Wow. She's quite the vindictive one!!Thanks all for the great replies. My FSM was kidnapped by my ex when she moved out. I'll find an online version until I buy a new one.
Wow. She's quite the vindictive one!!Thanks all for the great replies. My FSM was kidnapped by my ex when she moved out. I'll find an online version until I buy a new one.
Oh crap...I think I met Carl's brother last night.
Aw, cool. What's she workin on??My FSM was kidnapped by my ex when she moved out.
IMO....."GREEN style" bearings are sealed ball bearing (single row ball bearing), where as the OEM bearing design, used a Timken Tapered bearing using a cup (bearing race) and cone (roller assembly) and an external seal and is far more capable of absorbing both radial and axial loads. ......now the green bearings proponents praise their virtue and now the verbal wars begin.........Side question.. why not put on a set of green bearings?
working on getting on my nervesAw, cool. What's she workin on??
How's she doing with that.... Bout got here??working on getting on my nerves
One does not measure decimal clearance numbers with a ruler.....TAPERED bearings require a small amount of clearance, or axial (in-out) movement. The actual end play is an aquired "feel", but a small amount of movement is necessary to allow for thermal expansion of the axles and housing in operation. IMO....just follow the FSM procedures. The discrepancy MAY be attributed to not having the cone assembly pressed on the axle enough or the cup not installed far enough.......just my opinion of course.....I am a bit lost here. The manual says to tighten the adjusting nut until there's zero play which I did. You then back it off 4 notches to achieve 0.08"-0.18" play. I don't have a dial indicator so I just used a measuring ruler by the side to see how much play I have. I found I had to back off the ring almost one full turn or more to achieve that amount of play, which felt a bit too much to me.
What are your thoughts?
Thanks for your advice. I am using the old cone bearings that were already there. They have 2000 miles on them. I took for a spin yesterday and everything felt ok. I will redo the procedure and take it from there.One does not measure decimal clearance numbers with a ruler.....TAPERED bearings require a small amount of clearance, or axial (in-out) movement. The actual end play is an aquired "feel", but a small amount of movement is necessary to allow for thermal expansion of the axles and housing in operation. IMO....just follow the FSM procedures. The discrepancy MAY be attributed to not having the cone assembly pressed on the axle enough or the cup not installed far enough.......just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON
Just an FYI....NEVER mix match bearing races (cups) and roller assemblies (cones) as they are matched during manufacturing. Although possible, it's NOT recommended by TIMKEN or the bearing manufacturer....Thanks for your advice. I am using the old cone bearings that were already there. They have 2000 miles on them. I took for a spin yesterday and everything felt ok. I will redo the procedure and take it from there.
I'm aware.....but they can have/may have slightly different manufacturing tolerances, depending on applications, loads, speeds, lubrication requirements. Replacement bearings are best replaced as a pair assembly, both the cup and cone from the same box. Its not a matter of economics but more common sense......learned many years ago from an old millwright....but it depends on one's own philosophy.......Just an FYI....NEVER mix match bearing races (cups) and roller assemblies (cones) as they are matched during manufacturing. Although possible, it's NOT recommended by TIMKEN or the bearing manufacturer....
BOB RENTON
You have the spec wrong, whether it was wrong in the manual or something else happened.... You need another 0 after the decimal... .008 to .012....I am a bit lost here. The manual says to tighten the adjusting nut until there's zero play which I did. You then back it off 4 notches to achieve 0.08"-0.18" play. I don't have a dial indicator so I just used a measuring ruler by the side to see how much play I have. I found I had to back off the ring almost one full turn or more to achieve that amount of play, which felt a bit too much to me.
What are your thoughts?
Bloody hell!, thanks mate! What a silly mistake I've done, thanks for pointing that out. I'll get that fixed todayYou have the spec wrong, whether it was wrong in the manual or something else happened.... You need another 0 after the decimal... .008 to .012....
Initially I posted this without bold print but figured it's kinda important & wanted to make sure it got read..