• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Jegs sports star rims, 5/8 wheel studs

Mally69

Well-Known Member
Local time
8:15 AM
Joined
Aug 12, 2015
Messages
75
Reaction score
42
Location
punxsutawney
Have any of you used these rims???Planning on buying a set of these, in 15x8 4.5 bs. Or 15x10 5.5 bs. And running a 295/65-15 tire. On my 69 Bee. Now Im not sure but i have about 700hp 512 cu.in wedge. But i think i need to run 5/8 wheel studs. How do i go about this.??? Will those wheels fit 5/8 studs? Do i need to have them opened up?? What do you guys normally do when it comes to upgrading to bigger studs???
JEGS 66171: Sport Star 5-Spoke Wheel [Size: 15" x 8"] Polished Lip with Black Spokes - JEGS High Performance
 
Well, step one, do you have screw-in studs in your axles now? The big studs screw into the axles.
Since they have to neck down to 1/2x20 (unless you have axles drilled for 5/8) I don't see the point. Quality 1/2x20x3" studs should be fine.
Plus, the wheels you are looking at use conical nuts, they may not have the stud holes drilled big enough for 5/8 studs. I would not be a bit surprised if they don't.
I would just get the best 1/2x20 3" studs I could find 5hat work with the axles you've got. I think Doug Wright puts 900+hp though his, enough that his wheels cracked, but the studs didn't break.
 
Well, step one, do you have screw-in studs in your axles now? The big studs screw into the axles.
Since they have to neck down to 1/2x20 (unless you have axles drilled for 5/8) I don't see the point. Quality 1/2x20x3" studs should be fine.
Plus, the wheels you are looking at use conical nuts, they may not have the stud holes drilled big enough for 5/8 studs. I would not be a bit surprised if they don't.
I would just get the best 1/2x20 3" studs I could find 5hat work with the axles you've got. I think Doug Wright puts 900+hp though his, enough that his wheels cracked, but the studs didn't break.
Hmmm well that would be a relief if i can use 1/2 studs , that would save alot of messing around . I have the dana 60 I dont have the axles yet even, i need to get the 35 spline axles with a detroit locker. I just liked those wheels and wasnt sure about the stud size. Thought they needed to be upgraded due to the power level. Ill def have street slicks on the car.
 
With my Jegs Sport Stars I had to look closely to find the correct combo of length and spline to fit my hubs. The rear was easy, fronts not so much. But they are out there. I used 1/2 inch with the conical lugs.

Edit: My rear is a Dana 60 also. It has Moser axels press in studs. A good quality 1/2" stud can handle a lot of power, torque and traction.
 
Last edited:
One other thing. The big studs screw into the axles from the wheel side, so they can be loosened taking the lugs off.
Normal 1/2x20 screw-in studs screw in from the axle side, so removing the lugs tends to tighten the studs. I like the idea of a stud with a head against the inside of the axle better.
 
The 5/8" studs do screw into the axle. But they have a thin nut on the rear face to prevent loosening. I ran 1/2" studs for 750 passes on my drag car. 1.2x 60ft@3350lbs. Never an issue. We did go to 5/8" this year. The clamp load of the stud provides friction between the axle, rotor/drum, and wheel. The stud itself does not drive the wheel. The larger stud is torqued higher (130lb/ft vs 90lb/ft) providing more clamp load. The only time we've had issue with 1/2" is with steel factory wheels. They have very little surface area against the rotor face. This caused the stud to bend. This was on boost, trans brake, drag radials and a 3800lb car.. The worst possible senario. You should be fin with 1/2"
Doug
 
The 5/8" studs do screw into the axle. But they have a thin nut on the rear face to prevent loosening. I ran 1/2" studs for 750 passes on my drag car. 1.2x 60ft@3350lbs. Never an issue. We did go to 5/8" this year. The clamp load of the stud provides friction between the axle, rotor/drum, and wheel. The stud itself does not drive the wheel. The larger stud is torqued higher (130lb/ft vs 90lb/ft) providing more clamp load. The only time we've had issue with 1/2" is with steel factory wheels. They have very little surface area against the rotor face. This caused the stud to bend. This was on boost, trans brake, drag radials and a 3800lb car.. The worst possible senario. You should be fin with 1/2"
Doug
Thank you guys. I appretiate the help. Im glad i dont have to worry about the stud swap now..
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top