well. Proven over and over again since the '50's.

 

[malex]

I run the hemi hood scoop. It's sealed to an air bell to the dominator. I'm also suspect that it's messing up the signal to the carb. It's just a hunch at this point but enough so that I have been researching hood scoops. Reading 33IMP's comment about his experience says lots to this.
On mine, it seems that from one run to the next I can feel momentary flat spots, lay over like, always around the top of 2nd gear, which is likely somewhere around 90 to 100 mph or so, it's noticeable in the seat and the tach. I've read that scoops that are open to the flat of the hood have turbulence and will push the air back out. Perhaps that is what I'm experiencing?
I've read that with the 6 pack scoops, having the bottom closed off / opening above, eliminated the turbulence problem and they work better.

 

[Bill76]

Many years ago a rod magazine did some testing on scoops . They put small dabs of oily grease on different areas of the hood and would run a pass to see witch way the dab of grease would trail , their results were that different areas on the hood the trails were moving forward ! So they put the scoop on backward . It looked like crap and their results must have been also cuz I haven't seen many backward facing scoops lately.
It would make an interesting wind tunnel test to see what worked and what don't -------- I will put it on my list to do when I win the lottery.
Deplorable Bill

 

[dvw]

If you are worried about signal I've found that air rushing over the bleeds affects bowl pressure. We learned this with my sons blow thru turbo car. Couldn't get it rich enough. His carb builder suggested 90 degree elbows facing the air stream. In this case it was a drastic change. We went back 10 jet sizes. So I devised this for mine.

Doug

 

[Mike67]

I'm with Biomedtechguy...unless your competing for points who cares, scoops are bad ***...whether they drop a tenth or not.
Now the performance benefit depends on your setup like others have said...its part of the design and application. The big 3 installed them & they showed gains or at least reported them to, for the setups they designed. So did the pros, look at the history & development of the Pro Stock/ Top Sportsman type scoops over the last 40 years.
One size does not fit all and are pretty much tailored around the engine and aerodynamics of the car for maximum performance...kinda of like putting split dominators on a street car...more might not be better ( @HEMI-ITIS excluded) but the cool factor improvement is off the chart!!! Lol!!!

 

[Stroker68]

I run the hemi hood scoop. It's sealed to an air bell to the dominator. I'm also suspect that it's messing up the signal to the carb. It's just a hunch at this point but enough so that I have been researching hood scoops. Reading 33IMP's comment about his experience says lots to this.
On mine, it seems that from one run to the next I can feel momentary flat spots, lay over like, always around the top of 2nd gear, which is likely somewhere around 90 to 100 mph or so, it's noticeable in the seat and the tach. I've read that scoops that are open to the flat of the hood have turbulence and will push the air back out. Perhaps that is what I'm experiencing?
I've read that with the 6 pack scoops, having the bottom closed off / opening above, eliminated the turbulence problem and they work better.

6 pack hood scoops. Yeah...they work well when sealed up. Mine seemed to be a noticeable improvement anyway.

 

[33 IMP]

Deplorable Bill, are you kidding? There's thousands of backwards facing hoodscoops out there!
They're known as cowl (or cowl induction) scoops, and are seen on gm, mustangs, and even some mopars.

 

[Steve009]

On low profile hood scoops like the max wedge or the hemi scoops in the early 60s you are basically just giving the engine bay another way to eliminate some heat. It has been shown the there is too much turbulence near the front of the hood for the air to ram in through those thin slots. Much higher hood scoops or cowl hoods were invented to get the air bouncing off the windshield which actually feeds more air in. I have the hemi scoop on my 64 and it’s looks badass but I ain’t going any faster

 

[malex]

Deplorable Bill, are you kidding? There's thousands of backwards facing hoodscoops out there!
They're known as cowl (or cowl induction) scoops, and are seen on gm, mustangs, and even some mopars.

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That's a fact!

On low profile hood scoops like the max wedge or the hemi scoops in the early 60s you are basically just giving the engine bay another way to eliminate some heat. It has been shown the there is too much turbulence near the front of the hood for the air to ram in through those thin slots. Much higher hood scoops or cowl hoods were invented to get the air bouncing off the windshield which actually feeds more air in. I have the hemi scoop on my 64 and it’s looks badass but I ain’t going any faster

On low profile hood scoops like the max wedge or the hemi scoops in the early 60s you are basically just giving the engine bay another way to eliminate some heat. It has been shown the there is too much turbulence near the front of the hood for the air to ram in through those thin slots. Much higher hood scoops or cowl hoods were invented to get the air bouncing off the windshield which actually feeds more air in. I have the hemi scoop on my 64 and it’s looks badass but I ain’t going any faster

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I had a cowl hood on my legal 10.0 car. First pass of the season with it right off the trailer it went in the 9.90's. I changed over to the hemi hood scoop hood and problem solved, never seen another 9 second pass all season.

 

[33 IMP]

This thread has made me curious. I've got a dart raisin bran scoop on my car, and next time i take it out, im gonna block off the scoops with some racer tape, and see what happens. I know the scoops don't do s#!t as a ram air, but i bet it helps with cooler air under hood.

 

[malex]

This thread has made me curious. I've got a dart raisin bran scoop on my car, and next time i take it out, im gonna block off the scoops with some racer tape, and see what happens. I know the scoops don't do s#!t as a ram air, but i bet it helps with cooler air under hood.

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I hope I'm not the only one who has no idea what a raisin brand scoop is. Need a picture I guess. Ha.

 

[33 IMP]

Raisin bran... two scoops!

 

[malex]

Raisin bran... two scoops!

View attachment 852449

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LOL, Duh.. Exactly. Yeah that went right over my head. I've read that with the flat of the hood being blocked on your scoop style they are more effective. Looking forward to your results by taping them off.

 

[Ratbastard]

True cowl induction was my theory, cool air, cool fuel, 5 to 8% more air pressure at base of windshield depending on speed. Heat shield and phenolic riser to cut carb temp. Insulate and route fuel line away from motor. Incoming air always below 100 degrees, while engine bay in excess of 200 degrees. All pre dentonation is gone on 93 octane and more timing available. All outside air is now feeding from two four inch inlets to a filtered intake unit. Cool air, cool fuel= more power!

 

[33 IMP]

View attachment 852608 View attachment 852609 View attachment 852610 True cowl induction was my theory, cool air, cool fuel, 5 to 8% more air pressure at base of windshield depending on speed. Heat shield and phenolic riser to cut carb temp. Insulate and route fuel line away from motor. Incoming air always below 100 degrees, while engine bay in excess of 200 degrees. All pre dentonation is gone on 93 octane and more timing available. All outside air is now feeding from two four inch inlets to a filtered intake unit. Cool air, cool fuel= more power!

I see a G.M. part! SHAME on you!






Lol !