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Lookie what $5000 buys you....

That makes sense. The EDM solids from Howards have the hole in the bottom.
 
"On a hydraulic a hole through the bottom..." sounds like some Oldsmobiles I've had. They were terrible on lifters.
 
A guy from the car club told me...."If you think the BB Mopar has lifter problems, take a look at a Pontiac block".
I looked online. They have lifter bosses that look woefully UNsupported. How do they NOT crack with high lift cams and high spring pressures?
 
I am trying to do everything myself even if I screw stuff up.
Years back when I bought the Lunati cam, the lifters that came with them looked like THIS:

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Oct 5 2014 102.JPG


That hourglass shape with the wide recess in the middle worried me. I was concerned that the lifter oil gallery would gush oil with such a wide open section.
 
Its too bad that the Fall Fling got cancelled last weekend. You probably could have scored an intake there.
 
Reading through this month's Mopar Action, by coincidence Prof. Ehrenberg wrote a 1 page How To on modifying the mechanical advance. Did it the same way you did.
 
I have read his stuff for years. That is where I got the idea!
 
Chipping away at the wiring and lights.
The right headlights lit up along with the center bulbs in the taillights.
I connected a few terminals and....

View attachment 1017381 View attachment 1017382

There was no lamp in the right side of the valance until.....

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I went out to the shed and found 2 headlights and the mounting rings and screws.

View attachment 1017384
SCORE ! The left front side marker isn't lighting up. I changed the bulb. I'll check to see if the terminals have power.

I soldered in 2 good used taillight bulb sockets and was able to get the middle and outer bulbs to work.

View attachment 1017385

The inner bulbs are single filament 1156s, right? The right side was really bright and caused the middle and outer rh bulbs to dim down. I just pulled the 1156 bulb and let the inner edge stay dark.

The rear side markers have corroded sockets. I have them soaking in Evaporust.

The headlight door motor doesn't open but I may not have tried the headlights with the key ON. The lights come on with or without the key on but the door motor is on the accessory circuit.
There is a headlight door relay behind the gauge panel. I've heard of guys using newer, modern relays instead of the factory one:

View attachment 1017386
View attachment 1017387

Wait....Is that for the headlights or for the headlight door motor?

Do you have one of these?

41CRkvnW6AL.jpg
 
I have a 2 volume Factory Service Manual with wire diagrams in it.
I think all is well now. I have tested the lights and ignition system.
Today I met FBBO member BDF6. He was in town to meet up with family and he brought up a used exhaust system for me. He made me a great deal, $200 for a "Header Back" setup in 2 1/2" stainless, manufactured by Pypes. This allows me to have the exhaust system in place when I start the fresh engine at a price about 1/4 what a shop might charge!

Pypes.jpeg

It is a little discolored but I expect it to clean up with some scrubbing.
 
This stuff works great on metals. I use it on stainless steel sinks.

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I have a 2 volume Factory Service Manual with wire diagrams in it.
I think all is well now. I have tested the lights and ignition system.
Today I met FBBO member BDF6. He was in town to meet up with family and he brought up a used exhaust system for me. He made me a great deal, $200 for a "Header Back" setup in 2 1/2" stainless, manufactured by Pypes. This allows me to have the exhaust system in place when I start the fresh engine at a price about 1/4 what a shop might charge!

View attachment 1021057
It is a little discolored but I expect it to clean up with some scrubbing.
This is awesome news! I'd love to meet either/both of you gentlemen and it's great to read you all got together.
I'd have loved to have that exhaust, too. :) Get rid of this ridiculous 3" homebrewed mess under Fred....
Anyways, it makes me happy you all got together. :thumbsup:
 
I have a 2 volume Factory Service Manual with wire diagrams in it.
I think all is well now. I have tested the lights and ignition system.
Today I met FBBO member BDF6. He was in town to meet up with family and he brought up a used exhaust system for me. He made me a great deal, $200 for a "Header Back" setup in 2 1/2" stainless, manufactured by Pypes. This allows me to have the exhaust system in place when I start the fresh engine at a price about 1/4 what a shop might charge!

It is a little discolored but I expect it to clean up with some scrubbing.

I have what looks to be the exact same Pypes system with the X pipe. I have been very happy with it.

One minor suggestion: The X pipe on mine wasn't cut out perfectly - look inside the pipe and see if it is fully open in there. Mine had some pipe remnants that would have hindered flow a bit. I ground these away with a high speed grinder.

Hawk
 
I took chance today and went to one of the only remaining Speed Shops left in town. I was looking for a few things for the 383.

Tog 1.jpg
Tog 2.jpg


I wanted to get an intake and a few other tidbits.
I almost shat a brick when they had what I wanted....

383 Ed 1.jpg
383 Ed 2.jpg

The Edelbrock Performer RPM.....YES, they had it in STOCK and for the same price as Summit Racing!
I went ahead and got the Edelbrock gaskets since they didn't have the Fel Pro that I usually get. I also got a fuel filter and a fuel regulator. In the red car, I have a regulator that is set to send fuel back to the tank at pressures over 7 psi.
383 Ed 4.jpg
 
This is how the 383 has been for 3 weeks:


383 301.jpg
383 302.jpg


Safe keeping and hopefully, dust free....

Valve covers, oil pan and timing cover are just hanging on with a few bolts each, just enough to keep the flies and skeeters out.

383 303.jpg
383 304.jpg
383 305.jpg
 
Time to stab the cam!
Remember the trouble I had with the Comp Cam? Some said that the casting flash at the edges wouldn't be a problem because the lifter never goes over that far....
383 307.jpg
383 308.jpg

You still think the same way?


Comp 3.JPG
 
This engine is being put together with a mix of old and new parts. Old block, heads, rods and crank but machined back to "new" standards. I'm using new pistons of course, new bearings and gaskets as you'd expect. The cam is used, usually a risky proposition but it came with the lifters in order. The timing set is used but has low miles. I used it for about 1000 miles in the red car's 493, then switched to a 3 bolt cam and timing set.

383 60.jpg
383 310.jpg


The valve springs have the same 1000 miles.
Rocker arms and shafts were new in 2006 but replaced in 2013 with maybe 2500 miles on them. Again, the red car got adjustables and these rocker arms were still in excellent shape.

383 67.jpg

383 65.jpg
383 63.jpg

The oil pump drive/ distributor gear is in as per the factory manual....

383 64.jpg


The oil slinger is too....
383 68.jpg
 
I don't feel bad about using some stuff that isn't brand new. That is the whole reason why I save stuff. It is quite convenient to just walk over and grab a good used part that still has a lot of miles left to it. Money is part of it but the recent habit of Calling Summit and waiting for a delivery can be a bummer.
Once I get the oil pan and timing cover on for good, I'm going to smooth out the casting flash on the block and heads, then prime and paint. I'm getting real close to setting the engine in place!
 
I have what looks to be the exact same Pypes system with the X pipe. I have been very happy with it.

One minor suggestion: The X pipe on mine wasn't cut out perfectly - look inside the pipe and see if it is fully open in there. Mine had some pipe remnants that would have hindered flow a bit. I ground these away with a high speed grinder.

Hawk
I am glad to have been able to help the project along.
I did look at the inside of the 'X' before installing and it looked good- a nice, big ovoid hole in there.
The pipes do have some road grime on them as is to be expected when they are used as intended.
What I found strange was that they almost immediately discolored from heat so bad that I thought I was running horribly lean (wasn't). I think it is a batch of strange chinesium stainless...
I was nice meeting another FBBO member.
Greg gave me an extra $20 for 'delivery' & I gave him some hot sauce to try out.
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