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How Wide Is Your Tire/Wheel Combo On The 69 Cornet Sedan?

I don't know what he is using, but 15x10 with 5" backspace are out there. Steel from aero 50 or Bassett are very reasonable, some aluminum seem to be custom, and vary between expensive and outrageous.
You can go to summit, specify wheels 15x10 with five inch backspace (narrow search results buttons). 10 pages worth when I tried it, but I didn't narrow the search with boltpattern.
(Saw a TT2 15X10 with 5" bs at summit, polished,.....,but almost $500 ea.)
Thanks!!

Yes, I've stumbled across some but they're mostly very modern-looking. My 1969 Bee was purchased as a racecar and I'm trying to put it back close to what it was - but I don't like the ET Drag slot wheels that were on it. So, it need to look like something that was around in the '70's.

I just found steel wheels, 15x10 with 5.5 backspacing. $249 each!! Ouch!
 
Ah, sweet! I'll look into that. Thanks!
I have custom backspaced Cragar 61's on my car as well. Unfortunately Cragar has had the custom shop closed for a couple of years now.
 
I have custom backspaced Cragar 61's on my car as well. Unfortunately Cragar has had the custom shop closed for a couple of years now.
American racing's custom shop is still open, as far as I know.
I had some 15x12s done with minimum backspace a couple years ago. They weren't cheap then, ($800 the pair, if I remember right), I think they are about 50% more now, just like everything in this political regime.
Honestly, except for some aero 50s or Bassett Nascar stocker-looking steelies, a stock looking steel wheel that can take a Mopar hubcap at 15x10 with a 5" backspace for $250 ain't bad.
Racecar grade 15x10s with custom backspace and double beadlocks can run $1500 EACH!
 
I had sent my wheels to Stockton wheels to get the backspacing changed. It was about $275 for everything.
 
Do you know anyone with machinist skills ? I have built quite a few steel wheels in the past, making them both wider and narrower, as well as changing the centers and moving the back spacing. I usually can get the runout tolerances to plus or minus .010", which was way better than most factory wheels. I then mount the wheels on an old snap-on balance machine and find the heavy spot of the wheel, which will end up settling on the bottom, as the bar the wheel is mounted on rolls on four sealed bearings. I then add "spots" of weld on the inside of the wheel at the "light" side until I can position the wheel at any place, and it will not move in any direction. This makes for easier balancing of the tire. If using a bolt in valve stem, it can be installed as well to see how much it affects the heavy side of the wheel. This sounds more difficult than it really is, but I possess more than 50 years of machinist skills, as well as having access to lathes and a bridgeport, so your mileage will vary. :drinks:
 
Are 4dr and 2dr different? 29.5x 10.5" slicks with 8.5" rims with 5" backspace fit my 69 Coronet. You need backspacing to make it work
 
Are 4dr and 2dr different? 29.5x 10.5" slicks with 8.5" rims with 5" backspace fit my 69 Coronet. You need backspacing to make it work
Yep. compare rear wheelwell opening shapes, in post #1 and #17. That's why the op specifically asked about a four door.
 
Yep. compare rear wheelwell opening shapes, in post #1 and #17. That's why the op specifically asked about a four door.
Are the wheel tubs different? Wheel Arch is more like a roadrunner I guess
 
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