How to splice in...

[67SniperHockey]

Hey guys - electrical not my forte but not afraid to tackle it. Should be easy install - auto meter electrical temp gauge.

What’s the best way to “splice” into my headlight switch and my ignition switch? 67 Coronet.

Thank you guys!!

 

[Crackedback]

If the gauge is near your radio, look for an orange wire in the radio plug. That is usually the lighting wire under dash (Orange)

There might also be a loose plug if the car is a console car for lighting the shift indicator plate.

 

[67SniperHockey]

When I find the correct wire - will a T-Tap Connector suffice? Or should I just expose wire and wrap new wire around, solder, tape it up and call it good. Or anyone have any other recommendations for a clean install?

Thanks!

 

[funknut]

Tap connector is fine, they are easily hidden. Just a suggestion, but you may not want to wire directly to your gauge cluster harness because you would have to disconnect the temp gauge to remove the cluster. Radio has 12v switched and lighting, signal wire from the temp sender and ground to the dash frame and you are golden.

 

[hunt2elk]

If you find the orange wire that Crackedback mentioned, it will usually have a spot for another wire. It will take a "bullet end" for lack of a better description.

 

[67SniperHockey]

Tap connector is fine, they are easily hidden. Just a suggestion, but you may not want to wire directly to your gauge cluster harness because you would have to disconnect the temp gauge to remove the cluster. Radio has 12v switched and lighting, signal wire from the temp sender and ground to the dash frame and you are golden.

I would like to keep the factory temp gauge operational - and hook up my aftermarket gauge. So really - I just need to find a hot wire for the lighting, and a hot wire for the power. So I could use and tap into the orange radio wire 2x for both purposes do you guys think? Orange wire is readily visible as I am missing my radio - ha.

 

[70chall440]

The orange wire should be present regardless of the presence of the radio.

 

[funknut]

Orange wire will only provide power when the cluster lights are on, so you should find 12v switched (should be red wire to the radio) for power and use orange for the lighting.

 

[67SniperHockey]

So find the red wire and plug into that for power - and orange for light since it will only be lit when I turn the headlights on. Sound correct?

Thanks guys!

And should both of these red and orange wires be in the cluster behind the clock/amp meter gauges? Right next to the hole where the radio would be...

 

[Demonic]

T connectors suck. I'm not a fan, they're not durable, not high amp and lead to the copper oxidizing in the middle of the wire from the hole. I like to add to the constant hot buss bar in the fuse block with a piggyback terminal.

 

[Crackedback]

He asked about lighting and power, orange is for lighting... How he grabs power, prefer a wire that is on in run rather than also when acc is switched.

Agree on the T-taps, not a great method. They work, but have other issues as mentioned. Or grab a spade connector, crimp two wires into it and make a Y set up to continue feeding the original item and have a loose wire for the gauge. Plenty of ways to skin a cat here.

 

[67SniperHockey]

T connectors suck. I'm not a fan, they're not durable, not high amp and lead to the copper oxidizing in the middle of the wire from the hole. I like to add to the constant hot buss bar in the fuse block with a piggyback terminal.

View attachment 992237

I like that idea. Does it matter which hot buss bar for power to connect to?
Thanks!

 

[Demonic]

Does it matter which hot buss bar for power to connect to?

Usually - there is two or three on the input side of the fuse block, one switched side and one constant side. Later cars with three inputs in the fuse block - the single small one is from the instrument voltage regulator, out to the gauge set. As others mentioned - orange is switched hot through the headlight switch. Often the factory has a spare open tap on an orange wire. A male bullet connector works on later cars, after 72-ish. A test meter is your friend here.

 

[67SniperHockey]

Got wire to sender run and ground. Also have ground near gauge. Now I just have the 2 wires to run - one for the light and other to power.

Are these the orange (light) and red (power) wires I need to tap into for my electrical temp gauge? I started the car and did a test meter to the red wire and good - and then flipped headlights on and orange wire end then lit up - so assuming these are the 2 I should tap into?

I then touched the wires - power to the red and gauge works as it should. Then touched the light wire to the orange (with headlights on) and gauge lit up.

Going to add a 3amp inline fuse to the power wire, clean all the connections up and should be good to go!

Thanks for all the help guys - always appreciated and helps a guy think things through especially when I don't do this type of stuff every day.

 

[YY1]

There are usually 2 or more unused orange wires under the dash.

Maybe even one with a 3 way bullet connector socket.

Orange should be used for the power to the light on the gauge only, because it is switched (and fused) with the other instrument lights.

 

[YY1]

The other wire comes from the temp sender.

I don't think it needs any other power. Just a ground, which will come from the mount and/or the light.

 

[67SniperHockey]

I got everything "working" - however it is inconsistent. When I wiggle the fuse block - power cuts in and out for the lights. My dome light goes on and off depending upon how I move the fuse block with my hand (I unbolted it from the dash undermount to do the wiring), and the LED light on the gauge sometimes works and sometimes doesn't - although the headlights themselves stay on all the time....

So any tips of what to use to clean all the connections?

Thanks!

 

[67SniperHockey]

Got it. Water, baking soda, tooth brush, and some dialectic grease. On to the next project!