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Just Curious' 74 Charger SE 318 to 440

Jsmooth,

Now where would the fun be in buying one that is complete? hard to know what expenses were spared by the first guy who "fixed it up" too.

My buddy bought a primed ready to go roller Chevelle and has so far had to replace the entire floor, hood and rear quarters. The previous guy did a terrible job.

I'm not too worried about the price, I originally thought I would have 40k into it anyway. It is very awesome to know that it seems like I can come under that budget too! The only thing that will be outsourced is paint/body work the rest I can do.

I would love to have a copy of that spread sheet to look at the companies used (if on there) and what it took cost wise for different aspects of the build.

Here is what it cost me so far around $7,300 I still have Wilwood brakes to add doing them next week for $1500, some electrical also, plus paint (not sure what it costs yet, I have quotes from $3K to $8K). Did most the job with a mobile mechanic in my driveway, shop I use was too busy so I just hired a mobile guy.

We fixed all the floor pans some light rust, and the trunk pan was all redone with a new pan. Restored the front grill, did all the wiring for the speakers ready for a system now, lots of touch up stuff. Touched up all the metal inside that needed new paint like the metal on the dash etc. Replaced window cranks and small items like light bulbs etc...Around 120-130 hrs. of work in total.


Carpet $228.36
Door Locks $61.58
Passenger Side Mirror $99.96
Trunk Pan $461.09
Car Speakers $87.49
Car Seats Reholstry $900
Heat & Sound Insulation $139.29
Mirror Dash Cam with Camera $93.05
Brain Ferrael (Mechanic) $480
Raptor Spray $54.71
Chrome Cleaner $16.37
Door Sills $76.65
New Tail Lights $128.41
New Dash $394.12
J3 Auto Repair $408.52
J3 Auto Repair $355.69
J3 Auto Repair $301.01
Quality Vintage Steering Wheel $115
Brake Booster & Master Cylinder $500
Mis. Sheet metal, Equpment Rentals. $150
J3 Auto Repair $886
J3 Auto Repair $660
J3 Auto Repair $600

Engine, Transmission, and Rear was done by previous owner. This is what he spent:
Engine - 6500$
Trans - 2800
Rear End - 3800
Engine install K- Frame , engine mounts, suspension bushings etc. 2000$
Misc. Engine parts 3000$
Labor 2000$
$7,000 for engine wiring and other issues.
 
^^^ Thats how people get $40,000 in their $20,000 car!!!!!
Well I got a good deal (must have looked at 500+ Chargers online before buying mine), but in many cases you can buy cars with $40K+ worth of work for $20K or less. I will make money if I ever want to sell but previous owner did take a loss. He even told me next time he would buy one all fixed, I generally looked at fixed ones or ones that need interior and paint only. The cars you have to fix A-Z are the ones that really set you back, that $3K for the frame sounds good till you get to work.
 
Having a 71 and 74 I love seeing these saved. You have a good start and I will be following.
 
Not to be negative but if the budget is 30 to 40K, you can find a mint original 73/74 survivor with high options and a factory 440 in that range (or a lot less), not a restored car where the work is potentially questionable.
 
I have restored every nut and bolt on quite a few Mopars mainly from mid 80's to about 2000. I NEVER made anything for my labor and $$. I have made good prfit years ago, on finding good project, cleaning them p,getting them running and find a guy that wanted a GOOD project car. That was back when good project cars could be fund and pried for what they were!!!!!
I still restore some to what I consider driver quality drivers but it is hard to get even my $$ back out much less anything for my labor. I do all my own work and by projects for way less than many. I just call it my hobby and saving another old MOPAR!!!!
I will not lose $$ on my hobby. Can not afford it!! But.. I work for free!!!! LOL
 
Nice project! My first car back in 1990 was a ‘73 SE that the owner before me pulled the 400 and dropped in a 440HP motor. It was super blue with black vinyl top and blue interior. It was Ziebarted so had very minimal rust, only spot was in the right quarter at the bottom. Wish I kept that car, I yanked the drivetrain which I still have and junked the rest. :screwy: This was before the internet so, i had very limited knowledge and smarts back then.
 
Glad to see some interest in the project, can't wait to really get started!

Not too concerned about having 40k into a 20k car. I had rather know its done right from the ground up. I'm only 25 and hoping that this will be the first of several.. I don't care about all the new fancy cars and trucks.

The guy had a 72 U code that he was thinking about selling.. was in a lot rougher shape than this one though.

Where will be a good place to look at trim pieces that might need replacing in the interior? Assuming there is a company that reproduces some of it.
 
Also thanks for that list J smooth, doesn't look that bad without the drivetrain figured in ha
 
Also thanks for that list J smooth, doesn't look that bad without the drivetrain figured in ha
Yea came out well, however car is running super rich. Had to take in to a shop and adjust carbs, that will set me back a pretty penny I am sure. I am hoping to come in around $16K with everything including paint, and maybe a vacuum pump to add extra braking power. Almost everything is new at that point and over $40K investment with 2 different owners, I will have a very sound car. In many cases I feel it's better to buy a car all done, I just got a super deal on car that was mechanically new and just needed interior work and some light mechanical work. It's a very rare find.
 
Also thanks for that list J smooth, doesn't look that bad without the drivetrain figured in ha
Your rust doesn't look that bad, good news is you can fix the interior for less then $3K including parts if you do the work yourself. Just need hours to put in, then start dealing with the drive train. Not sure what that will cost but if you know how to do it yourself it's a massive savings. The only thing I can do is help hold the dash while they installed it....lol...
 
I'm pretty handy with any wrench and a welder.. just not a fan of the sander and paint guns..
I plan to do everything but the body and paint work and the reupholstering. I will leave those to the professionals.

Where did you get your dash carpets and what not from for the interior?
 
I'm pretty handy with any wrench and a welder.. just not a fan of the sander and paint guns..
I plan to do everything but the body and paint work and the reupholstering. I will leave those to the professionals.

Where did you get your dash carpets and what not from for the interior?
I found all of it online between several sites. Classic Industries has the best prices, they have a coupon for everything. They were the #1 place I bought items from. Amazon actually had a few things like the heat insulation, Raptor spray etc., ebay was the #2 most purchase made, cheapest place for new tail lights only $128 (with shipping) even Classic Industries it was way more like $200. Search around!!! Carid only for the truck pan but you don't seem to need that. And the steering wheel from some guy on this site, great deal. Between eBay, Classic Industries, you should be able to get 80% of the stuff. Also use this site, some sellers have great prices.
 
Thanks that will give me a great place to start! I was not too sure if most could only be found on sites like this and ebay or what.
 
I'm pretty handy with any wrench and a welder.. just not a fan of the sander and paint guns..
I plan to do everything but the body and paint work and the reupholstering. I will leave those to the professionals.

Where did you get your dash carpets and what not from for the interior?
On your Wilwoods hold on also, I might have site with some killer prices. My buddy works for them and he said he can give us a big discount coupon.
 
I have not had a lot of free time and have been working on a house project. I did manage to buy a few things for the car since I don't have anything to really tinker with after the house project is done. I am going to see if cleaning and maybe rebuilding the carb, putting fresh fluids in it, new plugs, new wires, new distributer, and new battery will get it running.

This will also give me a chance to get it on some jack stands and do a little more cleaning on it.
 
Messed around with the charger this weekend.
Took the truck battery and swapped it in the car, checked oil level 1/4-1/2 quart low, pulled plugs and they were ok but will get new ones. When I pulled the plugs I put a small amount of power steering fluid in the cylinders just so the walls would have some lubrication if they didn't, due to sitting for so long, when cranking. A while back I bought a tune up kit that had all the plug wires and distributor in it, thought it had spark plugs but didn't so I need to get some this week.

When I bought the tune up kit I also got a carb rebuild kit. So I need to do that one weekend and then fill it with gas and try to crank it. I turned it over a few times. One to make sure that with a battery it would and two to see if anything was seized.

So far only $65 into it but there are a lot of small things that will have to be done If I really want to drive it this fall.

New coolant overflow reservoir (or so I thought) its P/N 3431721 which comes up as a windshield wiper fluid reservoir. really just need a lid to this tank. So not needed to drive really.
battery
battery tray, front corner is rusted and flimsy
headlights as one it busted out
Change oil and coolant (if there is any coolant in there)
power steering reservoir cap

When turning it over everything sounded like it should I think so maybe I can get it running fairly easy.

None of the dash lights would come on except for the brake light and a green light.
 
Here is a link to the first attempt. I do not get it to start in the video but recorded for documenting
 
Stupid question.. If I find a bigblock K frame for the 400 do I need all of the suspension A arms and what not specifically for that frame?

Overview of my thinking process, feel free to add.

Order I am doing things in currently:
Step 1:
- Finding a shop to do the machine work and install pistons and crank, I will finish engine from there. Surely they will allow that.
- Buying specialty tools and things I dont have to get started on the engine build.
- find and buy big block K frame
- need to determine if I need anything specific to the new k frame
- fuel system, I know I will be doing fuel injection
- determine T bar size, I saw a set of 1.03" on PST site for around $260 but I thought I would need a bit stiffer
- front and rear suspension and brake overhaul kit of some sort
- basically new bushing, struts, ball joints, a arms if needed, brake calipers, lines, pads, master cylinder?
- determine rear gearing and if I should for sure do an 8 3/4" rear. Almost positive I have the smaller one.

If I missed anything you can think of that I should not take a chance on not replacing let me know.

Step 2: Get engine sonic checked

Step 3: After all of that in step 1 is determined for sure I will start ordering everything to get the suspension squared away including new K frame.

Step 4: Mock up the engine just to check clearances, maybe at this point look at a better radiator, check power steering pumps and other miscellaneous things.

Step 5: I would like to shave the engine bay and relocate some most of the wiring to inside, I have seen some pictures and love it. may or may not do it this time around.

Step 6: At this point I should be able to send engine off and order all of the engine parts that will be needed and fuel system things. Including fuel injection kit. And do trans as well.

Step 7: suspension and brakes should be done, engine and fuel should be done

Step 8: cooling system and any other powertrain related odds and ends

Step 9: interior

Step 10 body/paint
 
Well I found the answer to the K frame question. Turns out schumacher engine mounts is the way to go and then no need to swap the k frame. Will be ordering soon as they are back in business it looks like.

I thought I found a shop to do engine work, from a recommendation, but after talking to him he said he hasn't done hardly any mopar 400/440s so I am not comfortable with being a test pig. Back to the search on that one.

Picked up an engine stand and hoist for drive train removal and what not.

Getting closer to getting parts starting to roll in I hope.
 
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