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Leveling the car for surgery

This is what I had to do on a project a few years ago. You can see the stands I used. They came from the local RV dealer and they did the trick. In the back ground you can see the rotary laser level. I don`t remeber how much it was but it was cheap and easy to use. Hope this helps give you some ideas! Goodluck!
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Exactly how was the rotary laser level employed?What points on the car were aligned with the level?I have seen the rotary level used in an open room to set ceilings and floors,but I'm not sure how you used it.
Ron
 
You can set the laser level at whatever height you want so measure at the window channels, door sills, fender mounts, tail light openings and marker lights works. I also marked out the quarter panels every few inches to make sure everything was staying parallel.
You can also set the level up on the floor and measure off of the frame. That would make up for the uneven concrete. It works great once you get the hang of it. You`ll be measuring everything! lol
 
Hey, I'm not discouraged in the least. I just got back from sunny Florida! 75 degrees and sunny!!! Now, back in Jersey to 4o deg. temps and a big melt off from last weekends 12+ inch snowfall! Glad I wasn't here during the week!

I do know how "flexible" these damn cars are. Lifting right under the K frame is close to having the suspension loaded. Thats the best I can do with no engine or trans to work with at this point. And yes: I can throw the door on it too. A frame table would be great, but its not an option.

But lets get back to my original question and comment:

With the rear 2 frame sections on identical jacks, measuring the same distance off the floor, the qtr. panel on one side is ~ 3/8" different than the other side.. So, do I level the framerails? or level the body? or split the difference. I can't do both. I was looking for any and all opinions....so all are welcome.

About telling war stories or drinking with buddies....not an option in a school setting. This car will get done, and be structurally sound.
 
ok lifting under the k frame is not close to loading the suspension. that is as fixed as the rest of the body. your suspension gives or compresses with the wait of the vehicle resting on it, when you jack the car up under the k frame or your unibody, the suspension extends and hangs. once the suspension is off the ground then the body flex's. that's why you weld a unibody car with it's wait on the suspension. but if you insist the suspension is not an option, then level your car off your uni body rails and at least put the doors and trunk lid back on. to make sure your gaps don't close up or shift from the heat generated from welding
 
I'm saying that there is no way to lift and unload the rear (to roll the cut axle/frame forward) leaving the wheels "just touching" and leave the front suspension on the ground and loaded. You need to lift the front to level the car. Lifting under the K frame will load the front end weight through the K frame into the front frame rails.

If what is done to the right side, is done to the left side (no "fixes" for uneven metal)...I should be near the same as finished, as when I started.

Sure, a frame table is the best bet. But absent that, the main question was "whats more important....frame squaring or body panel squaring. I think I will proceed with squaring framerails front to back, left to right and make the cuts.

The doors and trunk lid will go back on for reference measure....as the car is leveled (as best as possible)
 
that's what i said if the suspension is not an option level and or square the uni body rails (frame rails) locate the factories jig holes in the rails, and these holes should be in the same place on each side and measure in an x pattern. this measurement should be the same to be square. my concern is you stated early on that the car looked twisted. if that holds true. i would take it to a bodyshop and have the car pulled to square before i cut it apart.
 
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