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[Instructions] Installing US CAR TOOL B-Body Relocation Kit

great post, but if you read the mopar chassis book the info is there and what kit part number for your car and year.
 
My car is having a ton of sheet metal work done. I installed the front boxes before sending it to the sheet metal guy. I explained that if the rear shackle is installed with the US Car Tool kit it ends up raising the rear of the car - not something I want. So the pin has to be installed at the stock height BUT this requires the frame rail to be modified for the shackle clearance. As you can see, the guy got creative !! Also remover the outer rail and brackets to clean things up.

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Stanton. It looks like you went with a 68-70 trunk floor pan too. That’s the route I took also to get the exhaust out the back.
 
Man o' man... Happy to see this thread is still being visited,! Car is still running the same setup that was installed in this thread. Let me know if anyone has any questions! Thanks guys.
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I'm interested in finding out what the shortened rear end housing dimensions were on 66-67 Coronets that had the springs relocation kit installed. Any dimensions would be helpful. backing plate to backing plate, spring perch to spring perch. Axle to axle. Any of the above would help. Thanks
 
Unless you back half the car and tub it to the max there really is no need to narrow the rear end. Just use a wheel that's wider with the extra width added to the back side. A narrowed rear is a big expense for the sole purpose of having a deeper offset wheel.
 
A shorter axle does make getting the tires on and off especially having a 66/67 , wheel opening is not that tall. I have to deflate 29.5 x10.5 to get them on.
 
Unless you back half the car and tub it to the max there really is no need to narrow the rear end. Just use a wheel that's wider with the extra width added to the back side. A narrowed rear is a big expense for the sole purpose of having a deeper offset wheel.

Thanks! I have a Dana 60 housing, spool and 4.10 gears I plan to use in my 66 Coronet at some point in the future so regardless I need to have the passenger car housing ends welded on after determining a housing length. My plan is to shorten the rear housing 4 to 6 inches narrower then the factory length. Haven't committed to anything yet. I have a 8 3/4 in the car now that works fine so no hurry on changing the setup.
 
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do you have to use shorter / longer shocks when relocating the springs?
I wouldn't think so,it's moving horizontally which can change the angle which in turn does change the exact length but it would be very minor.
 
Found this thread; I’m in the process of tackling this right now. This info helped me with the rear shackle install. I’m thinking of removing the existing frame section that holds the original. shackles. Certainly would seem that once you move the shackles, there’s zero need for that section. Reassures me to see that someone else saw it the same way I do.
 
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