Most examples below were on my old Silver 68 RR I sold 2007
My current 68 RR will have basically the same parts, less strip, more interior etc.
milder engine, camshaft, heads etc.
I've used both aftermarket poly bushed, rubber bushed & tubular stuff
I've had worn out 100k+ miles on OEM stuff & new OEM suspension parts & stuff
I've used stock OE type 13/16" sway bar on the front, none from the factory in rear
Compared to aftermarket 1-3/8" sway bar on front alone than added a 1" rear adjustable sway bar
night & day different, especially from a push & dig poor handling OE stock...
Even bracing & plating or welding up the old worn OE stamped steel
deflection/flexy parts helps a bit
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These torsion bar OE suspensions are known for bad & notorious under-steer,
not really corner carvers, bad body role & unless you drive with the throttle,
or maybe have enough power to kick out the rear,
than you can achieve a bit of over-steer...LOL
Other wise it's a bad push, with out much wider tires, much better shocks,
lower ride height/center of gravity, bigger sway bars, front & rear etc.
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I like the tubular stuff better, It's just my preferences...
They look better IMO too...
What's wrong with that alone ?, even if it's not just that...
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I never did weight each piece after taking them off,
I didn't care, I knew what I wanted, after scaling/weighing the car,
it was some 70#'s lighter in front, after doing just all the QA1 stuff...
than all the alum. heads, alum water pump housing, electric water pump,
2 electric fans vs the OE steel or clutch fans,
alum rad, alum intake {albeit a 6bbl is heavy} headers vs cast iron exhaust
SSBC disc brakes not the light ones, taking off 11"x 3" drums,
moving the battery {heavy} to the pass side rear trunk,
it was some 170# less nose weight on the scales
that's even before the lightweight A12 Lift off 6bbl hood
{Weight difference ? maybe 30#'s}
& lightweight alum bumper brackets & fiberglass bumpers too
{maybe another 25 #'s different} have weight them or scaled the car, to tell...
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Most recently I've done the QA1 stuff,
last 2 RR's I've used a combination of old Capps I had still & the new QA1
& they're very affordable & you can do it pieces at a time,
do the uppers first than not have to spend $3500 all at once, lie some kits
I used several different styles of the "OLD" Capps Automotive stuff too
QA1 bought them out a couple years back, 10-20 years ago, they were the only ones
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I know people with Reilly MS with mixed results, but I never used them myself,
mostly complaints, I heard about premature wear & bad bushings etc. {all correctable} &
I know people that use Magnum Force pieces too,
I like their stuff, I like Ron Jenkins the owner too, a real life long true devout Mopar guy
{I've used a few of their parts also} most with great success,
they do look kind of heavy, especially the K-Members, but lighter disc brakes &
no torsion bars make a weight difference, for sure...
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I've done it in many different variances, different combos over the years
I speak from personal experience, not hearsay/conjecture...
Added SPC double adj. on the car poly bushed UCA's, but haven't had much time yet...
I've used a few different aftermarket & new OE stuff !!
IMO, yes it's just an opinion,
but I'll take the aftermarket stuff, for my performance application,
even with a torsion bar still, with great success...
I've done the coil overs & I've also done Lamb struts too,
but there are mods & fabrications needed
it's not just a bolt on deal for either, depends on whom you get your K-member from
there are as many different styles of them too
I'm not using my cars a daily drivers either, what I can put up with maybe be different...
I build them to suit my taste & not to appease anyone else,
or to tout some old Ma Mopars Engineers, it's more like the penny pinching accountant/cheapskates
that stopped the great Ma Mopar engineers from doing what they really wanted...
But IMO the aftermarket stuff handles better, weighs less, has less deflection/flex,
more infinite adjustability, better tire wear {in my case}, with better stance/ride height control,
without sacrificing any adjustability, better as it goes to bumpsteer too...
{albeit for a dedicated street car, that never sees any track action, just for show,
it's not really necessary, to have all that adjustability, adding a bigger front sway bar
good bushings & adding a adjustable rear sway bar & good shocks
"will make night & day differences" even using OE stamped steel flexy parts}
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Even with a nominal weight difference, comparing piece for piece
mainly the torsion bars are really heavy, so are the 11" drum brakes,
vs the disc brakes, especially newer stuff, how much difference part for part, I don't know,
but the torsion bars are in the way, it can be made to work, I've done it too,
but if your using a coil over vs a torsion bar,
than IMO it's going to be quite a bit lighter, far more room, better adjustability,
fully adjustable UCA & tubular LCA's laying back the spindles, for better tracking
or Pos or Neg camber adjustments, for cornering/handling
especially if you use the dynamic adj. strut rods vs the OE designed
either poly or rubber bushed rods
better oil pan clearances, especially if you don't use a steering box with the OEM
"rear steer style of boxes" cross & drag links under the pan,
if you go to a front steer rack & pinion, flop your lower ball joints left to right visa versa
you gain a ton of room, for better header clearances & oil pans or starters even,
you could run a FC style oil pan if it's a "front steer", especially if you go to the coil overs too...
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My current car will be using the QA1 tubular pieces, OE org. 68 RR Torsion bars
& a Power Unisteer bolt on style "rear steer"
{Omni style reverse rotation} rack & pinion
I wouldn't recommend it {Under pan Rack}, had to mess with bump steer,
PITA no header room, building my own anyway & not many choices of Oil Pans either,
reduced turning radius, all correctable if you want to do some work/fab stuff...
Not exactly a bolt on & go unless your using all stock stuff...
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Anyway, I'm done writing this damn book...LOL
I hope it helped someone, even a little bit,
it's a real world take not just hearsay/conjecture,
or rumors someone heard on the -www-, than passing it on with no personal
experience/knowledge...
IMO it's well worth doing the tubular suspension stuff,
most any of the aftermarket suspensions, if your incline to...
Just do your due diligence 1st/research it don't go by hearsay/conjecture,
bias opinions...
To each their own...