Line lock/Roll control advice please.

[krowbar]

I'm contemplating about putting a line lock on my front brakes. I see Summit has about the least expensive one. Any brands to steer clear of?

 

[mmissile]

I've always used Hurst units.

 

[Shorthorse]

The Summit one is probably just as good as the others. Many companies private label their parts which are made by one manufacturer and sadly, probably in China. If you look closely at the Summit units, they look conspicuously just like the ones from Hurst, Allstar, Granatelli and Jegs,

 

[furyus]

I put a Summit one on my car. It's still working, but the switch fell apart on its first use. I think the Summit one had pipe thread on the housing. Not sure. Just remember I had problems finding the right fittings.

 

[Endangered Species]

I would go with the Hurst and be done with it.

Nothing ticks you off more than when you pull up to do your burn out and the darn line loc won't hold.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I have used a manual valve. Big draw back needed to run brake lines into passenger compartment. Was similar an old hydraulic brake controlar. Hold the lever to lock and let go to release. Used it before Hurst can out with the button.

 

[malex]

I have had a lot of crappy luck with the switches too, just like Furyus. They are hurst switches and the plastic that the rubber wraps around breaks as well as just coming apart.

 

[Shorthorse]

I have had a lot of crappy luck with the switches too, just like Furyus. They are hurst switches and the plastic that the rubber wraps around breaks as well as just coming apart.

I really like their shift knobs with the button in the knob. I especially like the "sidewinder". The button position is off to the left and comfortably under your thumb. I've never had a button fail but the buttons are inexpensive and replacement buttons can be found at Radio Shack. The reason I know that is because I made one for another car using a regular round knob.

 

[Budnicks]

I've always used Hurst units.

yep Summit Racing
Hurst Roll Control Universal appl. #174500 $106.72

easy peasy

- - - Updated - - -

I put a Summit one on my car. It's still working, but the switch fell apart on its first use. I think the Summit one had pipe thread on the housing. Not sure. Just remember I had problems finding the right fittings.

Most all the solenoids, in most all the roll controls, have an 1/8" pipe thread {pretty universal}
& you need to use an adapter from 1/8" pipe to what ever you use for a 3/16" flared brake line fitting
{or to an #3 -#4 A/N fittings & lines &/or braided Teflon lined flex lines}

Any of the Switches can always be upgraded too,
you can put them almost anywhere,
that you can reach them easily/conveniently...
momentary switch or even a rocker or toggle switch,
I'd suggest running the electronics thru a 30 amp Bosch relay too...

 

[Budnicks]

Or maybe just a adjustable proportioning valve
to aid to redirect the majority of fluid to the front brakes,
that way the rears would hardly work at all &
still have front brakes at will, like you said in your PM &
that way it's not deadheading the hydraulics/MC either, BUT
you'd still need to re-plumb the hard lines, replace the existing distribution valve &
add a couple of flare fittings & lines into the car, mount the valve/nob/lever etc.,
close to you in the car, to be able to adjust it on the fly...

I'd highly suggest;
Make sure if you plan to ever race it,
I'd check with the specific sanctioning bodies rules/book,
for brakes & lines or components inside the passenger compartment too...

Lots of different racing applications, sprints, roundy-rounders {dirt & paved},
drags, drift-cars, truggies, Baja stuff, rock climbers etc.
for different uses of adjustable proportioning valves...

I'd suggest to Google search it &
check out all the different schematics, routing &
all the ways of using & applying them,
to fit your specific needs/wants...

 

[66Satellite47]

When I got back in the game, I got the Jegs solenoid. It works very well, but I've only had the car out 10 times. You can use all sorts of switches, simple toggle switch, variety of line lock specific switches, or ?. I just have a used expensive transbrake switch from the old days that I'm using now, even though quick release of the line lock isn't critical, LOL. The Hurst setups worked GREAT for me many years ago, thousands of runs, no trouble. Doubt it's the same stuff today.

 

[krowbar]

Or maybe just a adjustable proportioning valve
to aid to redirect the majority of fluid to the front brakes,
that way the rears would hardly work at all &
still have front brakes at will, like you said in your PM &
that way it's not deadheading the hydraulics/MC either, BUT
you'd still need to re-plumb the hard lines, replace the existing distribution valve &
add a couple of flare fittings & lines into the car, mount the valve/nob/lever etc.,
close to you in the car, to be able to adjust it on the fly...

I'd highly suggest;
Make sure if you plan to ever race it,
I'd check with the specific sanctioning bodies rules/book,
for brakes & lines or components inside the passenger compartment too...

Lots of different racing applications, sprints, roundy-rounders {dirt & paved},
drags, drift-cars, truggies, Baja stuff, rock climbers etc.
for different uses of adjustable proportioning valves...

I'd suggest to Google search it &
check out all the different schematics, routing &
all the ways of using & applying them,
to fit your specific needs/wants...

I think I found what I need! TCI 861200 Circle track brake shut off. Its purpose is to shut off the right front brake for tight cornering. I could just put that inline on my rear brake line.

 

[Budnicks]

I think I found what I need! TCI 861200 Circle track brake shut off. Its purpose is to shut off the right front brake for tight cornering. I could just put that inline on my rear brake line.

Great !!
Good luck & happy Moparing