Ignition system prefrence

[383man]

I use the factory Prestolite dual point on my 426. However, I use it to trigger a hidden MSD 6A. Very reliable system while enjoying the benefits of the enhanced spark. You have to look very close to see that the system is not stock. All of the connections are made at the factory coil. Added benefit is, should the MSD box ever fail, it can all be restored at the coil and drive home on the stock system. The points last forever as they are not carrying any current. If you have access to any old articles or interviews with Tom Hoover, one of the fathers of the second gen Hemi, he always said an MSD ignition was one of the best mods to the engine.

Thats very interesting that you do that. I mean most just use an electronic dist today but you are correct as the points carry very little circuit in that setup as they are just a trigger for the MSD unit. I remember some systems back in the 60's like that. Its cool you are using the points dist. I would be curious as to just how long the points would last in that setup and will the rubbing block wear down before the points burn ? Ron

 

[451Mopar]

I'm not sure about the history of the Mopar Performance Conversion Kit / Orange Box, but I'm pretty sure the vendor changed around 1990? and quality seemed to go down while prices doubled. I bought a couple Direct Connection / Mopar Performance Conversion Kits throughout the 1980's and didn't have any problems with them, then I bought one in the mid 1990s and had problems with it. Originally, the Drive tang on the distributor shaft was in-line with where the rotor was pointing. The Distributor I got had the rotor notch way off from the tanh position, and the rotor to cap phasing was all messed up. I never drove the car with the ECU that came in that kit. I fixed the rotor phasing issue, lived with the drive tang being out of position in relation to the distributor and ran a Crane HI-6 CD box. That was for my 360 Engine.
For the "B" block 383 & 400 that I have had in the '71 Charger I was using (laate 1980's or early 1990'S) a Non-Vacuum advance Unilite distributor to trigger a MSD-6AL (analog, not digital box) and did not have any issues for 20 years until I had to replace the Unilite module.
Not with the FiTech EFI, just using a remanufactured 400" Lean Burn Distributor to signal the EFI, and the EFI signals the old MSD 6-AL box (and HI-6 coil.)

 

[747mopar]

Just a little something to throw into the discussion is simplicity and replaceability. When I built my current ride I went with an MSD box, no issues but do I need it... No. Now every time I go on a long haul I have a somewhat expensive item that's not available at any auto parts store that could leave me stranded.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The Distributor I got had the rotor notch way off from the tanh position, and the rotor to cap phasing was all messed up. I never drove the car with the ECU that came in that kit. I fixed the rotor phasing issue, lived with the drive tang being out of position in relation to the distributor...

that must be when they changed to the Mallory distributor. The rotor is around 90-100 degrees off the original indexing as far I recall.

I had to reindex the oil pump shaft to match the rotor with the cap #1 mark

 

[mrhemi]

Thats very interesting that you do that. I mean most just use an electronic dist today but you are correct as the points carry very little circuit in that setup as they are just a trigger for the MSD unit. I remember some systems back in the 60's like that. Its cool you are using the points dist. I would be curious as to just how long the points would last in that setup and will the rubbing block wear down before the points burn ? Ron

I checked in my log book. I have been running this set up for 20 years, only about 6000 miles though (don;t drive this car much). I have never had to adjust the points in that time. I check the dwell angle every spring.

 

[67 Coronet Conv]

So I decided to go with a Rev-N-Nator system but they are back ordered, so when they come I’ll update my ECU. In the meantime I bought another ECU from summit (blue one), Ballast Resistor, flame thrower coil. I’ll install these parts and see how she runs till then.

thanks for the input

 

[Bee1971]

Give us some feedback once you have it running

Thanx

 

[Nacho-RT74]

So I decided to go with a Rev-N-Nator system but they are back ordered, so when they come I’ll update my ECU. In the meantime I bought another ECU from summit (blue one), Ballast Resistor, flame thrower coil. I’ll install these parts and see how she runs till then.

thanks for the input

There is somebody selling an used Rev-N-Nator into the 1971-1974 dodge charger FB group