Installed new electronic volt regulator and....

[440beep]

Is my current wiring correct? Green wire straight from regulater to alternator. I have the blue wire out of the regulator going to the alternator and into this blue wire I have two other wires spliced into it: 1 blue wire from the ballast resisitor and a blue wire w/white trace on it (the two wires that were previously connected to the ignition side of the old mechanical regulator).


However, I found these other instructions where it looks like I'm supposed to splice the green and blue wires together.

"Basically, a wire is added to the second field brush on the alternator. On the original alternator, this brush is grounded to the case of the alternator, so you'll need to change the alternator to a 1970 or newer style. The second field wire is connected to the outside plug on the newer voltage regulator (two plugs, one is in the middle, one is on the outside). The original field wire that ran to the "FLD" plug on the original voltage regulator (green wire) needs to be connected with the wire that ran to the "IGN" side of the original voltage regulator. This wire (both the old FLD and the old IGN) need to be connected to the center plug on the newer voltage regulator as well."

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Sounds like you fried the reg.

along with getting a new regulator, upgrade the wires as suggested in the instructions from that model.

Powermaster recommends that a 10 AWG or larger battery charge wire be used with all 75 amp alternators


If Powermaster alternator is of a higher amperage that the alternator that came OE on the vehicle then Powermaster recommends upgrading the battery output cable from the alternator. Your local speed shop has optional charge wires for this purpose.

 

[440beep]

Actually I think I've got it hooked up wrong. Looks like I need to splice the original green (fld) and blue (ign) wires together and run to positive side of alternator.

 

[440beep]

So with the regulator disconnected there is no over charging. Battery volt at battery is 12.4. What does this mean?

actually, I have seen regulators out of the box that are bad...sounds like alternator is being full fielded by regulator...or maybe alt is shorted inside....unplug regulator and start engine...is it still over charging now?

Bryan

 

[440beep]

well I think its gotta be a bad VR. Even with another Powermaster dual phase alt, the battery is still overcharging and the alt is putting out 18v. The voltage drop from the alt to the battery is only 0.2-0.3.

So IF my wiring is correct, it has to be a bad MP electronic VR.

 

[A383Wing]

So with the regulator disconnected there is no over charging. Battery volt at battery is 12.4. What does this mean?

you either have a bad regulator, or it's wired wrong...by unplugging the VR, you just confirmed that the alternator is not shorted inside

Bryan

 

[440beep]

Sure enough, it was a bad voltage regulator. Installed the new one today, and now have 13.5v at the battery and 15v at the alternator. :headbang:

 

[dodge68charger]

Just wondering if you solved the charging problem. Just want to make sure i have everything proper before i start my engine. Thank you

 

[440beep]

Oh yes, that problem was fixed last year!! And I've bypassed the ammeter in the dash and added a voltage meter which reads around 14v when cruising. Getting mid 12v when starting the Bee. The updated MP electrical system has been working great since last year!!!

Just wondering if you solved the charging problem. Just want to make sure i have everything proper before i start my engine. Thank you