Just bought a 71 Charger... going to a 5.7 I think

[Bad B-rad]

Thanks Jerry, do you remember where you got it, or what it is called?

 

[70chall440]

70chall440, I agree with you 100% on above statement.
The 6.4 is so expensive, over the 5.7, and as far as the 6.1, they are great, but again for the price, unless you plan on running forced induction, IMO the 5.7 is the way to go.
I am gonna experiment with running the eagle heads(65cc chamber) on a non vvt short block.
The heads flow better, and I can use the 6.4 intake, or the 2009+ car intake. I am excited for you.
I know some guys don't like they way they look, but you cant see that from the driver seat, LOL!!!

I think you have a great plan, and I really cant wait to hear about how you execute it!
My broke ***, would be forced to use stock K- frame with a motor mount kit, and TTI headers with a new Borgeson steering box, with adaptor so I wont have to cut column.
The only thing I have not figured out is how to use the 727 auto with out the use of throttle valve(because of throttle by wire).
A manual trans would be great, but again, because of cost, i would have to stick to automatic.

Thanks for the comments. I will be using a stock K member, not sure about the steering box mainly because I have never done this swap, if it requires the smaller box then so be it. Likewise I don't know about exhaust but undoubtedly it will require TTI headers (don't they all).

I am going manual because the car comes with a A833, bell housing (albeit its for a BB), shifter, etc. I have done some looking and I have read that the input shaft has to be shortened by like 3/4"?

I don't know what I am going to use for a throw-out bearing or the clutch linkage, I am thinking hydraulic TB but haven't got that far into the planning.

The car will need body and paint work before it can be assembled but I am thinking that I am going to get an engine and try and mock it all up before paint (or body work for that matter).

 

[Jerry Hall]

Thanks Jerry, do you remember where you got it, or what it is called?

It was built very early when this just was getting going. XV motorsports is where I got a few things. All I know is it was stated to be the drive by wire control for an automatic. It works perfectly and I have never looked back. I just followed the instructions on setup. I'm using the stock K frame, just notched for the A/C compressor in stock car location. Custom fabricated motor mounts, oil pan, and headers. Stock power steering box is still in place. Clearance from a header tube to the stock steering box is only about a credit card thickness, but works.

 

[70chall440]

It was built very early when this just was getting going. XV motorsports is where I got a few things. All I know is it was stated to be the drive by wire control for an automatic. It works perfectly and I have never looked back. I just followed the instructions on setup. I'm using the stock K frame, just notched for the A/C compressor in stock car location. Custom fabricated motor mounts, oil pan, and headers. Stock power steering box is still in place. Clearance from a header tube to the stock steering box is only about a credit card thickness, but works.

What is your 5.7 out of?

 

[Jerry Hall]

The 5.7 car is a 2009 Charger VVT engine. It has had a cam change for no VVT. It had 2500 miles when pulled.
The 6.1 car is a 2010 crate engine. No 6.1 engines were VVT. It is bone stock.

 

[70chall440]

The 5.7 car is a 2009 Charger VVT engine. It has had a cam change for no VVT. It had 2500 miles when pulled.
The 6.1 car is a 2010 crate engine. No 6.1 engines were VVT. It is bone stock.

Thanks, I appreciate it. I am trying to figure out what 5.7 to look for (if there is a better choice).

 

[Jerry Hall]

Thanks, I appreciate it. I am trying to figure out what 5.7 to look for (if there is a better choice).

The 5.7 car is torn down right now. I'm adding A/C and the Marsh Pulley system. It has a TKO 5 speed transmission and the last road trip before I tore it down it got 28.8 mpg from Wetumpka Alabama to Mobile Alabama and back. 3:55 gears and 70 mph is 1600 rpms.

 

[70chall440]

The 5.7 car is torn down right now. I'm adding A/C and the Marsh Pulley system. It has a TKO 5 speed transmission and the last road trip before I tore it down it got 28.8 mpg from Wetumpka Alabama to Mobile Alabama and back. 3:55 gears and 70 mph is 1600 rpms.

Thats awesome, thanks.

 

[furious70]

IMO 2016+ truck.
Best intake manifold, improved lifters, no ps pump provision, better accessories mounting.
Put the stock 392 cam in it, no need to pay for comp.
MS3 gold box.
That's what I'm doing, with a 76mm turbo.

 

[furious70]

I am seeing some bge's get cheaper though, so you could consider the truck 6.4 with cam swap as well, I just don't need the cubes with the lung.

 

[F4R/T]

I personally prefer the 6.1, straight up engine no nonsense makes it simple and more reliable in my opinion, yes I do have one in a Challenger and it has a 2.3 eddy s/c with custom tune on it and it’s been great. I like the non mds/ vvt engines better. I’ve been in a bunch of the new 5.7s primarily for lifter and cam failures .. I think maintenance is key on them, for me they would fail around 7-8k engine run hours and the lifters that failed were random. They are pricey to repair but run very well, and are engineered very well. The cam failures were on fleet trucks with little to few oil changes and idled 16 plus hours a day.. I know others had the same problem under different circumstances but I don’t know what. I do like the light weight of them and the power is great. I still prefer old iron though for more reasons simplicity! The only other thing I’ve been warned is if the epa enforces the requirements on new engines in old cars it could get interesting and some have rumored that it could happen.. so your 70 dart powered by a 2010 5.7 now has to be as clean as the car it came from—but who knows what will happen build and go worry about it later

 

[69 GTX]

70 challl440, you have some very nice cars.

 

[70chall440]

70 challl440, you have some very nice cars.

Thank you, its been a labor of love (with lots of frustration at times). I became a Mopar guy at the tender age of 14 when I got a ride in the back of a 69 RR (no backseat for some reason) that was jacked up, had minimal exhaust and a big cam... I was hooked and have been ever since. I had a lot hiatus while I was in the military. I came back from overseas in 2000 and knew I was going to retire in this location and subsequently decided to get back into the hobby. I had to take out a personal loan for $5K which is what I bought my 70 Challenger RT with, that was a huge shock as IMO it was barely a parts car yet cost that much (my memory was 20 years old and i was thinking it should have cost like $500). I cobbled that car together as best as I could learning more than I thought possible about a wide variety of subjects not the least of was body work and paint because I could not afford to pay someone to do it. That car is all together but is far from perfect. The second car I built was the 73 Cuda and there I did way more, built my own 4 link system, built all of the brake system, built the electrical system, built a new instrument cluster using Speedhut gauges that resembles a stock rally cluster. I did all of the body and paint on that car as well which included replacing both quarters, trunk floor, etc. I learned a lot building that car.

Along the way I found time to build a 52 Dodge PU with a 56 Desoto 330 ci Hemi in it in addition to several other minor repairs/builds such as a 98 Dodge 3500 diesel, 76 Dodge D700 2/5 ton truck, etc. All of this has also allowed me to amass a lot of tools and equipment which allows me to be essentially self sufficient.

 

[69 GTX]

Love the truck, a friend has the same set truck & hemi! So cool.

 

[Cojohnso1]

So, I bought a 71 Charger last week and got a very good deal on it. I was never a huge fan of them (or subsequent years) but over time I began to warm up to them and since this one was a smoking deal, I am even more in favor of them.

It is completely disassembled but all pretty much there. It was a 318 B5 AC PB PS car originally but I intend to do something else with it; it comes with a date correct 71 383 cast crank engine but I believe I am going to go G3 Hemi with a 4 speed (A833). I don't have pictures yet but will post some later.

My intention right now is to make is a Superbee clone/tribute with a 5.7 but I am still thinking about it. I will keep it blue but probably not B5. It does have a bulge hood (which I am told is a 72 hood) but will probably put an air grabber on it. It comes with a 3.23 SG which I think will work behind the 5.7 and A833.

I need to do some research about which 5.7 I need to be looking for and what else I am going to need (specifically wiring harness and PCM).

I'm coming around to the "Coke bottle" design of 71-74 too. And because its an original 318? No sin making a custom or resto. Are you planning crate? Or build a Gen 3 yourself?

 

[70chall440]

I'm coming around to the "Coke bottle" design of 71-74 too. And because its an original 318? No sin making a custom or resto. Are you planning crate? Or build a Gen 3 yourself?

I am not sure yet, but I doubt it will be a crate motor as they tend to be a bit on the expensive side. I am not looking to make it a high HP car, rather a real nice retro driver. It will be blue again but probably not B5 exactly. Lots of options, we will see.

 

[69 GTX]

I saw a new Big Horn Ram truck today that was real close to B5, maybe just a little darker, it was stunning.

 

[70chall440]

I will probably be using a TC Global blue of some type

 

[70chall440]

The car is coming with a 72 Rally hood (so I am told) but I want to run a AG hood. I am being told that the 72 hood cannot be made into a AG hood? Maybe I need to sell the hood and get a new AMD hood.

 

[Magnes]

Although not exactly the same, I've done several LS swaps at the shops I work for and always wanted to try one of these swaps. I saw you mention fabbing and fitting everything before bodywork is started, that is key from my experience. We've had to set and pull engines and trans multiple times to get the clearances necessary. Not something you want to do on a painted or even bodyworked car. You want that thing to go in smooth and easy, no surprises.

The other thing I would suggest is to consider rewiring the entire car while you're at this. There's a lot of sketchy electrical **** on these things, even if you buy all new stock style harnesses. Plan out how you're going to do it and weld up any unnecessary holes in your firewall, you can drill what you need before or after you paint it. I usually do it after. You end up with a much cleaner and professional install. No wires running all over the damn place. I've always used the Painless harnesses (but others are available) and although unrolling an entire harness seems a bit daunting at first, in a few days you know every single circuit first hand. Every wire is marked. Allows you to plan the route so shits nice, clean, and perfectly in place which eases in the installation of your engine/trans management system. It usually takes me a week or less to wire in everything and that's even including the goofy **** like radio, speakers, power windows, locks, Vintage Air, Dakota digi gauges, etc.... but then end result is flawless operation and that **** is key. Don't want to be chasing electrical gremlins. Once everything is in, routed, bundled (a billion little zip ties come in handy), wrap it with some nice wire loom like the Painless Powerbraid.

I mean for what I do, it's all about fit, finish, and quality for the customer. Some guys swap, hack, bang the **** out of stuff and have great fun with that but from what I see of your stuff, you aren't that guy. Anyway, just something else to consider.