LEEDS BRAKE INSTALLATION ON MY 64 FURY

[Red63440]

We got a break in the weather today so I thought I would at least get the car up on stands and get the front wheels off. As it turned out I got a lot more started and completed so I thought I would share my morning with you.
Started with a basic tear down of the drum brakes including the backing plate and clean up of the spindle.

Once the backing plates were removed the spindle, mating surfaces and holes were cleaned. The mounting brackets mount so the calipers mount towards the front. All new hardware is included except the two 5/8” bolts and nuts which are reused and installed in the hole not used for the new bracket.

Once the bracket is mounted all bolts are torqued to the specs given in the instructions. You received two bearings and races with the kit but you will find that races are already installed in the rotors. Remove the bearings from the boxes and fill with bearing grease. Install the inner bearing before installing the inner seal and then slide the rotor on the spindle and complete the assembly.

The calipers are shipped assembled with pads in place. Two 7/16” bolts with spacers are used to mount the four piston Bendix caliper in place and goes on easily.

The kit is complete with master cylinder, brake hoses, brake lines from the master cylinder to your distribution block and includes and adjustable valve for rear brake metering. While I didn’t get things completed it was an easy upgrade and will be followed by installing the master cylinder install once the other side is completed. If you have any questions I will answer as best I can. Finish and fit is excellent and I would purchase from PST/Leeds again. This kit was bought through James at PST at a reduced price on FBBO.
Bob

 

[Darter6]

Looking good !

 

[Don Frelier]

Just don't forget to put the cotter pin in the castelated nut.
I can't watch you every minute...

 

[Red63440]

Funny man…..just done for photos. Still have to torque the mounting bolts, install the hose, hose clip and torque the castle nut for the wheel bearings AND put the cotter pin in. Think I should put the grease cap on too?

 

[RemCharger]

If you torque the wheel bearing tight enough, it's like a home made line lock!! Stay tuned for more tips!

Kidding,, thanks for the write up! I need to get some on my 64

 

[Red63440]

There are torque specs for everything on the instructions. I don’t have them in front of me but Leeds tells you to torque the spindle nut to around 24# to seat the bearings then back it off and re-torque it to about 15# to 18#….this is by memory and at almost 72 it’s not as good as it once was. You and Don should write a book on “MoPar Tips”.

 

[Don Frelier]

I've never torqued a spindle nut.
My uncle was an old time mechanic and he instructed me to tighten enough so the rotor didn't spin real freely then rotate it a few times to get the packed in grease pushed out. Tighten a bit spin release to find the spot where the rotor is just getting more difficult to turn.
Then back off just enough to get the cotter pin in.
It's kind of a "feel" thing.
But there should be no endplay when the pin is in.
That's how I've always done it and I've never had a bearing failure.

Are those inch/lb numbers?

 

[Red63440]

That’s I always did it too but……just going by the directions since it’s a warranty issue.

 

[MIKESPOLARA]

1965-67 Ford Mustang disc brakes on a Mopar, interesting

 

[Darter6]

1965-67 Ford Mustang disc brakes on a Mopar, interesting

Same as the Stainless Steel Brake Corp kit. 67 Mustang front and 93 Thunderbird rear discs.
Used that kit on my 65 20 years ago. Easy replacement parts from Rock Auto if needed.

 

[Red63440]

There is a bearing spacer pressed into the rotor and another one that slides onto the spindle (which can be seen in the photo) for the grease seal. That spacer has an inside radius machined into it to allow for the radius on the spindle which allows it to butt against the shoulder on the spindle. It’s a very easy install and the final product is great.

 

[33 IMP]

Manual disc's, drum rear?

 

[AR67GTX]

There are torque specs for everything on the instructions. I don’t have them in front of me but Leeds tells you to torque the spindle nut to around 24# to seat the bearings then back it off and re-torque it to about 15# to 18#….this is by memory and at almost 72 it’s not as good as it once was. You and Don should write a book on “MoPar Tips”.

Tighten it back to 15 - 18# as in ft/lb? Or as in inch/lb? I would think 15 -18 ft/lb would lock it up fairly good?
I’ve usually gone by feel on wheel bearings too. Occasionally I’ll get an inch/lb torque wrench out if I have the specs to just see what it feels like. Pretty much the same.

 

[Red63440]

I have factory power brakes and the system I bought comes with a master cylinder that is made to be used with the factory booster. I have 11” rear drum and now I have 11.3” front disk.

 

[Red63440]

Tighten it back to 15 - 18# as in ft/lb? Or as in inch/lb? I would think 15 -18 ft/lb would lock it up fairly good?
I’ve usually gone by feel on wheel bearings too. Occasionally I’ll get an inch/lb torque wrench out if I have the specs to just see what it feels like. Pretty much the same.

If you go on line the install instructions can be found. My instructions are in the garage so I don’t have them to look at. I think 15/18# foot pounds is pretty close to what they requested you set the torque wrench at.

 

[33 IMP]

I have factory power brakes and the system I bought comes with a master cylinder that is made to be used with the factory booster. I have 11” rear drum and now I have 11.3” front disk.

Okay thanks. I was looking at the Leeds manual system. Gonna keep the 10"rear drums.

 

[Red63440]

Okay thanks. I was looking at the Leeds manual system. Gonna keep the 10"rear drums.

I had changed the rear end to get away from the tapered axles before I decided to get the disk brake set up. Yes they do have the manual brake kit also.

 

[Don Frelier]

Seems high to me:

 

[khryslerkid]

If you torque the wheel bearing tight enough, it's like a home made line lock!! Stay tuned for more tips!

Kidding,, thanks for the write up! I need to get some on my 64

If you go on line the install instructions can be found. My instructions are in the garage so I don’t have them to look at. I think 15/18# foot pounds is pretty close to what they requested you set the torque wrench at.

Skip to the 7:15 min mark to see what I did on the bearing preload.

 

[Don Frelier]

I'd just do it the old way.
If you follow their instructions you likely will need to make a warranty claim. They are incorrect.
It's inch lbs not ft lbs.