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I found a 1970 Super Bee for sale.. Advice

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RexDub

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Hi Everyone, I recently found a 1970 Dodge Super Bee for sale in my area, it is an original 383 car, with the shifter on the column I was wondering if its a good deal for $4500 let me know. Thanks
 

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Looks like a great project. How is the trunk and underside? If they are clean then I would say seems like a good deal but, would have to see it in person.
 
I'll have to check on those two things, is this a rare type car?? or just a regular super bee?
 
Sorry for all the questions but which would be the better buy, both in similar condition and everything. this 1970 Super Bee or a 1969 Super Bee original b5 blue with the original 383 engine in it and tranny??? this 70 is $4500, the 69 is $4800 what's the better deal?
 
Alot more info and pics would be neccessary to determine which one would be the better deal. For a novice such as yourself, you would be well served to go with whichever one is the easier resto. What is the `68 Plymouth next to the Burnt Orange `70? Either way do not be nervous to start you're offer to buy much lower then what they're asking, the more you save on the anitial investment, the more you have in the resto fund. Approach these projects like you know what you're talking about or bring someone in the profession along with you that does, so that the cars can be assessed before a deal is made. For example, This `70 Super Bee is going to need interior floor pans, trunck floor, outer wheelhouses and the rear crossmember along with some work on the inner cowl and around the rear window corners because its been sitting outside for who knows how long and the engine is stuck, so who knows if it's even buildable. So your asking price is $4,500, I'll give you $2,800 cash. If there unreceptive to that then prompt them to counter offer. That was purely hypothetical, but you get my point. Take lots of pics and make sure that it's #'s matching if the owner say it is. Does it have a fender tag? what's the vin#? If the car still has carpet in it that probably meens the floors are shot, these cars generally leaked around the front and back windows and if the water has nowhere to go but carpet, it will rot through the floors and into the frame rails. Go look again and post up what you find, we'll help you get the best deal.
 
Ditto on Matts comments. But rear crossmembers don't normally rot out, they are stout pieces of steel. I would say what's your garage space look like, do you have room not only for the car as is, but, when you start yanking it apart, do you have room for all the parts, and good storage? Do you have a game plan for this car? I say get the 70, they are unique, only made one year, and the front end looks mean. The 70 dash is cool, dual gauges. If this car was used in salt weather, be prepared for massive rust, if you want to get a worse-case scenario go to my GTX thread here. Do you have the tools and skills to tackle this? If not, be prepared for a long haul restoration, probably like 10+ years.
 
Ditto on Matts comments. But rear crossmembers don't normally rot out, they are stout pieces of steel. I would say what's your garage space look like, do you have room not only for the car as is, but, when you start yanking it apart, do you have room for all the parts, and good storage? Do you have a game plan for this car? I say get the 70, they are unique, only made one year, and the front end looks mean. The 70 dash is cool, dual gauges. If this car was used in salt weather, be prepared for massive rust, if you want to get a worse-case scenario go to my GTX thread here. Do you have the tools and skills to tackle this? If not, be prepared for a long haul restoration, probably like 10+ years.

X 2 What Donny said
Two words when I see this car:

Money Pit
 
Here's a thought.........

If I were you I would take my down payment and talk to you local bank, credit union or wherever you could secure a loan, and look for another 10,000. Take that money and look for a completed car that's for sale on some of the Mopar websites. There are many good deals this time of year on completed B Body Mopars. Believe me you will be much happier and you'll be driving your car in the spring! There's at least 10,000 grand of body work on those cars (unles you do it yourself and that could take years to complete). That's just my opinion, good luck whichever way you choose........
 
I am looking for a project though, something to get me started that's all.. just want to know if it's a good deal..
 
I like the 69 bee...project
tools, time, money,...............& etc
go for it.
 
Sorry for all the questions but which would be the better buy, both in similar condition and everything. this 1970 Super Bee or a 1969 Super Bee original b5 blue with the original 383 engine in it and tranny??? this 70 is $4500, the 69 is $4800 what's the better deal?

I guess it depends if you plan to keep it or sell it. If you plan to keep it buy the one YOU like.

If you plan to sell it when done then the 69 will be a better seller. Seems everyone likes the 69 B bodies. The 70 with the radically new Pontiac looking front end is a love it or hate it look just like the 66-67 Charger body style.
 
After U buy a car how much time and money are U willin to spend to have a car that is worth less then U have in it $ wise. Really how much are U willin to spend after U get a car like this? How much can U do your self or have friends to help?
 
Hope you have alot of resources to do the project and space. Remember it is not cheap to build a car from the ground up. If this is your first resto I would pick on an easier one to get your feet wet and then jump in the one that is going to be your driver to keep. That type of resto will require alot of knowledge, a great body man and a great mechanic. Good luck in which ever you choose to do.
Happy New Year!!
 
Check both cars' vin# and fender tag to be sure they are SuperBees and not Coronet 440s. Also check the stampings on the core support and driver side trunk gutter to be sure they match the vin. Decode the fender tags and see what the cars were born with compared to what they have now to see if hard to come by parts are missing.
All things being equal I'd buy the one that has better options on the fender tag- color combos, ramcharger, dana, etc.
If both car are similarly equipped, but the one that needs less metal work or has fewer missing parts.
 
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