Is there a better cam for me?

[cj's mopar]

Hello ,
I want get some opinion on the cam I am using currently and would I have been better off going with more upper Rpm range cam because of the motor specs.

Here is the build
400 bb Mopar block
440 crank
Ross pistons 1.730 deck height.
383 eagle rod
Stealth heads with better valve job and be hive springs .
Crane golds from the 90's
Smith bros push rods 5/16 ball and cup
Hughes 226 228 cam older hyd roller grind.

510 520 lift
Brand new six pack set up for induction
The engine is very snappy and has clean plugs .
Down low torque is kinda week imo.
Seems like this motor wants to RPM.
It is in a 69 super bee post car.
Hemi 4 speed
391 sure grip 83/4
I have attached best performance run on no prep no burn out run.
Cam is to mild for me but I don't want to strap with to much cam.
What does the guru's say?

 

[Derwud]

You could try playing with Cam timing.. If you want more low end, advance the Cam. More Top end? Retard the timing a couple of degrees. I bet you will find it might be retarded now.

 

[cj's mopar]

I did line up the dots I did not deg so that is possible.
Engine runs so good -but feels like tourqe
Down low is week.
I think the short rod motor needs to have more upper rpm cams too make The power. But I am not expert.
The car is heavy too that's why I went with small ish cam to keep torqe.
This thing will not turn the tires over from a roll.
Ignition timing is about 22 degrees inital and 38 degrees total
With lightest Mallory springs on the Advance weights
All in by 2200 no vac advance connected.

 

[Gunner1]

I’m running a 440, 10.5, stealths,rpm with 750dp. My cam is hyd ft 242@050 and 500 lift, 108 LSA. Boils the tires.

 

[496 polara]

The cam you have should make good low end. It is not a " large " cam. I would degree it and see where it is. Installing it at the recommended centerline if it is retarded should improve low end and midrange.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

If you have 1.5 cranes you might be able to switch to 1.6s. The cranes are decent property...sell them and get some 1.6 from mancini. Need to know more about your springs to know for sure if your springs can handle more lift, but that would be a easy upgrade.
It's also possible the cam is retarded and you are missing bottom end. As chains stretch with age it also retards the cam timing.
If it were mine I would be running more cam and more lift...especially with 3.90s.
It should run much better then it sounds like it does. Is the clutch slipping? Clutches have a torque rating. What clutch is in it?

 

[Geoff 2]

Seems odd that the engine is 'very snappy' but will not spin the tyres. Could the 4 speed be a close ratio box?

 

[Budnicks]

Cam retarded sound about right by descriptions

but could be other factors

How are you doing the burnout ?
Rear brakes too tight or draging ?
or not enough front brake... to hold it to get them going
It should roast them on a roll still

Even a turd stock 2bbl 383/400 smog motor will roast them

a rocker ratio like 1.6:1 will help some in performance
if cam installed right
1.6:1 ratios gives you a min. of 10% more lift across the board
over a stock stamped steel rocker
could still use them with a new cam too

Ignition timing could need some more advance too,
(edited; 38*s isn't too much total, 21* isn't too much initial either, depends on combo)
could have a distributor issue,
weak spark, crap coil, weak signal thru the wires or huge resistance (even if new)
or some other outlier

Still need to know where the cam timing is, really

 

[dvw]

So guessing it's .030" over which would be 450". If it wasn't decked and the heads are untouched (guessing at 7cc valve pocket) My bet is the compression is about 9.3-1. Untouched Stealths except a valve job my bet is 250-260 cfm. Heavy car, how heavy? if you are an average guy probably 3800-3900 in street trim. What tires? Good drag radials may not spin from a roll. On the other hand old Radial T/A's won't hook at all. The cam you have is probably not a poor choice. 104 mph seems low for this combo. I would think more like 110-112 mph. What type of exhaust system? How quick do the end carbs open? What lobe separation is the cam? More compression would help. But even without raising it there should be more left in it. My bet is there is something missing in the tune. A side note. Rod length means squat. Ask most top engine builders. Find a piston that works, pick your stroke, find a rod that connects the two. For comparision I have a 360 Challenger 4 speed (2.47 close ratio), ported factory heads, true 9.0-1 compression, LD 340 dual plane, 650 Holley, 220/224 hyd roller, TTI headers and 2 1/2" exhaust, 3.55, 275 drag radials. Weighs 3775 w/me. It's been 12.7@109
Doug

 

[gtxrt]

might not like all that timing. 38* timing is a lot try 34*. all in by 2200 rpm is crazy for a street car don't need that much especially with 22* initial timing. it could be pinging and you don't hear it.

 

[cj's mopar]

Wow I need some time to gather the answers to all the responded..thanks all !
I will find cam card info.

 

[cj's mopar]

 

[gtxrt]

in your first post you make it like it was a 226-228 duration. 228-236 is a good size street cam. a roller cam is a little bigger than a flat tappet at the same duration. I don't think the six pack helps bottom end either. really you have the best of both your not just sitting there spinning and then you said it starts turning on nice.

 

[cj's mopar]

Posted cam card above
Springs are comp cams on 26120
Be hive with tool steel retainers .
Stealth head have been shaved .060
Intake was Angle milled
I have lm2 af meter the idle is pretty clean around 13.2 to 13.5 at idle
Six pack w 64 jet in center carb.
Un touched out boards carbs
We're brand new Holley
Af ratio fourth gear full.throtle.pull is about 11.9 to 12.2 last checked .
Tire is 295. 55 r 15 Micky drag radial.
On heavy steel 15x10 .
I can rip the tires if I rev it up and dump clutch.
But let clutch out and.punch it I will just go.
Will not.spin at.all.
Running 1 7/8 headers tti.
Center force dual friction clutch
Hemi Speed
Been checking small rear main leak
Replaced twice since motor was.installed.spring of 22
We calculated compression with cam.timing. to be around 10 to 1
Pistons are very close to.zero deck
Running 6500rpm.blue ignition box
From rehengberg .
I just feel the car should be better.
It's not horrible.just for what we have in this build seems off.
Starting to think clutch is slipping but
If you go from 1st to 4 th I does not.seem torun away.
This is why I asked the question.
I am 54 I have had many Holley and tuned fine.
First six.pack.though

 

[RemCharger]

Sounds like you want a torque converter in there somewhere

 

[cj's mopar]

Forget some stuff I didn't rem the cam duration in my first post
I did not pick the cam
Hughes recommend per the build specs
It's my first hyd roller in a classic.
I always had flat tappet hyd.
Something just seems like to me off.

 

[cj's mopar]

I realize hard to figure out over computer.
Just looking wanted to hear the cam is not to small .

 

[RemCharger]

The good part is it's no big deal to swap cams.. slide a new one in and fire it back up

 

[451Mopar]

I would take the car to a Chassis Dyno and dyno test with O2 logging to see the transition from part throttle to WOT if the carbs need sone adjustments.
You could also try different amounts of ignition advance too.
The dyno chart will show where your torque and power curves are at.

 

[Mopar Miki]

Looks like another lazy big block stroker six pak that may be overcammed.
Six pak is not set up properly, too much jet and the outboards need to be touched.
Six pak Set up & Tune up is incorrect. A simple statement that means a lot. I am not here to fix this just to point the op in the right direction.
AFR is rich at idle, type of gas determines AFR. I bet the intake is very wet with fuel
Send us your car and we will tune it for you, typical charge starts at $750.00 + parts