Orig69
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Hurst shifter - long throw
- Thread starter AR67GTX
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No. If you look at the picture in my first post it’s straight. Looks like the one in the top of your picture. I wish it had a slight bend towards the driver to fall a little more at hand. Could be part of the adaptation to the Hurst shifter body but from dadsbee’s comments it’s probably just like his Inland shifter.
The description in my first post is not correct. It’s a stock Inland shifter arm/stick. The Hurst body is modified with a welded on foot to accept the stock shifter arm. My Ford is the same way - modified Hurst body with a stock Ford shifter arm/stick.
The description in my first post is not correct. It’s a stock Inland shifter arm/stick. The Hurst body is modified with a welded on foot to accept the stock shifter arm. My Ford is the same way - modified Hurst body with a stock Ford shifter arm/stick.
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gtx6970
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I drove a 67 4spd car a month or so ago.
Buckets , non console. And 3rd was over there. But I dont remember it being too abnormal for me to reach it ( Im 5.10 )
It has the stock OE Inland shifter
Buckets , non console. And 3rd was over there. But I dont remember it being too abnormal for me to reach it ( Im 5.10 )
It has the stock OE Inland shifter
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Console shift handle has a longer dog leg in it.. and puts it even further OVER there !
Vinny
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Inland. He has a HURST SHIFTER MECHANISM, with a repro Inland handle. That is what I understood from the OP.
To follow up on this I ordered a Hurst installation kit with rods, swivels and transmission levers. After further investigation I discovered the bolt I was seeing up inside the hump in the tunnel was not a shift stop bolt. The Hurst shifters that Brewers converts are rebuilt OEM Hurst shifters that lack the 3/4 gear stop bolts. Apparently the shifter levers in the units are not standard Hurst a competition Plus levers either. And apparently they are intended to use all the stock Inland rods and transmission levers.
The Hurst 1/2 and 3/4 levers/rods hooked up OK although I had to bend the 3/4 rod some to clear. But the shifter reverse lever is drilled to a smaller size and the reverse rod would not fit it much less a rod bushing. After thinking about it I decided I didn’t want to pull the shifter and try and drill it out as it is probably hardened steel. So I carefully ground and filed down the reverse rod end until it snugly fit in the lever hole. I put a stainless steel washer on both sides of the lever with a G clip and it was good and tight. I also put a thin SS washer under all the other rod and swivel pins before the G clip so compared to the old Inland rods it’s super tight and precise now.
Shifter action is definitely tighter with less slop and I think shifter throw is just a bit shorter but not significantly. That was the one disappointment - I hoped the throw would be shorter yet. But still an improvement.
The Hurst 1/2 and 3/4 levers/rods hooked up OK although I had to bend the 3/4 rod some to clear. But the shifter reverse lever is drilled to a smaller size and the reverse rod would not fit it much less a rod bushing. After thinking about it I decided I didn’t want to pull the shifter and try and drill it out as it is probably hardened steel. So I carefully ground and filed down the reverse rod end until it snugly fit in the lever hole. I put a stainless steel washer on both sides of the lever with a G clip and it was good and tight. I also put a thin SS washer under all the other rod and swivel pins before the G clip so compared to the old Inland rods it’s super tight and precise now.
Shifter action is definitely tighter with less slop and I think shifter throw is just a bit shorter but not significantly. That was the one disappointment - I hoped the throw would be shorter yet. But still an improvement.
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