Issues with 440 Source Oil Pan

[TexasRoadRunner68]

Has anyone else had issues with 440 Source oil pans? I have an 8 qt fabricated aluminum pan, and am having some figment issues.

Firstly, the holes for the pan bolts/studs don’t line up well. They say they are all test fitted prior to shipping and that they fit, but that they could use filing or grinding to fit easier.

Secondly, the pan is not flat. The rail where it mounts to the block is warped. This might have created part of the first issue. It obviously got too hot while tig welding. Their customer service has said this is “normal”, and that a fabricated pan that is similar and totally straight normally runs $800 or so. It’s clearly off by 1/4” on one end, or maybe it has a high center and 1/8” gap on each end. Either way, the straight edge shows it’s not straight. They say it pulls flat when torqued, I have not verified yet because the holes don’t line up, although they said it fit prior to shipping.

There is also some slag around the drain plug which will I will end up grinding down.

I spoke with them about the issues, they did offer an exchange with no restocking fee but it is store credit with me eating $40-50 in shipping.

Am I that out of line for thinking a moroso pan for $70 more would likely have none of these issues? They claim the only way to have it straight is to mill it after welding it, since that warps the rim.

Im not trying to bash 440 source, they have been great so far with parts and advice for my build. I was just underwhelmed in their response to these obvious issues.

At this point I’m likely going to try to make it fit and grind the bolt holes a bit, but I have no idea whether this will pull flat.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I would have done the return. I feel your pain.

 

[threewood]

Nope!!! I would return that pile of crap. Weld bead too close to bolt holes. Bolt holes out of alignment. Warping like that should not happen.

I bought a no name deep pan off ebay that is heads and tails better.

 

[WileE]

Wow... fabricated by a chinese drunk. It's a crap shoot nowadays with almost any and all parts.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

You should want what you paid for

 

[#41]

My guess is that their policy is once you mount it you own it... so don't. They are obviously reading off the script about them test fitting it.
Send it back and don't take no for an answer on refunding shipping. If you credit-carded it, that is another route to get your dough back.

 

[hunt2elk]

I would be sending that one back. Kind of surprised at how crappy it is. And I agree with the above post that as soon as you mount it or hog out a hole, it is yours for good.

 

[Breaker-1]

Either someone in the QC department is slacking, they don't have a QC department, or they outsource this part. I'm putting my $$ on option #3. This issue is obviously at no fault of the customer (you), and they need to issue a full refund, including shipping. I would ask to speak to a manager. If that doesn't get you the results you deserve, go higher!

 

[dvw]

I had hole issues with my Charlies pan. I also had hole issues with my I J crank scraper. Not sure why. It's a simple bolt pattern. That being said it wasn't the end of the world. Opened up the holes and went about installing the parts. As far as being warped. I'd bolt it down. Bet it flatens right out. The good thing about a BB mopar is the block itself is flat. So it's not hard to seal. Use Ultra Grey RTV and you could take the bolts out once it drys. The only reason I use a gasket is so it'll come off easy. Mines been welded up from wheel stands, rod exiting the bottom and side. I'm sure it's warped some. However bolted on it doesn't leak a drop. Price a Billet fab or Steffs pan. $$0 source is a bargin. Do check any fabbed pan for leaks. Fill it and let it set a day on dry paper towel.
Doug

 

[YY1]

Do the holes line up with the block?

Looks like the reference is the windage tray.

Does the windage tray line up with the block?

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

Do the holes line up with the block?

Looks like the reference is the windage tray.

Does the windage tray line up with the block?

Windage tray does, the oil pan does not.

 

[pnora]

Windage tray does, the oil pan does not.

Did you call 440 source first?

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

Did you call 440 source first?

I have been speaking with them. In all fairness, the bolt holes aren’t as far off as the photo suggests, but you would have to force it on and it’s going to make some aluminum shards which I don’t want going into my motor. However, the beads are close to several of the holes and the pan is definitely warped.

Maybe I can get this to work. It just seems like the QC isn’t where it should be.

I don’t put this out there to bash 440 source, as I have said I did source a bunch of parts from them and they have been otherwise very helpful. I would want others to be wary of these issues before trying one of these pans though…

 

[fullmetaljacket]

I have been speaking with them. In all fairness, the bolt holes aren’t as far off as the photo suggests, but you would have to force it on and it’s going to make some aluminum shards which I don’t want going into my motor. However, the beads are close to several of the holes and the pan is definitely warped.

Maybe I can get this to work. It just seems like the QC isn’t where it should be.

I don’t put this out there to bash 440 source, as I have said I did source a bunch of parts from them and they have been otherwise very helpful. I would want others to be wary of these issues before trying one of these pans though…

View attachment 1463737

What was the outcome of this? Did your pan eventually seal and flatten out?
Kinda sucks that the welding couldn't be done while rails are clamped flat to a jig in order to go through the welding heat to cold phase. Another way could be welding of the rails in intervals. One section at a time.

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

What was the outcome of this? Did your pan eventually seal and flatten out?
Kinda sucks that the welding couldn't be done while rails are clamped flat to a jig in order to go through the welding heat to cold phase. Another way could be welding of the rails in intervals. One section at a time.

I filed out the holes to make them work…and it did flatten out once the nuts were tightened down. It’s frustrating to have those issues for sure. Some studs are clearly under more tension than others. Supposedly all were test fitted on an engine there, but my oil pan studs didn’t all line up exactly…some needed slight modification to get it to slide on and off.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

I filed out the holes to make them work…and it did flatten out once the nuts were tightened down. It’s frustrating to have those issues for sure. Some studs are clearly under more tension than others. Supposedly all were test fitted on an engine there, but my oil pan studs didn’t all line up exactly…some needed slight modification to get it to slide on and off.

Thank you. Yes, frustrating indeed. I was on the fence with 440, but decided to go elsewhere with a pan or I might just stay with the steel pan that I have.

 

[lewtot184]

As an old retired sheet metal worker I've built a bunch of pans for other people and my self. When building a pan from scratch the fly in the ointment is the corner radius. The easiest way is to use a 1 1/2" wide flange in the front and back while keeping the 1" flange on the sides. I'm not a fan of aluminum pans. They can be flimsy and the gasket flange is too easy to distort. Any pan should be clamped to a table or bolted on a block for final welding after being tacked together first.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

As an old retired sheet metal worker I've built a bunch of pans for other people and my self. When building a pan from scratch the fly in the ointment is the corner radius. The easiest way is to use a 1 1/2" wide flange in the front and back while keeping the 1" flange on the sides. I'm not a fan of aluminum pans. They can be flimsy and the gasket flange is too easy to distort. Any pan should be clamped to a table or bolted on a block for final welding after being tacked together first.

I totally agree. I'm not a welder, but a friend of mine who is a certified military grade welder agrees also with you Lew. We always clamp or jig up the items for tack welding, and then we run the full beads, sometimes all in one shot or in time intervals to limit the heat. Perfect every time.