Kick down linkage adjustment

[Wietse]

Hey all,

I am going through the manual to set my kick down linkage correct.
Recently replaced my old double pumper carb for a new Holley Street Avenger, and want to set things right as the kick down did work but the linkage was missing it's spring and just sits halfway the slotted bracket which is not correct.
Main problem is i could not really figure out what i need as a reference point.
As per manual i need to insert a 3/16" rod in the bracket which i did and adjust the ball joint to meet the ball...so far so good.
But...when i release the bracket with the pin removed the slotted bracket moves rearward, just for the record...i removed the return spring of the kick down linkage.
It ends up in a "neutral" place where i can move it forward as wel as backward.
From both sides it is being pushed back to the same position, like it was on a spring on both sides.
The manual does not describe to adjust the lower section of linkage (item 7) that is attached on the operating lever on the transmission. (item 11)
Would this require adjustment to make sure it stays in such a place that i could install the 3/16" pin without moving anything after lining up the intermediate rod ball joint?
Because in the "neutral" position it finds by itself there is not enough threads on the linkage to get it set on the throttle bracket as per manual.

Hopefully someone could share some knowledge here and help me out.

Thx!

 

[moes]

check this video out on how to adjust your kick down linkage.

 

[Wietse]

Thx Moes,

I see how he explained how the kick down linkage is all the way back, the throttle should be fully opened as well.
I used that and set the linkage all the way rear and adjusted it so it will fit the throttle linkage pin as it should.
But when returned there is gap again of around 3/8" at the slotted bracket, guess that is caused by the play on the linkage?
There is play in the linkage for sure, maybe i should replace all of it some day.

 

[oldbee]

Wietse, read the manual closely for adj of #2 with align rod locking upper pivot. You may have to extend #2&10 to get proper alignment(upward pull on #2 while aligning ball socket). The “slider” can stop anywhere if the return spring is not hooked up, also make sure carb at hot idle position.

 

[Wietse]

Thx Oldbee,
I did extend #2 and #10, while i kept a 3/16" pin installed in the bracket and lined them up.
I wonder if there is any adjustment on bracket #7 from the drawing.
Hard to see and reach with these headers in place.
To me it seems that is the only place left to adjust something
It seems that the vertical linkage weight is just pulling the mechanism down when the spring is not installed.

Carb choke i did not consider indeed, although i had it running 10 minutes before.
Does the choke (electric) mechanism operate the primary to pick up high idle rpm?
And once it is getting warm, does it supposed to release only after a short hit of the throttle?

 

[oldbee]

Think that #7 is fixed length. Yes on carb, when you’re setting adjustments for trans you don’t want throttle at high cold speed setting. I added a threaded extension between 2&10 because my OE linkage was for a 383 and now running a 440.

 

[Wietse]

I added a threaded extension between 2&10 because my OE linkage was for a 383 and now running a 440.

Understood.
Ok, so if #7 is fixed, which looks like it as far as i could my face below & between the car and headers.
The car is a original R/T with it's number matching engine, but who knows threw a 383 or any other linkage in there which is too short.
Just found a crack in my exhaust header as well so i will be pulling all the crap out anyway.
Need to see to replace the worn linkages and brackets and get a new/correct vertical linkage as well.
For now it is drivable, and i will test it at some point to see if the kick down still works.

Thx for the help gentleman!

 

[Dipstick]

Hey all,

I am going through the manual to set my kick down linkage correct.
Recently replaced my old double pumper carb for a new Holley Street Avenger,

Does that Holley have the correct Holley 20-7 Mopar throttle lever extension? If not, the linkage won't work correctly.

 

[Wietse]

Does that Holley have the correct Holley 20-7 Mopar throttle lever extension? If not, the linkage won't work correctly.

Yes it does.
The old carb had it installed, but there it was secured with only 1 bolt and kept on a strange angle, see picture.
One eye was bend inwards, i straightened it up and installed it as it supposed to be.

 

[oldbee]

There’s really no real tension on everything in the linkage. Mine has 86k miles on it, a little lube on pivots every once in awhile should be good. Good luck on replacement parts, myself just don’t like the cable setup, but you might need to go that direction. IMHO keep the steel if you can.

 

[Wietse]

It is not really a tension, it just sits in a "neutral" position by itself without any spring attached.
This "neutral" position is roughly in the middle of the stroke of the mechanism, while i would expect it to stay at the beginning of it's stroke length and pulled to the other extreme by the carb linkage.
Hope you know what i mean.

I have not considered a cable setup really.
I could drill out the linkages and use bushings on the pins to get rid of the excessive clearance.

 

[oldbee]

Just go with the adjustments in manual. Then put spring on to pull “slot” to it’s forward position. The slotted arm can also be adjusted a little to get the bottom arm on trans to full rearward at full throttle.

 

[Wietse]

I will try again by following the manual and do any last adjustment with the slotted arm, see how it ends up.