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Hypothetical question about cam rpm range and seat of the pants feel

Yeah it seems that going with the stealths would be a win-win for me...I get a stock appearing engine that runs more efficiently due to the aluminum and closed chambers. However, I have read that the quality control on these heads can be questionable. What kind of things do I need to out for after receiving them?...or is this a job best left to a machinist?

440 source heads now uses comp cams retainers and locks. It not a real big issue now.

Another alternative is the Speedmaster casting called "Sidewinders" which is sold by Hughes, Moparts Racing, HP Engines, Don Garlits/CPPA Performance, ProMaxx. For $1200 they flow 20-25 cfm more than OOTB 440 source heads.

If you are using 3/8" pushrods you'll have to do some clearancing. Most people give in and by custom 5/16" pushrods from smith brothers out here in Oregon.
 
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I'm not sure that's correct Banzaiii. According to the Source website the Comp stuff is still an upcharge for parts and labor.
Crockett - my experience is that the issues are with the small parts, and the quality of the machining. Both can be easily and permanently addressed by having a good machinist take them apart, check the guide clearances, touch up the valve job, and replace the retainers, locks, and installing springs to match your camshaft choice. The Lunatis usually like a little more spring pressure - and it's spring pressure - not lift - that determines if any valve spring will work for your application. So ignore the "it says they'll go to .600" comments. If you have some time, you can have the machine shop check the spring pressures on what comes with the heads, then compare that to what Lunati (or whoever you go with) wants for pressures with the cam you choose. If the factory springs are good, run them. I think the labor cost to do that will be similar to the price to just install the "correct" matched springs but who knows about your situation.
 
Maybe if some folks would post videos of what their cars sound/run like with various cams, it will help here?
Sure helped me in my own research.
I know very little about cams compared to a lot of these guys, but I just went through all this decision-making on cam choice recently on my own pretty much stock 440 ("mystery motor" built by a now-deceased previous owner) after it wiped a new Mopar purpleshaft before I even got started.
Car is a '68 GTX, 440 with 4 speed and 3.55 gears. Weekend driver with occasional spirited bursts along country roads. I wanted something that talked just a little at idle, would pull to 5500 and was easy to maintain and tune.
I wound up choosing a Comp Magnum series:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-21-306-4/
Specs are just a tick more than the stock factory cam was, but nothing wild.

What it sounds like @ about 750rpm idle:

Very mild, just a little rumpety. Pulls from idle smooth, revs to 5500 happily as you can see.

What it does when you drive it "spiritedly":

Like I said, very mild, easy to get along with. It cruises all day long very nicely, yet has plenty of torque when you want to git. :)
 
I would run the 301 or that crane grind in that application. Do you know your actual compression?
 
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