I forgot how to reorient a big block distributor in the engine block

[vegiguy]

I took one of the valve covers off and low and behold non adjustable rockers on a solid shaft, so I reckon I don't have to worry about adjusting valves on this engine. I should have remembered that it was this way since I'm the one who assembled it years ago.

I wish I could remember what the deal was with the two timing marks on the balancer. They are in fact factory marks, and very deeply machined into it. Right now I think I'm just going to finish putting the accessories on this engine and try to start it - if I can't get it to fire I'll deal with it then. Having said that it sure would be nice to have everything where I know it should be BEFORE I do this so I don't end up having to tear a bunch of stuff back off of the engine to change the balancer (or something else) if that's what I end up having to do.

 

[miller]

They are in fact factory marks, and very deeply machined into it.

Lol...anything is possible! Could be one of those late Friday afternoon parts made. Might suggest, just for grins, when you do fire it off, watch the outer part of the balancer for ANY wobble. Go from there on that one.
At least your going about things right...check things out, since you've had the motor together for awhile, so you know what is what.
Like I mentioned, the 'correct' timing mark on the balancer, will be 90 degrees off the keyway. But, you can't see the keyway, without pulling the crank bolt/washer. In a pinch, to find TDC, I've used a piece of wooden dowl rod, to feel the piston coming up. TDC compression stroke...piston up top...both valves closed. Not on valve overlap (exhaust stroke)...you can tell by rocking the crank back and forth a little, watching the #1 valves. No movement = compression, both valves moving = exhaust. Timing marks should be at 0 degrees, piston on top.
Shaft for the rocker arms is hollow, is how the rocker arms get oiled. Recommend before you try to start it, pull the dizzy, and the drive shaft again! Either make, or buy a 'pre-oil tool', just a long shaft, with a hex rod on one end. You put that tool in place where the dizzy drive shaft goes, hex end fitting into the oil pump. Turning the tool (counter-clockwise) will 'pre-oil' the engine, and with enough...you'll get oil through the rocker arm shafts...onto the top side of the rocker arms themselves.
You really want to do that, on a new rebuild, or one that's been sitting for awhile.

 

[Daves69]

Most folks just find #1 compression stroke by removing all the plugs and rolling over the engine with a thumb over the #1 plug hole.
It's possible to re-orient the intermediate shaft with a large screw driver. I've done it many times.
A short length of PVC and some zip ties to adjust grip can aid in removal of the shaft if needed.

 

[miller]

Any update???