Kickdown adjustment

[oldbee]

Idea, wrong arm on trans for pressure? Pomona every slot I ever saw bottomed on carb stud(?)

 

[JG1966]

Idea, wrong arm on trans for pressure? Pomona every slot I ever saw bottomed on carb stud(?)

No. It's the right arm. It's the carb and manifold that are "wrong". Edelbrock RPM Air Gap and Holley 750. Thanks Oldbee. I'll figure something out.

 

[miller]

It's the carb and manifold that are "wrong".

Yeah, that's something I forgot (senior moment) to mention. Maybe this will give clues, if nothing else. Even on the slot type kick-downs, usual deal is, the travel distance at both pivot points, at the trans/linkage, and the carb throttle arm pivot, should be about the same. That allows full travel for the kick-down lever. Might be worth looking at, and if needed, change it.
For 'wrong' carbs/manifolds, usually an adapter comes into play. Good luck on it. You'll get it!

 

[mopar73dge]

It looks like your springs are in the wrong places, and the trans kick down lever bracket for the spring is backwards.. look into some original photos and in the f.s.m.

 

[Yatzee]

I know this topic has been dealt with a lot (but FSM is a bit fuzzy, at least in my eyes) and was looking for some help. 72 RR w/ 340, 727, 3.91. I swapped carb and manifold and need to get kickdown dialed in. Right now I am getting a slightly delayed upshift from 2-3 at normal throttle (about 40 mph) and loud downshift into 1st when I come to a stop. Also getting loud thunk - louder than Ma Mopar normal - when I put in reverse (though not convinced that's kickdown related). I believe I need to "shorten" my kickdown. It's a one-piece with theView attachment 493678 View attachment 493679 adjuster near tranny. Here comes the dumb question. To shorten, do I loosen adjuster nut and move kickdown rod toward the engine, and this lessens some of the movement at the tranny lever? Or do I move kickdown rod toward rear and this "tightens" the tranny lever? I know a little adjustment goes a long way, so I want to adjust the right way the first time. Thanks.

You need a bit of a slot in the rod end at the carb or you may find you can't return to idle. The rod to the tranny should have a spring to pull it forward so it is seated against the carb pin at idle. This is one case where a cable would be the perfect installation as you don't have all the original parts.

 

[JG1966]

It looks like your springs are in the wrong places, and the trans kick down lever bracket for the spring is backwards.. look into some original photos and in the f.s.m.

The bracket isn't backwards. I had to flip around the throttle cable holder. I'm not sure exactly where the springs go (I'll try to find a photo), but they are all working perfectly. The springs aren't an issue.

 

[mopar73dge]

all right well hopefully you figure it all out

 

[Bruzilla]

I suspect you're having the same problems I did. The main issue is kickdown rods use a very specific geometry between the carb, the bracket, and the lever on the trans, and the minute you start changing things, like going to a taller intake and carb set up, that geometry gets thrown off and you have problems. You can adjust, but since the rod is no longer getting pushed straight back, and is now getting pushed down and back, it might be impacting the firewall from time to time and messing things up.

You can spend hours trying to adjust the road and getting nowhere, or spend $35 or so on a cable system and call it a day. That's the way I went.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-MO...ash=item3acb905c4b:g:M-QAAOSwnDZT-S82&vxp=mtr

 

[JG1966]

I suspect you're having the same problems I did. The main issue is kickdown rods use a very specific geometry between the carb, the bracket, and the lever on the trans, and the minute you start changing things, like going to a taller intake and carb set up, that geometry gets thrown off and you have problems. You can adjust, but since the rod is no longer getting pushed straight back, and is now getting pushed down and back, it might be impacting the firewall from time to time and messing things up.

You can spend hours trying to adjust the road and getting nowhere, or spend $35 or so on a cable system and call it a day. That's the way I went.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-MO...ash=item3acb905c4b:g:M-QAAOSwnDZT-S82&vxp=mtr

Thanks Bruzilla. I've got a couple hours invested and I think I got it good to go. I bent the rod about 1/4 inch at one spot and filed off the round metal stopper at the adjusting block to get the tiny amount of more adjustment I needed. Definitely not getting interference with firewall (after the small bend). Gonna take her out when the sun comes out. If this didn't fix it, I'll have no option but to get a cable. But I'm hopeful.