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JamieZ's 68 Charger

JamieZ

Well-Known Member
Local time
3:40 AM
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Ohio
I've expanded my mopar stable by adding a 1968 Dodge Charger to my 1974 Challenger (you can find information on the Challenger at the following location: http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=77949.0 ).

I purchased it in the Detroit area of MI and then drove it 200 miles home to Ohio. It was a bit of a white knuckle experience as it is an early 68 with no shoulder belts, no head rests, manual drums on all 4 corners, and an Inland shifter. It survived the drive without any real issues.

She's a good running/driving car that just needs a little TLC to get it back to a nice cruise/weekend car. None of the gauges appear to work consistently other than the ammeter and the clock of all things. The temp gauge sometimes works. The Tach seems to work but some times starts at 4k instead of 0. Fuel sometimes works...but I have no idea if it it's accurate. Temp does the same thing. Oil pressure is just dead. Speedo was reading 100-120 when I was doing 60 and waving all over the place. So....dash needs to come out.

The grill needs some work. Some cracked pieces (though none of them visible). The hideaway doors don't work, but they aren't connected correctly. So the grill needs to come out.

It was an AC car (rare for a 383 4 speed I'm told). The AC was removed, but all the big pieces were in the trunk (compressor, hoses, etc). I'd like to rebuild/replace that at some point, but that's a down the road type of thing.

Mechanically it seems pretty solid. The oil looks good (but I'll change it just to be sure) and my mechanical gauge put it between 35-40 psi at idle. The brakes are good, so it stops, but it's a manual drum car so it still doesn't stop all that well. A conversion to at least front discs, possibly front boosted discs is in the future.

The suspension looks pretty past it, with rubber parts that may be original. So during the winter I'll have to do a rebuild at least the front. I'll probably put new adjustable shocks on it as well to improve the ride quality.

It has an Inland shifter in it. The amount of slop was incredible, but I had read that was a common complaint about the Inland "guess-a-gear". I took it apart this morning to get some measurements for the grommets (which probably failed decades ago) and discovered the top bolt of the 3 was missing. I put a spare bolt I had laying around the garage and that really tightened things up.

And here are some pictures:
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Very nice, enjoy your new ride. Where at in Ohio are you?
 
I love it, great looking ride and it appears to be in nice shape. I love the white interior now a days. I whisked my charger had the white interior. Good luck and enjoy.
 
I always liked the Challengers but man, that is one beauty of a Charger! Love that shade of blue..
 
Been working on getting the car legal (fun at the BMV) and collecting parts before starting any of the larger projects. But I did find time to pull off the shifter knob and give it a bit of a touch up.

Before:
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After:
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Needs a little clean up and maybe another coat, but for now I'm happy with how it looks.
 
Spent the week visiting the BMV and getting the car transferred and plated. Once that was done I changed the oil. The oil that came out of it looked pretty good, but that Fram filter had to go. So out with the old in with the new:
oilchange_zpsadf83e72.jpg

A Wix and 5q of Brad Penn.

Next up...taking the dash off and trouble shooting the gauges. I have a new solid state voltage limiter ready to swap in and a speedo cable to replace the melted one.
 
Since I got the VIN inspection done, I no longer need to drive the car so I took a deep breath and pulled out the dash to try and trouble shoot the gauge issues. I pulled it, inspected it, then swapped the voltage limiter with an RT Engineering one and put it back in hoping it would fix everything.

vlswap_zpse06c6783.jpg


It didn't :( I know the speedo cable is bad, and a new one should arrive next week. I ordered a tach rebuild kit (also for RT Engineering). As for the oil/temp/fuel gauges, I disconnected them and did a quick test with the 9V battery. All of them sweep so that's good. So I pulled the printed circuit board and cleaned all the contacts.

printedboard_zps89e5aee2.jpg


After cleaning, I tested every contact with the ohm meter and got good readings from them all. So I reassembled the cluster and did a quick test with the 9v using the pins. All of the gauges sweep. I even tested the lights and they work as well.

I think I'll manufacture a temp harness to go from the plugs in the harness to the gauges and then run a ground wire. That should allow me to test the cluster without having to reinstall it.
 
welcome fellow Buckeye. beautiful Charger. I had a '68 R/T for close to 20 years.
 
Well I wired up an extended harness (thick speaker wire for the alternator and grounds, 5 regular sized wires for the rest of the cluster) and hooked up the dash on the passenger seat while I started the car.

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Success!

The fuel gauge seems low and I didn't run the car to get it to temp but the needle was climbing. Oil pressure matches what I got on my mechanical gauge I had hooked up last week.

Now I just need to rebuild the tach and install some better switches :)
 
Nice looking Charger. You might want to think about making the wiring change and bypass the amp guage while the dash is out.
 
Nice looking charger good job looks like your taking it to the next level
 
Spent the week messing with the tach. I swapped in a RT Engineering board but I just couldn't make it work. So I ended up just biting the bullet and ordering a new one. I also ordered a replacement voltage regulator, just in case that was part of the problem. I hooked everything up and ...
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Functional tach (not the best picture but it's within 50 RPM of my timing light's read out).

Since I've had the dash out of the car for a while, I set the dash up to run remotely.
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The tach and all the small gauges work with it sitting in the car like this. I also decided since it was apart I'd swap in LEDs. They should show up next week. All I am waiting on now is some replacement switches and I should be able to put everything back together.



Next up.....carb swap!
 
My plan was to swap the carb this week....didn't turn out that way. I hooked up a timing light, vac gage, etc to figure out where everything was at before doing the swap. I discovered a few things. First the idle was very low (450 ish) which had the vac all over the map and pretty rough idle. I adjusted it up and that smoothed everything out. I also discovered that the choke is working....but it never puts the carb onto the fast idle circuit. I'm guessing that the last time it was rebuilt the linkage wasn't assembled quite right.

I was having trouble with the timing light and poking around I discovered the battery voltage was climbing excessively (15v+) . A few tests and I discovered the ground of the VR and the negative side of the battery weren't 0 ohms. I immediately suspected the ground strap because...it looked pretty bad:
groundstrap_zps3d0e4e4e.jpg

I shut everything down, cleaned all the connections, and then everything that should be ground was...or so I thought. Next time I started the car I had the same problem....and I had resistance between the negative battery cable, and the ground strap. Eventually I discovered that the problem is only apparent when the door is open (dome light, map light, etc) or when the key is in the run position. I spent the day trouble shooting it, and have discovered that each light on the circuit (dome light, trunk light, glove box, map light, cigar lighter adds more and more resistance. I've disconnected everything except the wires to the dome light and the problem remains....so they are my next stop. Hopefully that will fix my run circuit problem as well.

I also received some bushings for my Inland shifter. One of my friends machined a set up for me. I did a little fine tuning and pressed them in with a vice. Now the dreaded shifter slop is gone!

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It was a nice break from hunting electrical gremlins.
 
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