Locktite bolts on flywheel or just ARP lube

[4mulas]

Hi all,

What’s the best way to treat the threads of the flywheel bolts. Lube or lock? 130 tooth big block 383 is what’s being worked on. I have ARP bolts and arp lube.

Was wondering if maybe the factory put a thread locker on them, or?

Thanks

 

[vintage chromoly]

Locktite on the treads and a dab of arp lube under the bolt head.

 

[4mulas]

Locktite on the treads and a dab of arp lube under the bolt head.

Thanks, blue, red?

 

[vintage chromoly]

I use red in that application.

Thanks, blue, red?

 

[RJRENTON]

I use red in that application.

IMO....In my opinion, I concur. The flywheel to crankshaft bolts are critical...to insure that they do not loosen under extreme conditions, l would use a Loctite PRIMER AND Loctite RED material on both the crankshaft holes AND the threads of the bolts. For added insurance, ARP fasteners are an excellent choice, TORQUED to either FSM or ARP requirements. If running a manual transmission, consider using the same materials on the pressure plate to flywheel fasteners as well or flex plate to converter bolts.
The Loctite Red material applied with the Loctite primer is tenacious and will not come loose....however disassemble will be a little difficult. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[R413]

When using ARP bolts it’s a MUST to torque to the ARP specs! DO NOT use the FSM for torque specs an ARP bolts. They make the bolts so use them according to their directions. They are usually tighter than stock bolts.

Don’t put on too much loctite, more is not better. So put it on one surface only.

The loctite works just fine without primer. Clean and dry the bolts and holes first.

 

[RJRENTON]

When using ARP bolts it’s a must to torque to the ARP specs, not the FSM.

Don’t put on too much loctite, more is not better. So put it on one surface only.

I’ve never used the primer and loctite works just fine without it. Clean and dry the bolts and holes first.

The Loctite primer is a specialized material that is both a degreaser and increases the bond strength of the thread locking compound (like a catalyst, similar to the hardner in an epoxy resin). Loctite type of materials are ANEROBIC based products that cure without the present of air (they do not dry like paint but cure due to a chemicial reaction). This reaction is enhanced by the use of the specified primer. The non use of the primer delays the achievement of total bond strength. Generally most, but not all people, usually dismiss their use because of the additional cost involved. Sometimes, the "my buddy never used it" rule comes into effect. If, however, the disassembly torque was measured against products assembled with and without use of the primer materials, it would be noted more breakaway torque is required for materials assembled with the primer. It is manufactured and noted for a specific reason....it works. Whether you use it or not (the primer) is totally up to you. For my money and equipment, I'll use the primer as recommended.
Re the ARP hardware's installation torque requirements,.....yes...use the recommendations as noted by the manufacturer. ARP hardware have higher tensile strength capabilities and to take advantage of these characteristics, they must be installed as noted. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[bm02tj]

ARP needs their spec to stretch for the clamp load

 

[vintage chromoly]

Good info on the primer Bob.
To be honest, I’ve never heard of that product.

 

[steve340]

I believe ARP suggest a higher torque figure for their fasteners if Locktite is used instead of their lube which is very slippery.

 

[yella71]

I don't EVER use lock tight on any fly wheel bolts. Ever. Never had an issue. Ever. With lock tight on the bolt it will be difficult to remove the flywheel for service, and you Will have to service the flywheel at some point. If its torqued correctly it will not come loose.

 

[steve340]

I also do not Locktite flywheel or clutch bolts. They are right hand threads and rotation should theoretically not allow then to wind lose.
I pay attention to the fastener and what it is tightening against to make sure the surfaces are true and not all galled up.

 

[vintage chromoly]

I use locktite on the cam bolts, flywheel and ring gear bolts.

I’ve never had an issue removing any of those items.

That said, I’ve never seen a flywheel, cam or ring gear come loose that didn’t have locktite on them.

 

[RJRENTON]

ARP needs their spec to stretch for the clamp load

ARP bolts, and studs, etc., I believe, are a torque to yield fastener, that must be stretched (slightly) to achieve its superior clamping force. This torque value is achieved empirically by testing a specific size fastener to its ultimate yield point. The yield point is achieved by tightening a fastener with a corredponding nut and measuring the torque required to turn the nut, which will be increasing value until the torque value stops increasing, which at this point, the bolt will have stretched to its maximum value (without breaking), which is its yield point. The maximum clamping value will fall within say a 75%-80% of this maximum amount. It can also be calculated by measuring the narrowing of the diameter during a tensile strength pull test in a calibrated device. By torqueing to a specific value allows for the fastener to operate within a manufacturing tolerance determined by the manufacturer and application and by size.
I believe many of the newer vehicles, in critical areas (bearing cap bolts, head bolts, etc.) use a tighten to a torque value then rotating the fastener ***° additional degrees of rotation, to achieve the required clamping torque.
Which method and msterials you use on your vehicles is totally up to you. I'll continue to use my methods and msterials on my vehicles. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[wyrmrider]

torque arp or stock is different locktite vs lube or eo or neverseize

 

[steve340]

ARP (or the ones I use) are not torque to yield as they can only be used once then they must be replaced.
But as other posters have already stated depending on the lubricant used an ARP fastener would use a different torque spec.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Tis each,I locktite the flywheel and torque converter bolts. Your HP may vary.

 

[493 Mike]

I don't ever remember Chrysler instructing on the use of chemical thread locking in the service manuals. Now that may have changed in recent years but, I'm not up on the new stuff. On the other hand I do buy blue Loctite in the large bottle and use it when I think it would provide me with more peace of mind.
My snowmobiles do use it all over the suspensions though.
Mike

 

[yella71]

I use locktite on the cam bolts, flywheel and ring gear bolts.

I’ve never had an issue removing any of those items.

That said, I’ve never seen a flywheel, cam or ring gear come loose that didn’t have locktite on them.

ring gear bolts?

 

[dla4567]

Ask a question here you’ll get many different answers. Why not just ask ARP?