Identify this snubber

[threewood]

What year vehicle?
1962 and 63 B bodies can use these springs with the stock spring hangers as the front segment is same length.

SS springs will have a stamped part number visible underneath. The pass side "should" have 2 half leafs on the bottom.

Driver side SS spring

 

[Cranky]

Yes, I believe that was what Miller was saying. I personally have never had experience with leaf springs so I am learning. They really do not flex much with the weight on them and retain their arch. I think they would stretch out some with significantly more weight. I would like to see this car at least 2 inches lower in the rear.

To get Super Stock springs to lower 2" is going to take more than one leaf. It just depends on what their spring rate is and that's in the part number. Last time I messed with SS springs, taking out one leaf didn't do squat....no pun intended. Personally, I do not like them.

 

[Bicylindrico]

What year vehicle?
1962 and 63 B bodies can use these springs with the stock spring hangers as the front segment is same length.

SS springs will have a stamped part number visible underneath. The pass side "should" have 2 half leafs on the bottom.
View attachment 514175

Driver side SS spring
View attachment 514176
View attachment 514178

Yeah, these springs gave up their part number many years ago. No indication there was ever one there. I am not convinced they are SS springs and maybe some kind of extra HD ones. They are the same leaf number on each side (7) and have an odd tapered edge leaf in the middle of the stack. Each side too. They also look very crude on the ends on the leaves, not sure it that's normal. Not nice and rounded/even like yours.

 

[Bicylindrico]

To get Super Stock springs to lower 2" is going to take more than one leaf. It just depends on what their spring rate is and that's in the part number. Last time I messed with SS springs, taking out one leaf didn't do squat....no pun intended. Personally, I do not like them.

I am not liking these springs myself so far. LOL It's like if they were pretty close to straight across under load they would be close to where I think they should be and it would push the rear shackle back closer to the desired position.

I also noticed the springs/shackles when looking at from behind seem to want to pull the shackles towards the outside. The bushings are old and you can see that they have broken down being spread outwards. Is this normal wear for this type of leaf spring suspension setup?

May just be time to get everything replaced with new hardware.

 

[Bicylindrico]

Sorry Threewood. This is a 65 Satellite

 

[threewood]

Sorry Threewood. This is a 65 Satellite

Got it. They don't look like SS springs. And if they were the front hangers are too short which would pull your rear shackles forward, which you have already.

Here is a chart for segment lengths...

If it were me I would replace them since the bushing plates are worn out. If you do, and go with SS springs, your car needs a 1" longer front hanger and the pass side will probably need longer U bolts because of the 2 half leafs so keep that in mind.

You can get them for around $120 each shipped from places like Summit. I have a set on my 62 and 69, love em.

 

[miller]

All good ideas for you. Wrong springs...maybe even homemade. Never have seen the second leaf, same length as the first.
Yes, wasn't sure what I was seeing in pic 2.

Just do a little research, spring-wise, for your car. Those springs also set the fore/aft location of your rear axle, to the wheelwell. And, unless tapered shims are needed, set the angle for the gear box, to the driveshaft.

Beauty of it all, there's the right length springs that will fit right, and various hangers, to get the whole mess in the hole right. Go for new bushings, too. Bet they slip right in!

Looks like some 'modifying' was done there. Wrong!

 

[66Satellite47]

FYI, the '65 was a one year only leaf spring. The front half is 21". Earlier years are 20", '66 and later B bodies are 22" front segments. With my '65 Coronet I used the OEM main leaf and used a combination of Super Track Pak springs & stock to match the the 3000# SS springs from the mid '70's. Worked great. Hard leaving, 10.60's & 10.50's in 1984 & '85 with iron heads.

 

[Bicylindrico]

Thanks guys. My heads hurts trying to make sense of everything so this is my plan.
1) Get the drive-train rebuilt since the engine bits are sitting in the back of my truck looking for a trustworthy machinist and I have many more parts to purchase.
2) Get the brakes up to snuff to be able to stop vehicle with aforementioned power potential.
3) Drive vehicle and enjoy classic Hot Rod 'always driving downhill' stance.
4) Save money to get the suspension sorted out with correct components that are tried and true.

The car will be fine and enjoyable until I get to that part of the list. This car is a new venture for me so maybe I have tried to come up with answers to everything before I have accomplished the very first task. I will forget about the rear suspension until the higher priority items have been addressed and hope to eventually get to where the ride height is actually something to worry about. This thread has taught me that this suspension is not right and you guys would know. Thanks for all of your help!

 

[oldbee]

I'm thinking that someone added a leaf (or two) to a stock set on your car.

 

[Bicylindrico]

I'm thinking that someone added a leaf (or two) to a stock set on your car.

I tend to agree though I am not familiar with what I am looking at. That middle leaf looks different dimensionally from the rest. Weird. I think it's going to be easiest to pitch it all and install known good stuff with fresh new bushings, brackets and hangers. Looks nicer too!

 

[oldbee]

That dimension is what got me thinking on my answer; a good job though.

 

[Bicylindrico]

Damn...no answers?

Pic 1...stock front hanger...good.
Pic 2...need to go. Put 'normal' shocks on.
Pic 3...stock rear shackles...but...

Problem I see is, wrong springs. Probably too short. Understand you've got it in the air, rear axle hanging. With the car on the ground, what 'angle' are the shackles?
On the ground, those shackles should be, at the very least, 90* with the springs. In other words, the attach point on the springs, should be behind the upper attach point. Usually more than 90* (minimum), angled to the back of the car.
Don't know what else you have, but Mopar springs create 'spring wrap', when it's hit hard, springs wrap, same as tighten, pulling the rear of the springs forward. Same time, the nose of the rear gear box moves up. That's the whole reason for the snubber, to make a stopping point, when the rear axle twists upward. (Also when it 'hooks-up'.

I can tell which way it's going, by the bumper bracket.

I will say when I was bouncing the car the shackle would hit the frame of the car and you can actually see the small rust mark forward of the shackle in my picture where it could hit when the body was at the highest point. No shocks on the car but obviously happened prior with shocks. Only the right side though. More gap on the left shackle.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Shouldn't those shackles lean to the rear?
I thought MP SS springs have a shorter front segment than the stocks. And longer front spring hangers are used I believe.

That was my first thought. I think for your springs, you need the 2" extended front spring hangers. You might look at how the tire is centerted in the wheel opening and see if it needs to go toward the rear a bit. You might also measure from perch bolt to front hanger eye, and from perchbolt to rear hanger eye and compare to stock measurements for spring length.............................MO

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Another thing to keep in mind. If you locate the rear axle forward or back from where it is now, you may need to shorten or lengthen the driveshaft..............MO

 

[66Satellite47]

Measure the front and back halve dimensions. You have something that is clearly not too good. For a '65 car you need the 21" front segment. You have a homemade spring package. That's not really bad, I made my own with really good results. But I used the factory Super Trak Pak setup with the '65 main leaf and later copied the mid 70's 3000# SS spring package with the '65 main leaf. Worked great.

 

[miller]

More good ideas, from the guys.

If you can, get a service manual for the car. There's frame/suspension measurements in it, that can guide you, for rear axle location. Then, go from there. That's the main thing you want to set, regardless of the parts you use.
Main thing on those springs, primary spring too short, if the front hanger is stock. Be careful what you pick for parts...if wrong, rear axle winds up located wrong, and add to the problems...new driveshaft, and the like. Measure, and again! Overall picture.

 

[early2drsedan]

1963 was last year for 20in segment 64-65 21in segment

 

[Cranky]

I took another harder look at your pics in post #16 and it looks like someone added a full main leaf to the stack. Looks to me like they cut off the eyes from both ends and stuck it in there. Now I've been known to do something similar to a stock spring stack but I cut off the rear segment and the front eye and then install it. If you want to experiment a bit, pull that whole second leaf out and see what it does. If you have more time than money like I did most of my life, experimenting can teach you a lot. In most cases, my cars ended up being just as fast as many others that had twice as much or more money in them....

 

[oldbee]

Boy Crank, took u a long time to check out the pics, lol. I concur , although it could've been a spring shop that did it long ago(?).