Ignition Switch Problem ??

[coronet-flyer]

I have a 66 Coronet with stock MOPAR electronic ignition and I am experiencing the following conditions:
-1- When the ignition switch is in the On position I have a steady 12V to the coil.
-2- When starting and the engine is turning over I have intermittent 12V to the coil.
-3- While holding the key in Start position; if I allow the key to move just a fraction back
towards the On position the engine will start.
Do the above conditions indicate a ignition switch problem or could there be other problem(s)?

I have some experience with other manufacturers 60's & 70's cars but this is my first MOPAR
~Please Help~

 

[kiwigtx]

Check the connections on the bulkhead connector and the Ballast Resistor first.

Then report back with your findings.

 

[twecomm]

Sounds like ignition switch or, resistor problem. Because of what you state in item # 3, I would think ignition switch is bad. When you are in the "start" position, the ignition switch routes full battery 12 volts to the coil side of the resistor giving full 12 volts to the coil as well as full 12 volts to starter solenoid. Once engine is started and in the ignition switch is in the "run" position, the resistor is now electrically in SERIES with the coil reducing the volts to the coil. The ignition switch provides the path to electrically bypass the resistor in start position. With engine running, the alternator raises the battery voltage to aprox. 13.6 to 14 volts or so. You should see that voltage the non coil side of the resistor. The resistor now in series with the coil should be dropping the voltage to about 11.5 volts or so on the coil side of the resistor with engine running. It could also be a bulkhead connection. You can always find 66 ignition switches on E bay as they were the same for many 60's Mopars.

 

[Durandal25]

Bad switch. Easy swap.....get a bezel tool

 

[coronet-flyer]

Check the connections on the bulkhead connector and the Ballast Resistor first.

Then report back with your findings.

Will do. Thanks

 

[coronet-flyer]

Sounds like ignition switch or, resistor problem. Because of what you state in item # 3, I would think ignition switch is bad. When you are in the "start" position, the ignition switch routes full battery 12 volts to the coil side of the resistor giving full 12 volts to the coil as well as full 12 volts to starter solenoid. Once engine is started and in the ignition switch is in the "run" position, the resistor is now electrically in SERIES with the coil reducing the volts to the coil. The ignition switch provides the path to electrically bypass the resistor in start position. With engine running, the alternator raises the battery voltage to aprox. 13.6 to 14 volts or so. You should see that voltage the non coil side of the resistor. The resistor now in series with the coil should be dropping the voltage to about 11.5 volts or so on the coil side of the resistor with engine running. It could also be a bulkhead connection. You can always find 66 ignition switches on E bay as they were the same for many 60's Mopars.

 

[coronet-flyer]

Will first check voltage readings as you indicated, then check bulkhead connections. Thanks

 

[coronet-flyer]

Bad switch. Easy swap.....get a bezel tool

 

[coronet-flyer]

Two out of three replies I received said; Bad Switch!
If all electrical connections checkout at the bulkhead & ballast resistor I will purchase a new ignition switch. Thanks

 

[coronet-flyer]

Two out of three replies I received said; Bad Switch!
If all electrical connections checkout at the bulkhead & ballast resistor I will purchase a new ignition switch. Thanks

 

[451Mopar]

From the description it sounds like the ignition switch.
Disconnect the start wire (yellow wire) from the neutral safety switch, and put a voltage indicator (meter or test light) between ground and the coil (+) positive terminal. With ignition switch in "Run" position (engine not running), check for voltage. It should be maybe less than 10 volts because power is going through the ballast resistor, and the ignition box will be grounding the coil (-) negative side. For testing, you could disconnect the ECU to see voltages close to battery voltage, but not necessary just for basic switch check.
Anyhow, with ignition switch in "run" position, wiggle the ignition switch around while monitoring the coil voltage / check light. You should have consistent voltage with no voltage cut outs while wigling the switch in the "Run" position.
Next, Do the same while the ignition switch is in the "Start" position. Remember the engine won't turn over because we disconnected the ignition switch power to the neutral safety switch relay. If as you said, in the full "start position" the switch is bad, you should see the ignition coil voltage drop out until you slightly back the key off. If that is what happens, then the switch is bad. If wiggling the key around in the "start" position, and the coil has constant, un-intrupted power, then the question is, does the car try to start after releasing the key from "start" to "run" position?
If that is the case, you may have bad ground wiring problem.

 

[coronet-flyer]

Check the connections on the bulkhead connector and the Ballast Resistor first.

Then report back with your findings.

Hi, very sorry I did not reply but my 66 got put on “HOLD” due to issues. The 66 is now on the front burner. I think the issue might be the switch because I found a new Dodge switch in a box of extra parts and pieces. I am going to install it and I will advise outcome. Thanks for your prompt reply and please. forgive my no reply / very, very late reply