Keep burning Voltage Regulators

[hunt2elk]

I bought an ebay electronic Chinese special that replaces the ‘61-‘69 mechanical points original, and it’s been working great for almost a year on my daily “everyday” ‘68 Satellite. I think it was $17. I tried a USA Standard OG type, and it burned out in a day.

http://[URL]https://www.ebay.com/it...c_SrYA5TA6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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As a bonus, it cured the flickering lights at idle, and the jumpy amp gauge.

Check your output on that regulator. I bet it is 14.8- 15 volts. That has been my experience with all the newer electronic ones like you pictured anyway. I think I tried one from 6 different sources before saying screw it and converted both my 69 B-bodies over to the Denso style alternators. I'm much happier with the regulation voltage on those and feel safer about not boiling a battery.

 

[kiwigtx]

Interesting. But is smokes with 2nd FLD grounded or not. I thought that one FLD went to ballast resistor and the other FLD went to VR.

You have got a major short to ground.

Obviously this is going to need sorting out before burning up more parts.

A blown fuse or smoking components suggests a big problem........STOP now and start testing the entire loom. This is not an easy fix over the internet for anyone involved.

 

[dadsbee]

You still haven't shown which VR you're using and now apparently you also have a dual field alternator on your '68 as well. Pictures and more details would help immensely. If you had a true '68 system then the only field wire you should have is a green one to the VR.

 

[danf_fl]

This is the voltage regulator. PN: VR101 The alternator has a 2 FLD on it.
This weekend I ad running new wires in this configuration:

 

[Don Frelier]

Well there is your problem your using a regulator that sources 12V to the the alternator and you need one that sinks.
You need this style for that schematic.

These were used in many vehicles I just picked one that I used to own.
You can get the connector as well from RockAuto:

 

[danf_fl]

I have one of these:

I can set it up using the old style connectors and schematic.
Mopar Performance P3690732 Mopar Performance Voltage Regulators | Summit Racing

 

[Don Frelier]

I have one of these:
View attachment 1553405I can set it up using the old style connectors and schematic.
Mopar Performance P3690732 Mopar Performance Voltage Regulators | Summit Racing

That's still a sourcing type regulator just has transistors instead for a dry contact. You would need to wire it like this:

I prefer the newer style that I suggested above first.

 

[hunt2elk]

View attachment 1553399This is the voltage regulator. PN: VR101 The alternator has a 2 FLD on it.
This weekend I ad running new wires in this configuration:
View attachment 1553400

You have a mismatch of parts. Either pickup a regulator like Don posted, or get a single field round back alternator.

 

[danf_fl]

Thanks.
I am still getting car rewired. I love the old stuff, but with insulation falling off, it's time to do new wires.

What is the difference between the 2 FLD and the 1 FLD alternator if I do not connect a wire to second FLD?

 

[hunt2elk]

This is what the backside of a 69 and older single field alternator looks like that works with the regulator you have now. One terminal is field and the other is grounded to the case.

 

[Some Car Guy]

A two field will work with the old reg if he grounds the second field.

 

[RJRENTON]

IMO.....its POSSIBLE, that the rotating field windings are shorted, either to esch other or to ground, thru the shaft to ground. The other possibility is the brush holder is grounded or has a LOW resistance to ground. The voltage regulator controls (varies) the field voltage (and current) to the brush holder or both brushes, and the alternators rotating field. if it's an isolated field alternator, to control the rotor's magnetic field and ultimately the output VOLTAGE of the alternator (the alternators output current is design controlled thru the impedance of the stator windings and the diode capacity). The field voltage and current to the rotor is in the neighborhood of 5-7 volts and several amps. If these values are exceeded, due to short circuited windings or low resistance to ground, the voltage regulator will suffer or fail. Check the alternators FIELD WIRES FOR GROUNDS then check the alternators field windings and brush holders for low resistance to ground. Just a few additional thoughts......
BOB RENTON

 

[danf_fl]

IMO.....its POSSIBLE, that the rotating field windings are shorted, either to esch other or to ground, thru the shaft to ground. The other possibility is the brush holder is grounded or has a LOW resistance to ground. The voltage regulator controls (varies) the field voltage (and current) to the brush holder or both brushes, and the alternators rotating field. if it's an isolated field alternator, to control the rotor's magnetic field and ultimately the output VOLTAGE of the alternator (the alternators output current is design controlled thru the impedance of the stator windings and the diode capacity). The field voltage and current to the rotor is in the neighborhood of 5-7 volts and several amps. If these values are exceeded, due to short circuited windings or low resistance to ground, the voltage regulator will suffer or fail. Check the alternators FIELD WIRES FOR GROUNDS then check the alternators field windings and brush holders for low resistance to ground. Just a few additional thoughts......
BOB RENTON

I am committed to rewiring the car already (should fix numerous problems). But this weekend, I am going to play around and try to get it working with new wires and stuff I have on hand.

Thanks everyone for the great advice!!!

 

[danf_fl]

I am committed to rewiring the car already (should fix numerous problems). But this weekend, I am going to play around and try to get it working with new wires and stuff I have on hand.

Thanks everyone for the great advice!!!

I stepped back and thought I would fix it even though I will re-wire the complete car anyways.
Somewhere along the the last thirty years, the carb was replaced with one that has electric choke.
(History on this car is iffy at best. I went in with step father over 25 years ago. We fixed it. He drove from Florida to Wisconsin. Put it in shed were it basically sat for almost 20 years with him fiddling with it. He passed. I ship car from Wisconsin to my place and am in the process of restoration.)

To get 12VDC needed for choke, the supply was connected to FLD post of Voltage regulator (grounding FLD through choke)
Burned VR (I guess I was lucky).

Changed supply of VDC to choke to same connector as the one for wiper motor (part of ballast resistor), and it changed a lot of things. Wipers work better, dash-lights are brighter, gauges work as they should, no burning of VR, charging is working now.

Don't use VR as a power source for other that what it is intended.