"Hooker Super Comps" What's up with the fit

[747mopar]

I've always had good luck with Hooker Super Comps but now that I'm building a Mopar not so much. I'm working on a charger and they don't fit worth a @$^*. The driver's side dumps right into the crossmember, not threw the exhaust opening. The passenger side in tight up against the 727 oil pan, I've been trying to bend it enough to where it doesn't touch with no luck so far. The driver's side I fixed by taking small pie shape cuts and then welding them back up to slightly angle it threw the opening. Never fails, whenever you want to get something done you find something else to take up all of your time. Maybe next weakend but I'm sure something else will get in the way.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Welcome to the world of Hooker headers on a Mopar. When installing Hookers, you will find that a ball peen hamer will be more handy than wrenches.

 

[Budnicks]

are they B-engine Low deck headers your trying make to go on a Tall deck RB-engine ?? or visa versa ?? I've never had good luck with Hookers ever, but the Super Comps were usually slightly better, than the street headers... I've modified almost every set of headers "except custom built headers" especially on B/RB Wedge Big Block Mopar's, TTI's & Dougs work & fit well, but aren't really true race headers either... I usually cut off the collectors at a minimum & install true merge/race 4-2-1 collectors & sometimes extentions too, my last set I used Flowmaster's $159 2" tube scavenger collectors from Summit Racing... Pain in the a$$ with starters & fit why can't "anyone" make a good quality, reasonably priced, well fitting, true "race header", with out all the issues for Mopar's...

 

[Cranky]

Been many years ago but I had a set of SC's on my 71 340 Cuda and they fit very well and I could even pull the starter without unbolting the header.....they even lasted for 15 years!

 

[fatecaptured]

I've always had good luck with Hooker Super Comps but now that I'm building a Mopar not so much. I'm working on a charger and they don't fit worth a @$^*. The driver's side dumps right into the crossmember, not threw the exhaust opening. The passenger side in tight up against the 727 oil pan, I've been trying to bend it enough to where it doesn't touch with no luck so far. The driver's side I fixed by taking small pie shape cuts and then welding them back up to slightly angle it threw the opening. Never fails, whenever you want to get something done you find something else to take up all of your time. Maybe next weakend but I'm sure something else will get in the way.

I ended up making a set of connectors from the collectors to the exhaust . The collectors on my hooker sc's didn't line up with the cross member cut outs either. But it wasn't to bad too make them work. I used them on my 440 w/ 727 in the 70 coronet. They dumped into a pypes 2 1/2 x pipe system.

 

[tallhair]

I've always had good luck with Hooker Super Comps but now that I'm building a Mopar not so much. I'm working on a charger and they don't fit worth a @$^*. The driver's side dumps right into the crossmember, not threw the exhaust opening. The passenger side in tight up against the 727 oil pan, I've been trying to bend it enough to where it doesn't touch with no luck so far. The driver's side I fixed by taking small pie shape cuts and then welding them back up to slightly angle it threw the opening. Never fails, whenever you want to get something done you find something else to take up all of your time. Maybe next weakend but I'm sure something else will get in the way.

I used Cyclone headers on my 70 RR RB block w/o incident and they lasted for a very long time ~10 to 15 years. As others have pointed out, headers for RB on a standard deck height (383/400) mopar BB or vice versa will present problems, the deck height and resulting angles/dimensions are the problem so make sure you are using a set for the right motor/deck height.

 

[696pack]

I started a thread about headers for my car but so far there have been no answers only comments like "if you cqan afford a stroker you can afford TTIs. Well I am not going to spend that kind of money on headers.

Has anyone installed a set of Summit or Headman headers on a 66-70 B body with 440 and power steering lately and what were the issues?

For years people have been complaining about Hooker, Headman and others about how their headers do not fit around the factory power steering. I would "think" that after all of these years the manufacturers would have made the appropriate changes but I have not bought a set of headers in about 10 years. Do you still have to "massage" the pipes around the power steering on off the shelf headers?

The 523 stroker in my 66 Charger came from another car I owned that I built-had intentions to run in F.A.S.T. I have already reduced the compression to 10.3 and the cam to a smaller hydraulic roller. Keep in mind I plan to drive this car daily.

My car has power steering and 2.5" exhaust and mini starter. Any suggestions on the best brand header to use/fit that is not rediculously priced like the TTIs I see everyone crowing about?

 

[Meep-Meep]

There are plenty of variables when it comes to headers. Meaning, I'm sure not every car is exactly alike in terms of engine placement, so cramming a bunch of separate tubes into a space normally occupied by manifolds I'm surprised they fit as well as they do.

I have always considered dinging headers with a hammer as part of the installation process. I have the 5209's in my 66 Bel and they fit OK. They are pretty close to the brake metering valve and lines so I just put that insulation stuff to keep things happy. On my 69 RR I am doing a trial fit with another set of 5209's (RB) and I am going to do some surgery to the offending pipe. I also plan to run the longer pitman and idler arms and with any luck I won't be redesigning the header too much. Maybe TTI's fit perfectly every time, but I don't want to spend nearly a grand on a set of bent up pipes when a few dings with a hammer on a cheaper set will get me there.

On my 68 RR I had Hedmans and no issues, but they were on a 383 and were 1.75" tubes. I also ran a set of 1.875" Hooker Comps on a 383 and they fit pretty well too.

By far the easiest headers I have ever installed were the Shelby style tri Y's on my 68 Mustang 302. They went right in through the top and I didn't even have to jack up the motor. 20 mins per side and I was putting bolts in. I don't think I even jacked up the car.

 

[747mopar]

are they B-engine Low deck headers your trying make to go on a Tall deck RB-engine ?? or visa versa ?? I've never had good luck with Hookers ever, but the Super Comps were usually slightly better, than the street headers... I've modified almost every set of headers "except custom built headers" especially on B/RB Wedge Big Block Mopar's, TTI's & Dougs work & fit well, but aren't really true race headers either... I usually cut off the collectors at a minimum & install true merge/race 4-2-1 collectors & sometimes extentions too, my last set I used Flowmaster's $159 2" tube scavenger collectors from Summit Racing... Pain in the a$$ with starters & fit why can't "anyone" make a good quality, reasonably priced, well fitting, true "race header", with out all the issues for Mopar's...

I totally understand what your saying, There is about a 3/4" difference in deck height. I double checked and all of they're headers on summits sight are listed for B & RB. I didn't have any issues upstream, plenty of room for the starter, factory power steering, plugs, I did however have to put my fast ratio pitman and idler arm on ebay "not enough room". I think if they weren't wrapped I'd already have the tranny clearance issue resolved but as of now they are just barely touching. I worked on them some more this afternoon and found another problem, well not a problem a dislike. They hang really low, I think as long as I turn the exhaust up and tuck it up tight to the bottom of the car the headers won't be to noticible "I hope". This will be getting a Pypes 3" stainless X pipe kit with homemade mufflers turning out in front of the tires.

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There are plenty of variables when it comes to headers. Meaning, I'm sure not every car is exactly alike in terms of engine placement, so cramming a bunch of separate tubes into a space normally occupied by manifolds I'm surprised they fit as well as they do.

I have always considered dinging headers with a hammer as part of the installation process. I have the 5209's in my 66 Bel and they fit OK. They are pretty close to the brake metering valve and lines so I just put that insulation stuff to keep things happy. On my 69 RR I am doing a trial fit with another set of 5209's (RB) and I am going to do some surgery to the offending pipe. I also plan to run the longer pitman and idler arms and with any luck I won't be redesigning the header too much. Maybe TTI's fit perfectly every time, but I don't want to spend nearly a grand on a set of bent up pipes when a few dings with a hammer on a cheaper set will get me there.

On my 68 RR I had Hedmans and no issues, but they were on a 383 and were 1.75" tubes. I also ran a set of 1.875" Hooker Comps on a 383 and they fit pretty well too.

By far the easiest headers I have ever installed were the Shelby style tri Y's on my 68 Mustang 302. They went right in through the top and I didn't even have to jack up the motor. 20 mins per side and I was putting bolts in. I don't think I even jacked up the car.

Hope you have better luck than me, the fast ratio pitman & idler arm wouldn't clear the headers on my car. Good luck

 

[696pack]

There are plenty of variables when it comes to headers. Meaning, I'm sure not every car is exactly alike in terms of engine placement, so cramming a bunch of separate tubes into a space normally occupied by manifolds I'm surprised they fit as well as they do.

I have always considered dinging headers with a hammer as part of the installation process. I have the 5209's in my 66 Bel and they fit OK. They are pretty close to the brake metering valve and lines so I just put that insulation stuff to keep things happy. On my 69 RR I am doing a trial fit with another set of 5209's (RB) and I am going to do some surgery to the offending pipe. I also plan to run the longer pitman and idler arms and with any luck I won't be redesigning the header too much. Maybe TTI's fit perfectly every time, but I don't want to spend nearly a grand on a set of bent up pipes when a few dings with a hammer on a cheaper set will get me there.

On my 68 RR I had Hedmans and no issues, but they were on a 383 and were 1.75" tubes. I also ran a set of 1.875" Hooker Comps on a 383 and they fit pretty well too.

By far the easiest headers I have ever installed were the Shelby style tri Y's on my 68 Mustang 302. They went right in through the top and I didn't even have to jack up the motor. 20 mins per side and I was putting bolts in. I don't think I even jacked up the car.

My thoughts as well but you would think that the maufactures that have been making ones that require hammering on would be listening to their customers and making som factory mods.

 

[747mopar]

I started a thread about headers for my car but so far there have been no answers only comments like "if you cqan afford a stroker you can afford TTIs. Well I am not going to spend that kind of money on headers.

Has anyone installed a set of Summit or Headman headers on a 66-70 B body with 440 and power steering lately and what were the issues?

For years people have been complaining about Hooker, Headman and others about how their headers do not fit around the factory power steering. I would "think" that after all of these years the manufacturers would have made the appropriate changes but I have not bought a set of headers in about 10 years. Do you still have to "massage" the pipes around the power steering on off the shelf headers?

The 523 stroker in my 66 Charger came from another car I owned that I built-had intentions to run in F.A.S.T. I have already reduced the compression to 10.3 and the cam to a smaller hydraulic roller. Keep in mind I plan to drive this car daily.

My car has power steering and 2.5" exhaust and mini starter. Any suggestions on the best brand header to use/fit that is not rediculously priced like the TTIs I see everyone crowing about?

I totally agree, the price they want for some of these headers are ridiculous. I looked at TTI because they have a reputation for fitting well on mopars but in the end I can't afford or should I say won't pay that much for a set of headers "THEY'RE HEADERS NOT JEWELERY" hell I wouldn't pay that much for that either. I'm not the one to give suggestions on headers, this my first one "Mopar that is".

 

[Meep-Meep]

Hope you have better luck than me, the fast ratio pitman & idler arm wouldn't clear the headers on my car. Good luck

Oh, I know I will have to do surgery. Question is how much.

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My thoughts as well but you would think that the maufactures that have been making ones that require hammering on would be listening to their customers and making som factory mods.

Especially the one pipe that sits right by the brake metering valve. We'll see what I end up with.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Funny thing I was just posting about a neighbors friends car and just remembered I looked at the motor mounts cuz the 383 looked a bit higher for some reason and noticed the mounts where not stock looked like Schumacher mounts and the headers where clear of the shock tower and power steering.

Maybe an idea different mounts?

 

[fatecaptured]

I totally agree, the price they want for some of these headers are ridiculous. I looked at TTI because they have a reputation for fitting well on mopars but in the end I can't afford or should I say won't pay that much for a set of headers "THEY'RE HEADERS NOT JEWELERY" hell I wouldn't pay that much for that either. I'm not the one to give suggestions on headers, this my first one "Mopar that is".

Yeah TTI is way out there on price.. But some of the others said, hammering is kinda a n necessary evil. I also ran into a problem with installing my headers on 452 heads. The heads I used had a casting lip at the top of the exhaust ports. Not sure if they all had this casting lip, but mine did. So after: raising the front end 2-3 feet in the air, unhooking the steering link and torsion bars. I bolted the headers up to the heads to discover that header flange was too wide and hit the lip on the heads. So I had to take them back out and grid the flanges down to make them fit. Along with dinging both headers at the sides to clear the torsion bars. But it was worth it to know I saved $500+ on the Hooker Super comps compared to the TTI's.

Now I have flow tech's on my 72 charger and they are resting on the ps gear box, so when I get around to it, they with be dinged up to fit as well.

The things we do for MOPOWER!!!

 

[Budnicks]

Schumacher's are great products that actually fit

Funny thing I was just posting about a neighbors friends car and just remembered I looked at the motor mounts cuz the 383 looked a bit higher for some reason and noticed the mounts where not stock looked like Schumacher mounts and the headers where clear of the shock tower and power steering.

Maybe an idea different mounts?

:iamwithstupid: Bigman, that's a damn good idea !!, Schumacher Creative Services , www.engine-swap.com , also has headers too, Tri-Y's also regular long tube style, they ain't cheap either thou, they do fit very well thou, they have special mounts & shims for mounts too... remember guys these ain't Chevy's were working on, that everything is a dime a dozen...LOL.. sometime you just get what you pay for you, cheap headers & crappy fit, go hand & hand on every make/model/brand of car, if you want quality parts in a Mopar vehicle type product, you will ultimately pay dearly for it.... TTI's, Schumacher's, Doug's, even some Doug Thorley's, then the cheaper Heddman's, Hooker's, Flowtech, or Summit & Jegs house bands etc., none are true race headers, even the ones that claim they are, if they have an exhaust flange to bolt up your exhaust system they are generic street/strip headers at best, will no doubt need to be modified more times than not, the 1st three are pricey, but also fit the best, usually are thicker flanges & thicker tubing also.... I just purchased all the stuff necessary to build a true set of "tuned race headers", hell the collectors are more than most cheap headers, all the parts alone, are well over the $691 base price of the TTI's 383175C chrome headers for a B-Body I had on my last 68 RR with a B-low deck stroker, with Edelbrock angle plug aluminum heads & a power rack & pinion box conversion.... they fit perfect too... I hated paying anyone that kind of price for headers also, but if you've ever built a set you know if you do it right & use mandrel tubing & thick flanges &, real 4-2-1 collectors, it cheaper to buy the TTI's or the Doug's already done, they won't make the same power but work very well, it's really hard to argue with the engineering & fit of the quality products, sometimes especially if you can't or won't do/build your own, you need to bite the bullet & step up to the higher priced headers, with far less fitments headaches, I know my time is worth allot to me, I don't want to spend 2 or 3 days on a crappy fitting cheap header, if I invest that much time I will just build a quality set... to each their own I know there are allot of different view & opinions, like *** holes everyone has one, on the subject of headers on a Mopar, that's mine...

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there's always also the option of shorty style headers offered by Heddman

 

[arsinist01]

When I was building a cuda a couple years ago, I was told more than once to avoid hooker headers. They just don't like mopars for some reason.

 

[747mopar]

Hear is a few pics. Like I said I have zero problems north of the collectors, all issues are where the pipes come together and dump out. You can see how the driver side is curved now, I thought that would be better then tight bends in the exhaust in order to dodge the crossmember. As you can see the starter has plenty of room (it's a mini) and although hard to see in the pic the steering box is fine as well. Before anyone says anything the trans lines aren't as close as they look in the pics, I might still install a heat shield.

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Sorry about the other pics, I don't know how that happened nor do I no how to remove them oh well.

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Sorry about the other pics, I don't know how that happened nor do I no how to remove them oh well.

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Sorry about the other pics, I don't know how that happened nor do I no how to remove them oh well.

 

[68ChargerAG]

I had Hooker Super Comps on my 68 Charger 383 BB and they hit both the pitman and idler arms bad. I tried to "make them fit" with hammers etc, but they always still hit and I could feel them in the steering. I finally yanked them out and installed Headman headers (long pipes) and they fit great with absolutely no hammering or modifications, I am very happy with them. They were quite a bit cheeper too... I wish I would have gone with Headman in the first place.

 

[rsd859]

I just found a crack in my drivers side manifold and im also shopping for some headers that will fit and clear everything without having to pound the headers flat. I dont have a mini starter and I dont want to buy one either until my big one breaks.

 

[696pack]

View attachment 99173View attachment 99175View attachment 99176Hear is a few pics. Like I said I have zero problems north of the collectors, all issues are where the pipes come together and dump out. You can see how the driver side is curved now, I thought that would be better then tight bends in the exhaust in order to dodge the crossmember. As you can see the starter has plenty of room (it's a mini) and although hard to see in the pic the steering box is fine as well. Before anyone says anything the trans lines aren't as close as they look in the pics, I might still install a heat shield.

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Sorry about the other pics, I don't know how that happened nor do I no how to remove them oh well.

- - - Updated - - -

Sorry about the other pics, I don't know how that happened nor do I no how to remove them oh well.

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Sorry about the other pics, I don't know how that happened nor do I no how to remove them oh well.

We have been speaking of several brands and tube sizes in this thread, what are yours????