looking for input on blown 440 biuldup

[73rattler]

I been looking around on the internet for ideas on what other did. and I seen alot of talk about what not to do and why would you and so forth,,,what I am looking for is wheather to run a roller cam,,or flat tappet. Flat tappet in a cheaper way to go.
what I have so far,,is the 440 block been cleaned and bored 30 over I think am going to check before ordering pistons,,to which I am looking at probe pistons or diamond. I have the forged crank turned 10/10 andf cut with extra keyway and a SCI damper for a blower motor. I need pistons and rods and cam . the heads are going to be eddy's 88 cc's . I have the 671 blower, new and intake and fast fuel injection set up as duals,,along with thier fuel pumps. I planning on a main cap girdle as well. This motor in going into a custom biuld jeep pickup turned into a crew cab 4x4 dually. with a 5 speed over drive nv4500 trans devoris transfer case.. not after spedd just good low end torque and the wow factor. My bigest consern in roller cam or stay withn a flat tappet. I also have the ceramic headers.

 

[1969CoronetR/T]

I went with a roller cam as it will not need the lash periodically adjusted like the flat tappet. I think the roller cam can allow for more horsepower as well since you are going the force induction route.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

446 ci with a 671 injected can bring you over 800 hp.A matched cam,springs & lifters can last a long time if maintained properly.440's have been known to burn pushrod cups,so adding pushrod oiling without the oil orifice in the valve adjuster would eliminate that possibility.
Who will assemble the engine? Have you spoken to anyone about the valve train combo??

 

[dvw]

I went with a roller cam as it will not need the lash periodically adjusted like the flat tappet. I think the roller cam can allow for more horsepower as well since you are going the force induction route.

One thing I've learned about solid rollers is you BETTER stay on lash. If it gets loose catastrophic failure will follow quickly. Hydraulic roller has far less worry. My solids have always stayed adjusted for long periods of time.
Doug

 

[73rattler]

Thanks for the replies so far,,on the cam,,the only thing I am thinking about going with is either hydraulic rollers or flat tappet hydraulic,,no solids. I have a 472 stoker that I had biuldt that has roller hydrailic and roller lifters, I had that one professional biuldt and it tokk over a year and half to get it done. I don't want this one to take so long, so was thinking about biulding it myself,,have buildt motors in the past and never had a problem. I haven't talked with my engine biulder about the cam yet was planning on this coming week. he had allready bored the motor out . but things got put on hold so I picked up all my parts from him and have them at home. I just sold a truck a couple days ago so now I have money to buy more parts.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

In general, regardless of whether is N/A or forced induction, a roller cam os the better choice if you can swing it.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Call several cam grinders and discuss what your goals are.I ended up with Comp after speaking with several grinders.Funny thing about Comp,,every guy I spoke with had a slightly different opinion on the spec's. I also went with solid rollers that have been in my engine for about 7 years.Last time the engine was freshened 4 years ago,I sent the lifters and fuel pump out for rebuilding. Comp called me saying they were fine,told them to rebuild them anyway.They now have about 9,000 miles on them and the last 3 times I had my covers off,no valve adjustment was needed.
Also use the best rockers you can afford!!!

 

[MOPOWER871]

Hem-itis(AL) knows the deal I ran a 871 BDS stage two blower, you have the 671. The 871 is recommended for engines over 425 + cubic inch reason is so you don't have to spin the blower as fast to maintain the amount of air it needs to perform .a faster spinning blower will produce more heat in the induction track, this is a common problem with roots style blowers.
Get a BDS catalog its a pleather of blower info. Soup to nuts on building a blower motor that's going to live .
As far as cams go you really don't need a hell of a lot of cam . Are racing this monster or cruising it ?
You could use a solid or even a hydraulic cam if moneys an issue also you said you are going to run EFI check with your cam manufacturer / engine builder what your plans are.they make cams for EFI blower motors.

If your gonna put your foot into it spend the money on good roller rockers ,shafts valves ,correct springs, titanium retainers, keepers, spring cups ... Valve train weight is an important consideration with a blower motor, blower motors rpm real fast, throttle response is amazing and if the valve train is not up to par or too heavy bad things are going to happen .
I recommend head studs and Cometic head gaskets(no more o-ringed blocks and copper gaskets) there the best thing to happen to the performance head gasket industry in my opinion .
Plasma moly rings and a good forged blower piston .as far as rods goes this is not an area to skimp on. a good foundation yada, yada, yada.... I don't have to tell ya. your block was it bored and honed with plates ?was the block decked line bore checked measured this is a performance build . And if you have the room in the chassis and the wallet a milodon external feed oiling system pan ,View attachment 299143 windage tray, milodon -12 spacer plate ,mellings m63-hv high volume pump you will need a milodon longer distributor drive shaft also. Money well spent. Measure twice build once good luck View attachment 299142

 

[73rattler]

I think I should explain what I am after and doing. I know this is a mopar car b body sight but I'm am here because of wanting to find out some sudjestions for the 440. I'm am putting up a couple of picture of the motor mockup and truck this is in. the engine block in the picture is not the one I'm am biulding as my engine biulder found a small spot on one cylinder and boered it out to 60 over to see if he could clean it up, sudjested I sleave it,,so we are useing a different block. this is going to be a sorts of daily driver /tow/ show truck. I'm looking for a good all around driver with the cool factor on the engine,,nothing to out raigest.

 

[dvw]

For what it's worth we ran a nearly stock 440 with a 6-71. Mopar .557 on 110lca, TRW's about 1/4" in the hole, cast steel rockers, dead stock 906 heads. On alcohol it ran 5.90@118 in the 1/8 at 2900lbs. Shifted at 5500. Now it has a 440, ported stage 5 iron heads, unknown 5.60 solid, eagle rods, 8-1 forged piston. Same car/alcohol carbs shifting at 6000 it's been 5.65@125 1/8. Personally for what you're using it for I'd put a set of aftermarket rods and forged pistons 8-1, .550 solid cam at 110-112lca. A pair of Eddy 750's and what ever heads I could get cheap. Run it at 1-1 blower drive about 30 degrees total timing and enjoy it. A rocket ship? No. But it'll go right down the road with no issues and have plenty of zip.
Doug