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Hot starting drama!

68 Sport Satellite

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My car's hot starting issue is bugging the hell out of me! I gassed up the car on the way home and almost couldn't start it again. Last night and today I've been reading the forums like mad trying to get some ideas. I made a list of 10 possible things that could be going on. Last year I replaced all of the electrical items under the hood except for the alternator and firewall starter relay. I think maybe I should replace the starter relay and maybe the alternator diodes, which could be draining current, but I'm going to do some multimeter checks first.

I had set the carb with a vacuum gage and slightly backed it off after that before I took it in for paint 8 months ago. Before it was running rich. I'm no carb expert, but it runs pretty good now traffic and not a lot of smoke out the back, but it doesn't start as easily cold as it used to. I know that really rich carb used to start great when the motor was cold. Now, if it doesn't fire though, sometimes I'll get a big puff of smoke out from under the hood. Then it's really hard to start.

Most times in the morning on a cold start I pump the gas 3 times, pull the manual choke all the way out, crank it and usually it doesn't fire, so I crank it again with a little gas and it will fire most times, but sometimes it takes 3 or 4 tries. After it's hot, the only way I can get it to start again (whether it sits for 5 min or 2 hrs) is to leave my foot off the gas, crank the key and after 4 revs let go of the key. 7 out of 10 times it fires when I release the key. Sometimes it doesn't and when that happens, I'm lucky to get it started at all. When it happened yesterday at the gas station like that, I changed the battery to a new one and on the 2nd try after the flooded gas was cleared it fired. If the starter were sounding like it was struggling I would think for sure it's heat soak in the starter, but it sounds like it's spinning pretty good to me and then when I release the key it fires (which tells me the load from the starter requires release before the engine can fire?)

I also wrapped almost all of my fuel lines last year, but I still have a 4" section up by the carb inlet that could use some wrap.

I reach under the hood and touch my coil and WOW!! It is extremely hot. I'm sure that's not good.
My starter could be getting hot too and it's so close to the block (closer than to the headers which are wrapped) that I couldn't get a heat shield in there, but this aluminum/fiberglass heat wrap I have fits, but I'm worried about trapping heat. A shield would be better.

By the way, this is a small block 360 motor with a high torque mini-starter (not sure of the brand. It's all painted over and was in the car when I got it.) Funny thing is, last year with this same starter the car started cold great, but had problems starting hot. Back then I addressed vapor lock fuel issues and had the headers wrapped, added a 1/2" plastic carb spacer under the Edelbrock 600, and placed heat sleeves over 80% of the fuel lines in the engine bay. A few months later, the starter spun and spun without engaging when it was hot, then I let it sit and it finally fired the car. I took it out that day and had the thing rebuilt. Ever since then, when the car is hot it only starts when I release the key. Gotta be related right?

Any ideas from the symptoms I'm describing? I think I just need to get in there and do process of elimination.
 
It almost sounds like the ballast is breaking down. I have seen them where the element gets "fried" but still makes contact. What you describe when you turn it 4 times, release the key and it fires, sounds maybe like the ballast resistor. It has a 12V source when it's in the start position so that the ignition is supplied a full 12V when starting. If the ballast is not conducting 100%, that could be your problem. It's certainly cheap enough to throw at it and see.
 
I think maybe I should replace the starter relay and maybe the alternator diodes, which could be draining current,.

Please don't start throwing more parts at it and hope. If the car can sit for a week and the battery stays up, the diodes are not "draining." If the starter cranks when you twist the key, there's nothing wrong with the relay.

Do some basic troubleshooting.

Turn the key to "run" engine off.

IF you have a breaker points distributor, make sure the points are closed. To check, hook your test light or multimeter to the coil NEG terminal and ground. Bump the engine until the light goes dim/ out, or the multimeter goes "low."

Clip your multimeter to the battery POSITIVE post and to the "key" side of the ballast. One place to access this point is the IGN terminal of the voltage regulator (the "push on" connector.) Don't disconnect it, simply packprobe it.

What you are hoping for is an very LOW reading, and you don't want to see over .3V (three TENTHS of one volt) What you are reading here is the voltage drop from the battery, through the harness, and to the ignition buss. (IGN 1, "ignition run", dark blue)

If this reading is higher than .3, you need to find the drop. Your top suspects are the bulkhead connector, the ignition switch connector, the switch, the ammeter and terminals, and in rare cases, the under dash welded splice.


NEXT test to see if your starting bypass circuit is OK (Referred to by Mopar as IGN2) This bypass circuit is brown, comes from a separate contact in the ignition switch, goes through the bulkhead, and to the coil + side of the ballast. It's job, during start, is to supply hot battery voltage for a hot starting spark.

So clip your meter to the coil POS terminal, and battery POSITIVE. Crank the engine USING THE KEY. You cannot run this test by jumpering the start relay. Once again, you are hoping for a low reading. If this is over .3-.4V, again, look for the drop. Your top suspects are:

wiring changes have left it disconnected!!!!!!!!!
bad bulkhead terminal
bad ignition switch connector terminal
bad ignition switch.


AND you may have multiple problems, including vapor lock/ fuel boil problems. On my Dart the things which helped are:

went to rear mount electric pump
ran a vapor recovery system
bought a carb insulator spacer (which O'Reallys carries) under the carb

Mine may crank for 5 or more seconds on some very hot heat soaks, but it always starts, and after a few seconds, runs normally
 
Awesome. Thanks for the detailed info. I'm confirmed I have no spark coming out of coil.
 
Holy cow! I've got a voltage reading of -12.5V connecting to battery and voltage regulator with key in on position. So I have a voltage leak?
 
Whoops - I took that earlier reading with the key in the off position. I re-measured with key in the on non-running position and am now getting -1.4V. Definitely some kind of voltage drop going on.

I took the car in towards the middle of the day to one of my regular mechanics and he has determined that there is no spark coming out of the coil in the cranking position, but there is spark coming out in the run position. He's going to take more readings tomorrow to trace down the issue. High on the suspect list right now is bulkhead connector, ampmeter, or ignition switch under the dash.

We measured voltage across the fuseable link at the firewall engine side bulkhead connector and are getting 0.18V just there. Not sure if that is correct or not.

By the way, my ballast resistor is a 1-ohm 2 prong that I replaced less than 500 miles ago. It is wired the way it was when I bought the car, which is a bit suspect given the rats nest I originally found under the dash before I had an nice original dash harness installed. Anyway, this 2 prong ballast has 4 total leads coming off of it, 2 on each side. Is this correct? I haven't traced where each one goes yet, but one of them for sure goes to the positive side of the coil.
 
One "trick" you can do to help determine if this is a wiring / harness problem or an ignition system problem is to "hot wire" the ignition by running a good heavy clip lead directly from a batteyr source (like the starter relay stud) to the coil + terminal. You should now get nice big spark if the ignition is OK. Don't run it for long this way, as that bypasses the coil resistor

The 1.4v if you measured it correctly ---- on lead on the battery (starter relay stud, or battery post) and the other lead on the "high" (key) side of the ballast OR at the voltage regulator IGN terminal. DEFINATELY shows a big big drop in the harness wiring.

The circuit path this follows is:

From the battery, -- fuse link -- through bulkhead (on red ammeter wire) through ammeter -- to "in harness splice" -- to ignition switch connector -- through switch -- back out switch -- (on dark blue "ignition run" or IGN 1 -- back out switch connector -- back out bulkhead connector --

to regulator IGN terminal

and one side of ballast
 
I've had this problem before. The second you let off the key you will hear the engine fire. One time it was the starter relay, one time it was the ignition switch itself. There is a switch diagnostic test somewhere. Try "Google" search. You can pull the ignition harness apart under the dash to preformed the test. If you would happen to have a spare starter relay to swap out you could tell if that's your prob. It's one or the other...
 
I think I may have solved my problem. After some research on the slantsix forum and a few other mopar sites found on google, I think I have a 5 prong ECU wired up to a 2 terminal ballast resistor, but with 4 PRONG WIRING. Whoever owned the car before installed the chrome box and 2 prong ballast, but then plugged in 4 wires to the 2 prong ballast. Could that be why my coil is so hot and not giving spark in cranking mode?

I will confirm tomorrow if I have the correct 4 prong ECU to go with the single 2 prong ballast and then confirm that the wiring to the ballast is correct.
Hope to have this solved by tomorrow. I hope I didn't fry my new ECU and coil by not noticing this sooner...
 
Most new ECUs are 4 pin. You cannot tell by looking. Some brands of ECU HAVE 5 pins, but the 5th is not hooked up

You have to use a meter on the 5th pin to determine if it's hooked up

Here's the 4 and 5 pin diagrams:

What is NOT shown in these diagrams is the brown bypass circuit (IGN2) which would hook to the bottom terminal of the 2 pin resistor, and the bottom right terminal of the 4 pin resistor.

You can use a 4 pin ECU with a 2 or 4 pin resistor, but a 5 pin ECU REQUIRES a 4 pin resistor

Ignition_System_4pin.jpg


Ignition_System_5pin.jpg
 
The car is starting and running great now! Thanks for all of your input.

The chrome box ECU I have is a 4 wire and a 2 prong ballast resistor. The problem was that "the ignition 1" cranking side of the ballast on the left did not have a connection going to the coil positive side. I took it to my go-to mechanic Friday and he couldn't figure it out at first either, but then after I provided him the schematics for both 2 prong and 4 prong ballast resistor systems, he identified the issue.

That one wire from the ballast to the coil now provides excellent starting (duh!) and the coil is not quite as hot now since the it's now seeing the slightly lesser than 12V voltage after the ballast.
 
I had very hard starting on R/T hot. Turned out the crank voltage wire to the coil was very frayed at the bulkhead connector. It turns out it was starting only because a plug would fire after the key hit run and provided plug volts at just the right time. Much worse hot then cold-but the leaner hot mix was harder to light. All theory, but the symptoms bear the theory out. The car starts instantly, as in barely hear the starter, now that the wire has been replaced. This on a single point distributor.
 
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