It's finally happening!

[wasco]

I dropped off the 383 short block at the machine shop for a "slightly better than stock" rebuild, shooting for around 400hp. Nothing crazy, just want a fun, reliable cruiser. I've pretty much decided to get the Sidewinder heads from Marsh Performance, not sure what camshaft to get or if the one in it will be reused. I don't know the specs on what's in there. I've been buying stuff for the car for the last four years without having a "plan", so I have a 1411 Edelbrock 750 I'll need to rebuild, a Performer intake, a complete gasket set and a four speed setup. Any suggestions on which camshaft to get or if the one it has can be used, assuming it's a stock or slightly better than stock grind? I'm beginning to suspect the Performer intake might hinder the heads too much? If they end up boring the block to .060, are the .040 pistons worth anything in resale? I don't think it has many miles on the last rebuild, has a barely noticeable ridge, but I didn't want to spend all the time and waste a gasket set and have it end up being a smoker or something. Help me out here, oh wise ones! Remember - I'm going for a stout cruiser build, not some 500hp monster that I can only drive around town. I'd like to take this on back-road trips now and then, although the 833 might need to get a Passion 4th gear for true highway cruising. It's a 3.08 open rear, but I wouldn't mind a sure grip with similar or higher gearing in the near future. And yes, I (or the shop) will be painting the block the proper turquoise, but I think I'll be keeping the aluminum heads and intake natural color? It will have black headers and I think maybe the black Mopar Performance valve covers, although if I end up painting the heads and intake, I'll use stock valve covers to complete the stock look. Thoughts? Insults? Scoldings?

 

[Red63440]

These always look nice...

 

[wasco]

These always look nice.....

View attachment 1008347
View attachment 1008348

Wow, that's a beauty! The machine shop said it would take them "about two weeks" to do the short block, so I have to get busy ordering whatever camshaft, heads and maybe intake I'll need! With the black headers, I think I'll repaint the MP valve covers black, but that engine of yours looks GOOD!

 

[Red63440]

That was in a 63 Dodge 440, that too was a 383. You will be fine, just make it "yours".

 

[Bee1971]

I guess I don’t understand what 500 HP can only drive around town actually means ?

Anyways

How much money do you want to spend on pistons , cleaning up the crankshaft etc. how are the connecting rods

When in reality a little more can get you a very reliable , driven every day , Street cruiser anywhere you want to go , idle all day long and 450/500 HP fits this bill perfectly and easily

Stroker 432 or 496

 

[wasco]

A 432 stroker kit would be awesome, but don't think it would be a "little" more than keeping the stock crank and buying new bearings and pistons. Correct me if I'm wrong. $2299 for the stroker kit - maybe $1000 for new pistons and bearings? But hey, if the crank turns out to be bad, you might have a point. People who have been there, let us know: reconditioned rods, crank, new bearings and pistons compared to a stroker kit cost-wise? It just seems way overkill for what I'm after when I read "rated to 1000 horsepower". That's nice, but more than twice what I need to worry about.

 

[wasco]

I guess I don’t understand what 500 HP can only drive around town actually means ?

I just have it in my ‘stuck in the 80s’ mentality that 500hp is ‘crazy power’ you only need on a drag strip. Sure, it would be fun around town but cruising down the highway or for a daily driver I just think it’s more than I need. But I guess it’s so easy to get to 500hp these days that the bar has been raised a bit. What’s the ‘go-to’ amount of HP considered these days, 600-700hp? Maybe I’m looking at this wrong, probably.

 

[MoparDanMan]

I dropped off the 383 short block at the machine shop for a "slightly better than stock" rebuild, shooting for around 400hp. Nothing crazy, just want a fun, reliable cruiser. I've pretty much decided to get the Sidewinder heads from Marsh Performance, not sure what camshaft to get or if the one in it will be reused. I don't know the specs on what's in there. I've been buying stuff for the car for the last four years without having a "plan", so I have a 1411 Edelbrock 750 I'll need to rebuild, a Performer intake, a complete gasket set and a four speed setup. Any suggestions on which camshaft to get or if the one it has can be used, assuming it's a stock or slightly better than stock grind? I'm beginning to suspect the Performer intake might hinder the heads too much? If they end up boring the block to .060, are the .040 pistons worth anything in resale? I don't think it has many miles on the last rebuild, has a barely noticeable ridge, but I didn't want to spend all the time and waste a gasket set and have it end up being a smoker or something. Help me out here, oh wise ones! Remember - I'm going for a stout cruiser build, not some 500hp monster that I can only drive around town. I'd like to take this on back-road trips now and then, although the 833 might need to get a Passion 4th gear for true highway cruising. It's a 3.08 open rear, but I wouldn't mind a sure grip with similar or higher gearing in the near future. And yes, I (or the shop) will be painting the block the proper turquoise, but I think I'll be keeping the aluminum heads and intake natural color? It will have black headers and I think maybe the black Mopar Performance valve covers, although if I end up painting the heads and intake, I'll use stock valve covers to complete the stock look. Thoughts? Insults? Scoldings?

View attachment 1008314 View attachment 1008315

Sounds like you have a great plan.

 

[blue69runner]

Wish you luck on the motor. I decided to stay as stock as possible with a 383. Last I was told was around 2000 thou to have new piston's and push rods. Also new valve's and springs. Seal kit a long with new spring's. Bored 30 over. Those new part's are not cheap but still like you have to see what every thing look's like in the motor.

 

[Darter6]

wasco, any idea what the machine shop estimate is to do the work ?
I plan on doing a "B" engine soon.

 

[wasco]

wasco, any idea what the machine shop estimate is to do the work ?
I plan on doing a "B" engine soon.

I have asked for a rebuild quote once they have the block torn down and everything checks out as rebuildable. I’ll let you know!

 

[Challenger340]

I guess I don’t understand what 500 HP can only drive around town actually means ?

Anyways

How much money do you want to spend on pistons , cleaning up the crankshaft etc. how are the connecting rods

When in reality a little more can get you a very reliable , driven every day , Street cruiser anywhere you want to go , idle all day long and 450/500 HP fits this bill perfectly and easily

Stroker 432 or 496

Not so fast......
There are always trade-offs with most everything you do in life.... including Engines.

Knowledge to 'informed' decisions being paramount.....
and specific to the 432 or 496 in the B Blocks is the very short ~1.32" Compression Distance Pistons, that in the 'El Cheapo source stroker Kits are constructed using 2618 Alloy Piston Forgings.... which require more Piston to Wall clrc than 4032 forgings and typically result in audible Piston Slap noise that can be annoying to people in Mufflered Vehicles ?
Not to mention the OP's Machine Shop may NOT have a BB Mopar T/Plate for Cylinder Honing which may compound the underhood Piston clearance noise problem ?
Also,
keep in mind there can be HUGE difference on 'demand' applied to Vehicle/Engine support systems when moving from a 400hp/383 based Engine to 450-500hp Stroker Engines ? Fuel Line upgrades and delivery back to front.... larger cooling/Radiator capacities..... Exhaust....
just say'in....
factoring in ALL the Factors and Cost considerations is paramount to good decisions...... and probably even a few I've missed here far beyond the very simple Machining costs to a 383 rebuild vrs going Stroker...... it's just NOT that simple !

Maybe the OP is in fact concerned with.... and places a high value on a dead nuts quiet running Engine wherein the short skirt 432/496 strokers are probably NOT Rec'd ? especially when Machined without a BB Mopar T/Plate ? and getting an Engine as close to 'drop in' compatible with the Car's stock Radiator/Cooling and Fuel Delivery Systems as possible without major($$) upgrades.... wherein again the 432/496 route may not be best ?

 

[wyrmrider]

so do you really need a bore and new pistons on a low mile rebuild
do not think cam till you:
know your true compression
know the rpm range you want to run
head flows
what gas
build for quench

 

[wasco]

so do you really need a bore and new pistons on a low mile rebuild
do not think cam till you:
know your true compression
know the rpm range you want to run
head flows
what gas
build for quench

We'll see what they find, but I could only just notice a ridge with my fingertip and couldn't quite catch it with my fingernail, so I think it only needs a hone. Likewise, I would expect the crank to only need polishing, but we'll have to wait and see what their micrometers find. As far as compression, he was thinking around 10:1 with the flattop pistons and closed chamber aluminum heads. I'm going to call Marsh Performance today to see if they can get a set of heads to me and what camshaft they'd recommend. It think it would probably be a good idea to go with a cam/lifter/timing set kit so Marsh can install the springs, but I guess the machine shop can do that as well. There will hopefully be lots of news by the end of the week!

 

[wasco]

I should provide a little more info: I do have headers to use, and don't plan on anything larger than 2.5 inch exhaust. I don't want a dead quiet running engine, I want it to sound good, but not too loud. Maybe a slightly lopey idle, but not too aggressive. Toned and refined muscle, rather than Mr. Universe muscle. I think the car will attract enough attention without a lot of noise.

 

[Challenger340]

I should provide a little more info: I do have headers to use, and don't plan on anything larger than 2.5 inch exhaust. I don't want a , I want it to sound good, but not too loud. Maybe a slightly lopey idle, but not too aggressive. Toned and refined muscle, rather than Mr. Universe muscle. I think the car will attract enough attention without a lot of noise.

As long as you aware of the distinction between Forged Piston TICKING/KNOCKING sound/slap/noise that typically emanates from a 432/496 BB Mopar Stroker Engine because of the short-skirt Pistons used in those ? Especially when Cylinders are Honed without a BB Mopar Torque-Plate your local Machine Shop doesn't have....
and,
the lumpy idle/Cam sound you may be referencing as a "dead quiet running engine" ?
Then you are informed and 'good to go'

explanation here:

 

[wasco]

Yeah, the whole stroker motor thing is not my bag.

 

[wyrmrider]

We'll see what they find, but I could only just notice a ridge with my fingertip and couldn't quite catch it with my fingernail, so I think it only needs a hone. Likewise, I would expect the crank to only need polishing, but we'll have to wait and see what their micrometers find. As far as compression, he was thinking around 10:1 with the flattop pistons and closed chamber aluminum heads. I'm going to call Marsh Performance today to see if they can get a set of heads to me and what camshaft they'd recommend. It think it would probably be a good idea to go with a cam/lifter/timing set kit so Marsh can install the springs, but I guess the machine shop can do that as well. There will hopefully be lots of news by the end of the week!

Flat top pistons at 0 deck is most likely going to give you much more compression
BVVC
Marsh will need more info for a cam (converter, gears, what's the use, etc
can you get the head flows
do not worry about the timing set
do worry about the springs- do they come with the heads?
cheers

 

[wasco]

Marsh will need more info for a cam (converter, gears, what's the use, etc
do worry about the springs- do they come with the heads?
cheers

"What's the use?" I read that funny, but I know what you mean. I figured on getting one of those cam/springs kits so the timing set can certainly come later. I assume Marsh would put the springs on and then ship the heads with the cam from the kit for the machine shop to install, but I haven't spoken with Todd yet. I emailed and then left a voice message, and he said he would get back to me. I was planning on flat top pistons and zero deck but maybe get valve reliefs just in case I want a higher lift cam later? It's going to be a four speed with a 23 spline 833 and eventually a sure grip in the low 3:1 ratio. Maybe even a 2.76 since they seem to be pretty cheap but the car will see way more in-town, back road driving than highway so maybe 3.23 or so.

 

[wasco]

I'm getting anxious to get some new heads ordered, and Todd from Marsh Performance hasn't had a chance to get back to me. Have the problems with the Stealth heads been corrected? Do they still need to have the locks and retainers replaced and has the quality control improved so they really could be bolted on after a quick inspection at the machine shop? I'm going to take the old 516 heads over there today to see if the valve springs might have been replaced with the camshaft during the last rebuild. Would you reuse the camshaft and valve springs if they were good?