How do you remove the axle end play adjuster on an 8 3/4" axle shaft?

[Kern Dog]

I have a few spare axle shafts on my rack in the shop...

The only reason that I saved most of them is because they have the right side adjusters on them. Only 4 of the 17 shafts are the 68-70 B body length so I'd like to see about removing the bearings and flanges of the other ones here using my Harbor Freight press. I checked YouTube but didn't see any videos of anyone doing this on an 8 3/4 axle.
I was told that the adjusters were not available new, this is why I saved these shafts. Am I wrong about that?
Do you have a way to safely remove the adjusters? I've seen that some people use a cutoff wheel to cut the bearings off, does the adjuster then just slide off? I've never done this before, I've just taken axle shafts to the shop and the guy I've used is retiring.

 

[Demonic]

You have to be careful not to nick the adjuster. I'd skip the press myself. You need a big chisel. Hit the retaining collar ( innermost part of bearing assembly ) 4X HARD at 90* apart. It should expand and slide off. Cut the bearing cage with side cutters and remove the rollers. Now there's just the outer race. Cut two grooves 180* apart, not all the way through. Hit it again on the groove with the chisel, the race should crack without nicking the shaft.

 

[vance.dykes]

you could use heat one of those that are a coil to heat the baring so it will fall off if done right. yes i have used a chisel to crack the barring inner race by cutting a v in the lower barring race then smack it with a hammer and it will crack the race so it will fall off or replace with the rp-400 barring and no need for adjuster.

 

[493 Mike]

You have to be careful not to nick the adjuster. I'd skip the press myself. You need a big chisel. Hit the retaining collar ( innermost part of bearing assembly ) 4X HARD at 90* apart. It should expand and slide off. Cut the bearing cage with side cutters and remove the rollers. Now there's just the outer race. Cut two grooves 180* apart, not all the way through. Hit it again on the groove with the chisel, the race should crack without nicking the shaft.

Inner.
Mike

 

[toolmanmike]

I have a few spare axle shafts on my rack in the shop...

View attachment 1763256

The only reason that I saved most of them is because they have the right side adjusters on them. Only 4 of the 17 shafts are the 68-70 B body length so I'd like to see about removing the bearings and flanges of the other ones here using my Harbor Freight press. I checked YouTube but didn't see any videos of anyone doing this on an 8 3/4 axle.
I was told that the adjusters were not available new, this is why I saved these shafts. Am I wrong about that?
Do you have a way to safely remove the adjusters? I've seen that some people use a cutoff wheel to cut the bearings off, does the adjuster then just slide off? I've never done this before, I've just taken axle shafts to the shop and the guy I've used is retiring.

Nice rack! Oh, this isn't the Blue Forum!

 

[R413]

Yes remove the collar then the bearing and the adjuster or flat plate on other side will slide right off.

Cut cage remove rollers then press off the inner bearing race.

All this cutting and chisel work is time consuming, use the press, that's why you have it.

The FSM goes over this bearing procedure in detail.

 

[ckessel]

As the brethren have said, need to remove the pressed on items to get the retainer/adjusters off. Yukon gear does have new ones available though. I'm looking at grabbing a set of those as the used have been elusive for me unless I grab a pair of shafts I have no need for. Can be had on Amazon too. Also they do have a pack with Set 7 Timkens. Only thing missing is the lock tab but a handy/crafty type could make one.

Yukon Rear Axle Bearing and Seal Kit for Chrysler | AK C8.75-AX-ADJ | Yukon Gear & Axle

Yukon Rear Axle Bearing and Seal Kit for Chrysler | AK C8.75-OEM-COMPLETE | Yukon Gear & Axle

 

[Kern Dog]

I have a few shafts on the rack that measure 30 1/8" and 30 3/4". Those are way too wide for the 68-70 B and any A body so they must have been from a C or E body, maybe a 71-72 B, right?
I never memorized the axle shaft lengths for the different chassis letters A-B-C-D.