Lash settings with unknown HP cam, solid rollers and ported.

[Pysyko]

The REASON that I said that the pushrods MAY be too short is because of the amount of threads showing under the rocker arms. To clarify what type of lifters you have (At least we DO know that they're NOT roller lifters...lol) remove the snap ring from one of the lifters, turn it upside down on a rag and see what falls out. A solid lifter will have only a cup portion that will not compress; that is, the cup sits on a shelf and the snap ring holds it in place. Hopefully, you've figured this all out by now and the motor is running fine. Good luck...

Hey ColoradoDave...
I didn't mean to sound like I was questioning you, or your thoughts on what happened. I was just thinking out loud...
If anything, I think that is was a catastrophic failure, that happened to a fellow who was told he has something he doesn't.
I don't have a very good track record here...
I'm going back to the pits, and watch...
Sorry, I didn't mean to cause a rift with anyone.
Happy Moparing!!

 

[sputnik 440]

I had a detailed reply on how I followed what everyone helped me with and how I got to the point I am at now. This is a short version. When I went "go advanced" to put photos on, the forum went blank. So, here is what I found out:
The lifters are hydraulic, 5 of the 16 had a broken or shattered Plunger/valve. none of the pushrods were of the same length due to wear or breakage. The cam looks ok. When I miced the lobes and use the multiplier, I got .49 for both the exhaust and the intake. I think a .40/.49 Mopar is ok on this HP engine. Yes? Actual lift measurements varied, but within what I feel was in the margin of error due to the process I used of measuring it in place. The range was .3245 to .3275 with 3 out of 7 measurements being .3275. Worst was .3248. A lot, but then try to measure it in place with a depth micrometer over the engine casting. A couple of the lobes could be measured over and over and vary by .020. Others same every time. This was do to using the casting as a base for the micrometer to rest on.

I hate to think about taking the engine out to change the cam. Question: Can I remove the cam from the front end (grill) of a '67 Satellite? Looks like it should all come off above the bumper and below the piece across the top by the top of the radiator.

I think I am going to buy the complete set from Comp Cam and let them pic the cam, lifters, springs, pushrods, timing chain and gears (that seems to me to be the part I am not looking forward to). What about the balancer?

But, I am tempted to just replace the lifters and the rods and see what I get. If the worst cam is off by .025, wouldn't the zero lash adjustment take up for that?, or will it make too much of a difference in the opening of the valve. I really don't think it is off that much, but I have to call it like I see it. There is no more noticeable wear on it that the other lobes and no flat areas. Any other suggestions?

Here are some photos of what I found in my exploration. Thanks again to all who guided me and encouraged me to do this. Is this forum great, or what????

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It is amazing that this engine ran as good as it did prior to parking it. There was actually no reason for me to want to adjust the valves except that I hadn't done it since I bought it last year, 400 miles ago. It never even made racket at ideal and the exhaust sounded nice. Maybe the headers and the 3 " exhaust hides a lot. Just wanted to add this.

 

[coloradodave]

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Pysyko: I have no problem with you. This forum is a place for everybody to bounce solutions around until problems are hopefully solved. Stick around; all of us appreciate your input.

Sputnik440: If indeed the cam lobes look like you've described; that is, there are no flat spots or burn marks, and you don't see a lot of 'sparkle' in oil removed from the pan, I think I would just install a new set of lifters, rocker arm adjusters and the correct length pushrods, after measuring for them. Bet it goes for 100K miles. Keeping good thoughts for you...

 

[sputnik 440]

I'm not quite sure why my latest replies have not been attached. Let me try again. I feel I own contributors thanks, and to provide a status. I am attaching some photos that depict what I found as a result of all the advise I have received. Bottom line is that the valves would not set, the pushrods were all worn at various degrees, the lifters, 5 of 16 were broken where the ball of the rod mates with the lifter. The cam appears ok and miced out as a .49 lift for exhaust and intake, but, the measurements left a couple of the lobes suspect. So, I ordered a complete kit from Competition Cams. Cam, lifters, springs, timing gear and chain, and some other parts. I am going to take the cam out from the front after removing the grill and supports. Radiator is already out and been pressure tested. I think you will find these photos quite interesting.

 

[coloradodave]

Well, if you're going to go that far you may as well pull the pan and clean out any remaining chips from the oil pump pick-up. That way you won't have to Mickey Mouse the timing cover to pan gasket seal either. Like I said earlier, it's been my experience over the last 50 years that when you wipe a cam lobe it's very obvious. At least this way you'll know what you have...
Good luck. Wish you the best.

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[sputnik 440]

Good idea on the oil pan! You mentioned burn marks on the lobes. Would that be a problem if I had light blue marks (from heat it would look like) on the edges of the lobes but not under where the lifter rides? I see that on maybe 3 or 4 lobes.

I appreciate your recommendation to go with the existing cam. I could have, I think. But for another $150 I got the whole kit and a extreme energy set up. Should take me to 600hp according to Comp. and still be street.

Gotta go, I have a ton of work to do on the sputnik. Just hope I remember where I put all the bolts and nuts. lol Oh, the front came off the car quite easily. I was surprised, one piece.