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How about this as far as for the street?

Bens69PlymouthSatellite

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first before u guys get really annoyed w/ me let me explain I am no mechanic,and not a math wizard either,my so called mechanics were alot of talk and no action they talked me into pursuing my dream car then when i baught it they bailed on me,sticking me alone with this project,which I plan to see through to the end even if it makes my hair gray,with some of your input i wanted to run this buy u,would this work better for the street?Im looking at mechanical roller cams,lift.550,duration 288 in/ex and 243/[email protected] 110 lobe sep.stock bore flat top pistons,federal mogul,Ohio crank/rods,eddy torker 2 intake holley 770 cfm carb,eddy heads 210cc intake port vol.70cc, ex.port vol. valve size 2.14 intake,1.81 ex.84 cc chamber volume, 8.75 rear end 4.10 gear,2800to3200 stall torque converter,tf727 trans,sorry to be annoying im gonna be starting this rebuild soon and im scared shitless of blowing this engine to pieces,not only that when it runs i dont want it to run like a bucket o ****,any help would be better than no help thanks a ton!
 
If you have power brakes, expect to have to get something to provide vacuum for the booster. The engine itself sounds like it's going to be a good one, and the stall convertor matches up pretty good with the cam.

Yeah , I would be more "street friendly" with manual brakes.
 
Sounds pretty good, if your buying new pistons anyway I would go .030" over. Have the rotating assembly balanced. Use all new ARP fastners its cheap insurance and quality gaskets. Are you buying a new crank because your stock one is bad? because the stock forged crank and LY rods would work great if reconditioned. If your buying a new crank & rods because you just want to I would go with a long stroke like 4.15". Thats just my thinking, I have used new stuff on builds also, because I wanted to not need it. Good luck
 
Im trying to keep the lowest compression possible...

supposedly the engine i have is a ready to run 440 built awhile ago by an older guy who became ill and sold the engine to the engineer i got it from its just that i havent fired it up yet,supposedly its never been bored or stroked so i would like to keep the bottom end the same,Im only probably gonna build the bottom of the engine because it just seems like good insurance,i wanna keep the compression as low as possible so i can run pump gas and keep the car streetable,if i have to then ill bore the engine over .030 over most likely,can u recommend a brake system ,I would probably wanna go with mechanical brakes, disc preferably also if i use thicker head gaskets that would keep my compression a little lower to right?
 
So this is an older rebuild and never ran? A trained eye should look this over before you go crazy buying parts.

You can't have it both ways. A hot cam goes with high compression. Your combo listed above sounds good with 10:1 or better but if you go with lower compression and keep the big cam you won't get the full potential out of the engine. Check with the cam manufacturer and get their recommendation for compression.

To answer your question, yes, a thicker head gasket will essentially increase the volume of the chamber and this will lower compression by a half point or so.
 
the original owner ran it a few times.

The old man that owned the engine put it in an old custom hot rod ran it several times,ultimately deciced it was way to much engine for the car pulled the engine and it went into his garage back on the engine stand,which then was sold to the engineer i baught it from,not sure I know the engineer is a very well respected engine builder,very notorious for being very picky with the engines he builds or buys he told me just get a carb and a new starter,change the little **** that needs to be done and shes ready to rock,im just preparing for a rebuild for a worst case scenario,I should probably go with an 870 cfm carb would probably be better right?
 
what if i used a hydraulic cam?

what if i used a hydraulic roller cam instead of mechanical roller,with a lift of .538 to .541 224 to 230 at .050 with like a duration of 274/282 or 280/288 i read the benefit of a hydraulic cam is that u dont have to constantly adjust it like the mechanical cam but i heard u do lose a little low end torque with hydraulic but would those cam sizes be more suitable?
 
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