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K member question

bobs63wagon

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Is there a measurement or a way to determine if my 63 Ply has the correct K member? I have a CSR transmission shield for my big block I want to use now. I know the "trick" years ago was to put a newer year K member in to move the motor back. I am not sure if the previous owner may have done this. I have had no clearance issues with the firewall but never used a shield before. The car is stored two hours away so trying to get some knowledge before I go check out the car. I know of one racer who had a problem with this issue. If the K member has been changed to move the motor back you can't get the CSR shield on as there is not enough firewall clearance. Would like to figure this out before I try and put the motor and tranny back in the car. Thanks for any info.
 
Does it have a thru bolt holding the idler arm to the K-frame? If so it's newer.
Doug
 
I'm using a 70 unit in mine. Moves it back 1.5". Like Doug mentioned, it uses a through bolt on the idler. Here is a picture of passenger side head to firewall. And yes, it makes the trans tunnel tight.

IMG_3942.jpeg
 
Schumacher creative services has pictures of various k members on their website. When you compare the 66 up B body to the 63-65 B body k members the difference in motor mount position is obvious, especially on the drivers side.
 
I'm using a 70 unit in mine. Moves it back 1.5". Like Doug mentioned, it uses a through bolt on the idler. Here is a picture of passenger side head to firewall. And yes, it makes the trans tunnel tight.

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If it is a new style I think the shield will not clear. Also driveshaft length an issue if changed? And trying to find a correct K member!
 
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A new 66 frame has the tapered stud idler.
 
Schumacher creative services has pictures of various k members on their website
Early B photos show the K frame engine mount pads have 2 holes and later have 1
 
Driveshaft has to be shortened. As is with some thumping to clear various items on the trans case, there was about a fingers worth of room around the trans. No room for a shield unless you really knock the sheetmetal around on the tunnel. Or cut and redo it.
 
Personally I wouldn't build a car needing a sheild unless the tunnel was enlarged. Doing it during the build process is realitively easy. You'll be way happier when you have to service it. Cut the hole. Bend the metal over something large and round. Shove it up in the hole from underneath. To large a piece is fine. Push it up tight and tack weld starting at the top. Once it's a tacked, solid weld the top side. Now trim the excess from underneath. Weld the bottom seam as well. Then the weld is thick enough to metal finish.
Doug

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racecar 250.jpg
 
Personally I wouldn't build a car needing a sheild unless the tunnel was enlarged. Doing it during the build process is realitively easy. You'll be way happier when you have to service it. Cut the hole. Bend the metal over something large and round. Shove it up in the hole from underneath. To large a piece is fine. Push it up tight and tack weld starting at the top. Once it's a tacked, solid weld the top side. Now trim the excess from underneath. Weld the bottom seam as well. Then the weld is thick enough to metal finish.
Doug

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Nice job on the tunnel. My friends 63 is a classic race car he runs in nostalgia. He doesn't want to cut the tunnel. His preference.
 
When I built this car it was inteneded to be a nostalgia racecar from the begining. It was intended to look as much like an uncut car as possible. But being a racecar it would need service. The trans can be out in 30 minutes. The engine in just over an hour. Even with engine in the factory location a trans sheild is a nightmare on a 62-65. Even a trans blanket gets squished into the floor. Mine looks stock unless you relly stare at it from underneath. The factory gas pedal still bolts in the original location.
Doug
 
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