Idler Solenoid for air conditioning
- Thread starter mpro69rr
- Start date
Ah, OK, so I should wire it before that switch, that would be the BLU(02), or would BLU(04) also work? I am going to have to get under the dash to find it, that's going to be a pain!
I would wire it off the 02 circuit. I would use a relay. All the 02 circuit would do is activate the relay. Wiring it that way when the a/c is selected the relay will activate the idle solenoid. Wiring it any other way the solenoid will be cycled the same as the compressor. As discussed some solenoids are not strong enough to open the throttle. This way once you step on the gas the solenoid can extend and stay out until the a/c is shut off.
Great, I will buy a relay and wire off the BLU(02). I see now why you wouldn't want to wire it from the compressor wire due to the cycling. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it!
Gold Rush
Well-Known Member
I'm also confused about the servo and cycling switch terminology. Can't make heads or tails about the diagrams posted. Maybe what my Classic Auto Air system has in not what either of you are talking about. I have the firewall forward upgrade system so all the OEM inside pieces and parts are original. That may determine a different way of doing things.
Also my Charger is a '74 SE with 400 4V so it has some EPA garbage. The idle solenoid is actually tide direct to switched 12V and acts as an anti dieseling device.
The is Cycling is controlled by a combination of 12 V from the a/c controls and temperature at the bulkhead mounted thermostat.
Also my Charger is a '74 SE with 400 4V so it has some EPA garbage. The idle solenoid is actually tide direct to switched 12V and acts as an anti dieseling device.
The is Cycling is controlled by a combination of 12 V from the a/c controls and temperature at the bulkhead mounted thermostat.
it sounds like yours is totally different than mine because you have some of the original A/C.
BMosely
Well-Known Member
My ‘68 Coronet is factory ac with the classic air refresh under the hood. I wired the throttle stop right off the 12v compressor feed at the compressor side. The wire is already 6 inches from the needed location. Once the ac switch is turned on there is constant 12v on that wire.
There are two things that I didn’t do on my first car, ‘67 Mustang, that I said I would always do on every future build. An ac throttle stop was one and a 100% viable emergency brake. The mustangs had drum brakes and a hand lever. No matter how hard a pulled that thing it would always creep if downhill backwards. The Dr diff rear disc with internal drum ebrake fixed this car. Lessons learned, I started with the disc kit that uses the ebrake to a caliper lever. Those should be banned and the vendors selling them water boarded. There is such a fine line on adjustment that you either have a creeping ebrake or groaning car brakes.
There are two things that I didn’t do on my first car, ‘67 Mustang, that I said I would always do on every future build. An ac throttle stop was one and a 100% viable emergency brake. The mustangs had drum brakes and a hand lever. No matter how hard a pulled that thing it would always creep if downhill backwards. The Dr diff rear disc with internal drum ebrake fixed this car. Lessons learned, I started with the disc kit that uses the ebrake to a caliper lever. Those should be banned and the vendors selling them water boarded. There is such a fine line on adjustment that you either have a creeping ebrake or groaning car brakes.
I was going to use the wire going to the compressor but pnora said I should use the one before the thermostat with a relay. I don't think I can use the compressor wire because it looks like its 14g and not 12g wire and the solenoid requires a 12g wire. I'll have to look at it again but I think I am going to go with a relay to take the load off the wire.
Why the Y jumper, where does the other wire go, to ground? If so will I have to ground the solenoid?
No solenoid will be self grounding unless it has two wires. All the ones that have a constant running compressor are fine running direct off the compressor feed. The ones with a cycling switch are better off wired as I told you.
Thanks for all your help! I ordered a relay and some 12g wire from amazon, should be here tomorrow.
There’s a plug connection in the line to the AC compressor clutch about 6” from the compressor. I unplugged it and plugged my Y harness into one side of it and hooked the 2 leads out of it to other plug section to the AC compressor line and to the solenoid. Think of it as a circuit splitter.
Ah, that makes sense....
Well, I received the relay and wired it up the way pnora suggested. I had a little problem with the t connector on the wire before the thermostat, but I finally fixed it, was real tight to get in behind the dash. I tested it out and it worked great! Once started I turned on the air and gave it a little gas and the solenoid popped out, the idle was too high so I adjusted it and got it to about 900rpm's. Thanks to everyone for the help, I could not have done this without the forum!
Similar threads
