is 500hp realistic, thinking about a turbo.

[Luck]

Hi guys long time listener first time caller.

I have a 68 Coronet that I intend on road racing with a dana 60, a833 and a 383 with a 440 source heads, forged crank, cast pistons and unknown rods/compression ratio. I don't remember the cam but it had the word purple in it. It's kind of a dog, honestly, so I suspect the compression ratio isn't very high. 350hp at the crank maybe, but I could be way off. If I recall correct it has 32 deg advance and afr was 12.8 at wot with a Holley 670. I intend to dyno it after the efi swap before moving forward with any boost.

Right now I'm in the process of converting to efi using a megasquirt 2, Holley terminator throttle body, and the ignition will be controlled by a msd6al2 so safety tuning the thing into boost shouldn't be an issue. plan to really play it safe with timing fuel and psi, shooting for the 500hp crank mark.

I've spent a lot of time building this thing and I don't want to blow it up right away. Ive read a lot of different opinions on what the stock bottom end , a833 trans, and dana60 can handle. Some people say 500hp some 650 etc. so what's the general consensus on a 500hp ungirdled factory bottom end, an a833 and dana 60? Is it a time bomb or will it all take the abuse for years?

 

[padam]

Send it

 

[RemCharger]

I'd just put the money in the motor and make 500 n/a. It's too questionable to put boost on it anyway.

 

[440Coronet500]

Without knowing cam and compression ratio you may end up dumping alot of money into it and still have a dog. 500 hp is achievable N/A, so why get fancy. 440

 

[Luck]

As far as staying n/a, it just doesn't suit the builds end goal. Drivability suffers, a lot more valve train stress etc. If I was going to tear into the motor, ide just build a stout little small block and boost that instead.

I have enough experience with forced induction on other cars to know that's the way forward for me. Just wondering what a realistic limit is on the components I have is and what others have made without exploding after 1/2 a season.

 

[RemCharger]

Motor won't explode. Just might eat some of your cast pistons during the " trials/tribulations/tuning" adventures.

 

[furious70]

I've run a turbocharged 383 since 2012. Until 2022 I ran a reman shop cast piston one with .020 steel head gaskets and OEM heads. I went to 12psi with water injection and everything was fine. No Dyno, I have no clue what hp.

 

[#41]

You really should select cam, pistons, rings, etc. for a proper turbo build. Of course just bolting one on and seeing what happens can be entertaining for onlookers or 'Roadkill' productions.

Built right with quality parts, a 383, 833, and Dana will survive 500hp no problem. No turbo needed.

 

[HawkRod]

^^^ What @#41 said.

I wouldn't put boost on an engine with cast pistons. Can it live? Sure. Is it much more likely to fail? Yes.

 

[dvw]

we’ve run a stock 360 block and cast crank for close to 10 years. Melted 1 piston in that time. At 22 psi it has been close to 875hp.
Doug

 

[RemCharger]

A proper tune up goes a long way

 

[Cojohnso1]

I believe nothing wakes up a B-block than a RB 3.75 crank. Lower profile pistons needed. But 500 HP no problem. Even a pump gas build.

I believe the 383 goes to a 432 build at .030 over bore?

JMO.

 

[j-c-c-62]

"I intend on road racing with a dana 60............"

Let me blunt but honest, right there it shows you have a very steep learning curve ahead. Don't be discouraged, we all started out not knowing a single thing.
For example, "road racing" IMO is 50% driver (seat time), 20% tires, 15% chassis, 10% motor, 5% brakes.
Therefore, drop in a nice reliable warmed over lightweight 360 with a carb, and get on the track, get some seat time, and you will quickly see what first needs upgrading, in baby steps, as your wallet thins.
Your existing shared plan sucks.

 

[Luck]

Thats hilarious. There's thousands of people racing on live axles including Dana 60s.

My chassis is already built. subframes are tied together, lots of chassis bracing, quick ratio pitman arm, Hotchkiss dearched leafs, torsion bars, 1-3/8 front anti rollbar, 2 way adjustable shocks. Decent meats and disc brakes on all 4 corners. The list goes on. The car already handles well enough.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Thats hilarious. There's thousands of people racing on live axles including Dana 60s.

My chassis is already built. subframes are tied together, lots of chassis bracing, quick ratio pitman arm, Hotchkiss dearched leafs, torsion bars, 1-3/8 front anti rollbar, 2 way adjustable shocks. Decent meats and disc brakes on all 4 corners. The list goes on. The car already handles well enough.

Which you have never "road raced".
I know there was some subtly to my comment, but I was not addressing a live axle, I was disparaging a Dana 60 for road racing, as it makes little sense, but if your heart is set on it, good luck.

Glad to give you a chuckle

 

[lewtot184]

Clarify "cast" pistons. OEM or hypereutectic? Big difference. I don't have issues with hypereutectic, beat on them without problems, but never did a power adder. I do believe a forged piston an steel main caps make a lot of sense on a boosted engine. Of course tune up and valve timing will be critical for longevity.

 

[toolmanmike]

Build a stroker. No substitute for torque on a road course.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Build a stroker. No substitute for torque on a road course.

1. If you can get to the pavement, and most cannot
2. Most passing is at end of straightaway under braking accomplished mostly due to HP and drafting/aero.
3, I would still suggest building a stroker