Installed Pertronix 2 and coil on my 69 383?

[superbeedave]

Hi again, I have installed the pertronix 2 and coil and bypassed ballast and it runs like sh_t!
Sluggish and runs rough. Distributor is in near perfect condition did all kinds of trial and error and just can't get it to run the way it should. Stuck my points back in and runs perfect. One thing I notice is with the pertronix in, my distributor is rotated pretty far advance compared to the electronic ignition or with the points in. After diagnosing everything it appears that my calculations I came up with is that the contacts under the green tape are not perfectly aligned with rotor when it makes contact with the distributor towers on inside of cap to send the spark at just the right time. I think it is a piss poor design or just a case of a bad ignitor! Any ideas?
Thanks, Dave

 

[hemihotrodca]

I have never had luck with them. same problems as you or they don't last.

 

[Ugk]

Last one I got i couldn't get mine to run right either, went to mopar performance distributor.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Others on here swear by them. Just maybe one of those brave souls can solve the problem.

 

[Roadcuda]

Don't know if I can solve the problem but in my case, I installed them on 2, 383s , and a 273. All have run great from day one. If I understand correctly you said that you by passed the ballast resistor? There was nothing in the instructions I had that said to do that. What I had to do was run the, IIRC, red wire to a power source before the resistor. So to keep it somewhat original looking I crimped a new connector into the power wire to the resistor, that should be the right side of it when looking at the firewall. The other wire from the dist. goes to the + side of the coil. They've been in the cars from 1 to 8 years with no problems at all. With the quality of parts now it's possible you got a bad one, but it might be worth doing a re-wire with the ballast in system and see what happens.

 

[superbeedave]

If you buy their flamethrower coils you can use a 12 gauge jumper wire through the ballast and reinstall it
and you don't have to physically remove it. Yes it does talk about that on the original pertronix and the pertronix 2 and
I'm pretty sure number 3 say's it also. their coils are made to run cooler than the stock ones and some aftermarket coils. And
by the way, I contacted the pertronix tech line and they are shipping out another one. First I had to cut the wires on the bad one
and destroy it and take a picture and email it to him then he will send me the new one.

 

[69a100]

I'll bet you a bag of dollars that you haven't upgraded your charging system and your still running that POS little black box?
Read it and get er' done! http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/charging.htm

 

[superbeedave]

I'll bet you a bag of dollars that you haven't upgraded your charging system and your still running that POS little black box?
Read it and get er' done! http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/charging.htm

Well, for one thing it is a dual field alternator and I have one of them electronic voltage regulators that looks like original but
has the electronics inside and it runs from 14.51 cold to 13.70 when hot. And I also have all new engine and engine bay wiring.

 

[threewood]

I have been running the Pertronix II, Flamethrower Epoxy coil in my 318 for about a year and zero issues. I re used my old points distributor, mounted the coil in stock location. I also gutted my ballast and soldered in a solid 12ga wire to make it look stock while bypassing it. Finally, I am running one of the solid state black voltage regulators.

The timing needs to be adjusted when it is installed as the Pertronix unit is clocked 20* or so from the points.

Did you ever get yours straightened out?

 

[1967coronet]

I have the 1st gen pertronix and their matched coil on my 383 mounted in a Dorman reman points style distributor.
By passed the ballast resistor and have the solid state black voltage reg, Its been good for a long time now, set the air gap with the little plastic gauge and never looked back, Over 12k on it and the rotor and cap look good still.
That all said, I still carry all the parts in the trunk to convert it back.

 

[dieseldazzle]

I swear by them.

Was your original dizzy a dual point or single point?

Voltage reading at crank and running on the 12v feed?

Did you use the plastic fueled gauge and nothing metallic to measure the air gap?

Can be a little tricky getting the rotor all the way down into the green banded collar.

 

[superbeedave]

To give all an update on this problem I had/have. A few years or so car would run okay at times then run crappy it
was really inconsistent. Would pull plugs a few times in the last three years and some would look okay others had some black
soot what ever the reason they just stopped burning clean. It wasn't until the end of October I did a research on why plugs are black
and one reason was plug wires. I know I have had the reproduction wires for about six years with just about a thousand to two thousand
miles on them but I said what the heck and pulled out my fluke to measure for resistance. I started with the coil wire and i notice that
it gave me no reading like there was a dead short in the wire. Then I remembered a few years or so back I pulled out the coil wire from the cap
and it pulled the wire off the end brass piece. I thought I fixed it but I guess I didn't. So not a whole lot of voltage was getting thru to the cap now
things were coming together of why the car started acting up at that point of time. Well like I said it was the end of October the cover was going on the car and then I found this. Grabbed a new coil wire which is about 4-6 inches longer and took it out for a spin and I''ll be dammed! Ran so much better then it has for awhile at that time the mopar electronic ignition was on and not the pertronix so maybe next year the kit should be fine when I install it.

 

[mopar 3 B]

That's what sells parts. Buying stuff before the problem has been found.

 

[SublimeSixpack]

FWIW Three years ago I purchased, then installed the basic Pertronix Igniter conversion kit. Kept the ballast resistor in line, installed a new Blaster coil and have not had any problems with the system in the 11,000 miles I've put on the car since. So far I like it better than the MP Electronic conversion kits I have on other Mopars.