How do I remove the control arms correctly on my 67 Charger?

[Dean Prevolos]

I attempted to dismantle my front end this past weekend so I can get new bushings pressed into my control arms and also replace the other front end components. I have had many BBodies forum members send me replies to remove the torsion bars, watched videos on removing the to Torsion Bars, bought the Mancini Racing Torsion Bar removal "tool" and was ready to go this past weekend. But I couldn't even get the torsion bar adjuster to move, after setting up on jack stands. I also removed the top shock fastener and placed a floor jack under the lower control arm to remove some tension. Each time I would try to raise the lower control arm, so I could remove the control arms, the whole car lifted up. What am I doing wrong???

 

[Kern Dog]

Don't place the jack near the pivot point or the middle. Place the floor jack as far to the lower ball joint as possible. Basic leverage at work there.

 

[F4R/T]

Just be sure to have torsion bar completely unloaded... I’m not be a smarty pants either. The bolt must be unwound, take the strut rod nut off, you can split the knuckle or unbolt the ball joint, remove the shock too, remove the t bar lock clip, slide the boot off the socket and go forward with the boot. With bar unwound , loosen the lower control arm pivot bolt, leave but on, take a brass hammer and give it a fair tap and the bar should pop out really easy. I’m not looking at my car but if I missed something folks just fill in the blanks please I’m not perfect. I could see maybe moving the arm a little to help alignment issues with a jack but I don’t think it should be much I’ve never had any problems getting them out and I’m not saying it won’t happen. Good luck

 

[wahya]

I'm no expert, but i have read a lot of info on this site and looked at videos. I watched my neighbor install the a body arms that I bought on this site. I redid the work myself with b body arms. I fail to see the advantage of putting more tension on the tb by lift the arms. I also didn't see any mention of taking the bumpstops off to allow droop. Maybe those adjusters are rusted and need some penetrating oil.

 

[Don Frelier]

Maybe those adjusters are rusted and need some penetrating oil.

Step one is to get the adjusters backed off completely.
A good breaker bar or 1/2" impact and some oil should do it.
I just jack up the car and support it elsewhere, not under the control arms.
Removing the lower control arm bushings is not an easy task. (just an FYI)

 

[dadsbee]

Why are you putting a jack under the LCA??? That is what you are trying to unload and you're adding load by lifting it. Jack under the front of the frame, LCA's all the way down. Remove the upper bump stops nut while the rubber is jammed, lift the LCA back up and remove rubber bump stop. LCA fully down again, then back out the torsion bar adjuster until it's fully loose. Then the Torsion Bars will come out. Then you have to remove the nut/washer/bushing off the front of the LCA strut, the nut/washer off the LCA pivot shaft and pending what you want to pull out separate or assembled you'll have to pop some ball joint studs and tie rod end studs.

 

[F4R/T]

I have never needed a Jack but I’ve seen it done for some strange reason ... it’s playing with fire in my book, I shouldn’t have even mentioned it in my last post ... I almost wonder if it’s because that socket issues ?

 

[dadsbee]

Only use of a jack or lift is to hold the car frame. Nothing, as I noted, should be under the LCA.

 

[Charger Dana]

My knowledge is limited, so I rely on manuals. That’s not a pleasant job, but you need the right tools. I followed the manual and it worked fine. Big hammer!
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

 

[Dean Prevolos]

My knowledge is limited, so I rely on manuals. That’s not a pleasant job, but you need the right tools. I followed the manual and it worked fine. Big hammer!
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

I have the Mopar service manual and I did set the jacks under the frame. I am unable to turn the torsion bar adjuster counter-clockwise with my breaker bar. I sparyed penetrating oil on the threads and will try again this weekend. Thanks.

 

[F4R/T]

Soak it down with Kroil, be sure to go forward and backward if it seems stuck and lots of kroil that’s the best stuff I know of. A good impact with a six point socket will be your best friend , you don’t have to zip it out in one shot either take your time ... it’s not a bad job to do just time consuming

 

[Dean Prevolos]

Thank you for the advise, will do.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

Only use of a jack or lift is to hold the car frame. Nothing, as I noted, should be under the LCA.

Thanks, I have the jack stands on the car frame.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

Why are you putting a jack under the LCA??? That is what you are trying to unload and you're adding load by lifting it. Jack under the front of the frame, LCA's all the way down. Remove the upper bump stops nut while the rubber is jammed, lift the LCA back up and remove rubber bump stop. LCA fully down again, then back out the torsion bar adjuster until it's fully loose. Then the Torsion Bars will come out. Then you have to remove the nut/washer/bushing off the front of the LCA strut, the nut/washer off the LCA pivot shaft and pending what you want to pull out separate or assembled you'll have to pop some ball joint studs and tie rod end studs.

Thanks for the detailed description, I will go at it again this weekend.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

Step one is to get the adjusters backed off completely.
A good breaker bar or 1/2" impact and some oil should do it.
I just jack up the car and support it elsewhere, not under the control arms.
Removing the lower control arm bushings is not an easy task. (just an FYI)

Thank you Don.

 

[Kevin Bisgrove]

One of my adjusters was seized. Soaked the crap out of it and tried everything. Couldn't budge it with an impact or 3' breaker bar.
Now I need a new one!
I was able to get the t bars out even so. Must have been just loose enough.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

Yesterday I was able to remove the torsion bars. It took 2 weekends to soak the adjusters and a breaker bar to break them after 53 years. Then I used my impact socket to back off the adjuster, going in and out several times (as F4R/T suggested) to get the adjuster to back off nicely. Then I clamped the torsion bar removal tool I purchased at Mancini Racing and was able to hammer out. NOW I NEED TO REMOVE THE UPPER CONTROL ARMS.

 

[Kern Dog]

I suggest that you replace the UPPER ball joints with the upper control arms in place. The car holds the control arms still while you unscrew them.

 

[Kevin Bisgrove]

I suggest that you replace the UPPER ball joints with the upper control arms in place. The car holds the control arms still while you unscrew them.

I agree. Ask me how I know!

 

[Don Frelier]

Agreed, remove the upper ball joint, remove the upper arms, install new bushings clean paint etc.
Reinstall arms and thread in the new ball joints.
The lower bushings are the tough ones.
You did start soaking the cam bolts on the upper control arms?
I should have a couple good adjusters.
PM me if you are interested and I'll look for them.