Introducing "Project Odyssey" a 1972 "Super Satellite"

[Dibbons]

The aftermarket side hood bumpers do not match factory equipment.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: Phase #1 now complete: basic "get it back on the road", re-paint, new interior. Phase #2 about to begin: this will entail upgrade to the power train. Replacing the factory 318 (overhauled by a previous owner probably back in the '70's) with a 340 and a 340/305. In the next couple of months the rings and bearings will be replaced in a 340 (040 overbore) which has 1.88 intake valves and flat top pistons. This will be kind of a mule engine. After a road trip the 340 will then be replaced with a more unique de-stroked 340/305 (.030 overbore) with 2.02 intake valves, TRW domed forged pistons, Cunningham connecting rods, and Bryant billet crankshaft (the 340 may be put on the market later, not sure yet). Refer back to post #84 to find photo of connecting rod.

Today, I began the 340 rebuild by sandblasting the exhaust manifolds and spraying a high-temp paint. Unfortunately, not sure what to do with two passenger side 340 manifolds when I will probably still need to find a driver's side exhaust manifold (that's the way the 340 came at purchase time). Going to visit the local "Mr. Mopar" here in Mexico and see what he might have in his stash of parts.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: The 340 block was magnaflux inspected and painted some time ago. Not sure, but one cylinder may have been sleeved sometime in the past.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: The 340 (.040" overbore) I purchased evidently came with a 273/318 forged crankshaft (ground .020" undersize) being the fact there are no holes drilled through the connecting rod journals (see photo for comparison). I purchased a 340 crankshaft (ground .010" undersize) to replace it to avoid any balance issues. I have no idea how the engine would have run with the previous owner using the other 273 crankshaft.

Now I need to have a machine shop inspect the 340 crankshaft to find if it needs a regrind or only a polish. I believe the bearing set I already purchased is for a .020" undersize re-build.

When struck with a metal object, both crankshafts give a very similar "ping" sound. The 273 crankshaft is obviously forged and I am not sure yet whether the 340 crankshaft is forged or cast.

 

[Cranky]

Update: The 340 (.040" overbore) I purchased evidently came with a 273/318 forged crankshaft (ground .020" undersize) being the fact there are no holes drilled through the connecting rod journals (see photo for comparison). I purchased a 340 crankshaft (ground .010" undersize) to replace it to avoid any balance issues. I have no idea how the engine would have run with the previous owner using the other 273 crankshaft.

Now I need to have a machine shop inspect the 340 crankshaft to find if it needs a regrind or only a polish. I believe the bearing set I already purchased is for a .020" undersize re-build.

When struck with a metal object, both crankshafts give a very similar "ping" sound. The 273 crankshaft is obviously forged and I am not sure yet whether the 340 crankshaft is forged or cast.

View attachment 1720838

The bottom crank is forged for sure and the top one looks like a cast crank. The forged cranks have a wide parting line like what's on the counterweight....same on the 'face' of the journal. Cast cranks have a thin parting line.

 

[Dibbons]

The bottom crank is forged for sure and the top one looks like a cast crank. The forged cranks have a wide parting line like what's on the counterweight....same on the 'face' of the journal. Cast cranks have a thin parting line.

I know what you mean, but I am still not positive about the 340 crank. It has signs of a wide parting line in places.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: Dropped both cranks off at the local machine shop and asked 'em to turn the 340 crank to .020 undersize to match the bearing set I have (presently it is .010 under). Left the .020 undersize 273 crank just in case they need it for measuring reference.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: Removed light surface rust from the cylinder bores with ball hone and ATF. Began to do the same to the lifter bores with a brake cylinder hone (pulled it out too soon while spinning and stones flew away-need to purchase a second cylinder hone now).

Then I removed surface rust from the machined/unpainted surfaces using a chrome polish and old toothbrush.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: More parts clean up. I found some pale yellow liquid in an unmarked container I thought was vinegar I use for de-rusting, but it really did not smell like vinegar. Anyway, after degreasing the connecting rods with a soapy solution I dropped the rods into the yellow stuff. Now to see what happens. There is a remote chance the liquid is Evaporust. (photo #1)

I cleaned up the .040 over pistons which are definitely not forged. Must be cast or that thypereutectic aluminum that I never understood. They had some carbon on 'em. With the double eyebrow valve reliefs cut into the crown, the compression ratio would diminish a small amount. On the other hand, an overbore would increase the compression a bit. The pistons do have a notch indicating a forward orientation when installing them. This tells me they probably have the factory pin offset which reportedly helps to limit piston slap. (photo #2)

Cleaned up the crankshaft main caps as well. I noticed the locating pins normally found in the cylinder block to properly situate the cylinder heads in the proper place are missing. I hope I can find them stashed away in a box or bag around here. (photo #3)

 

[Dibbons]

Update: That soak I gave the connecting rods resulted in no improvement in removing the surface rust. Still not sure what that "light yellow liquid" was, maybe used coolant? (photo #1).

So my next alternative was to coat the rods in Naval Jelly and rinse (photo #2).