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M&H Non AC Dash loom into an AC loom?

Malicious

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M&H Non AC Dash loom into an AC loom?

Hi All,

I've brought new M&H wiring for my 68 Coronet rebuild but I'm also trying to retain the factory AC setup.

M&H don't offer an AC version of their dash loom, so I'm left to hopefully piece it together. They have the AC loom add on which I have but the fuse box has no provision for AC like my stock dash loom.

I was hoping that some of you might have either done it before or have some advice on how to wire it up either like the factory or factory style.

Here's a pic of my AC loom fuse box vs M&H Fuse Box:
StockvMH-FuseBox.jpg



Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I'd like to do it 'right' and use the stock fuse box rather then 'jury rig' it. The fuse top looks like some kind of flat rivit? Or could I simply connect the green AC loom wire into the bottom connector of the second last fuse (currently no wire) as on the stock it looks like it just loops around to the AC circuit anyway?

Cheers!

- - - Updated - - -

Actually, stupid question, can I just swap the fuse boxes over? is there anything holding the box it's self to the loom? I think I may have one other wire different as well.

I may have to have a fiddle on thursday night when I can get to the car again...
 
I used a replacement (non A/C) harness from M&H and their add-on A/C harness. The two went together without issue. Do you have pictures of the add on harness handy? There should be a fuse holder end on it that just slips into the fuse box on the new harness. There may be a second jumper that runs from one fuse holder to another to tap off power.

Otherwise, the "bottom" fuse holder in the old harness should also pop out and you can re-loom the old A/C harness section on the new harness (but try the new A/C harness first). The old one may connect to a top fuse holder, but that should be a female terminal that just slips off (with some persuasion).
 
Thanks mate, i don't remember seeing the fuse cup, certainly wasn't attached to the loom. I hope I have dropped it out of the bag and lost it.

Meant to get out there last night but I've been extremely busy. I'll head out there tomorrow arvo after the game. Go GIANTS!
 
Don't connect the AC wire direct to the center set of contacts or you will have no fuse in-line (if I understand what youare saying). Those center contacts are just an unfused 'buss' for power distribution.

The old fuse panel could be used if it cleans up. I would be cleaning the contacts to bright finish. The only possible issue is if there is any corrosion between the copper rivets and the contacts and wire connection tabs; if you are in a low humidity area, it might be in pretty good shape. And I find the old contact material to be generally better than new; I use silver plating powder to restore them (but that is pricey for a single job).

Also it would work if you moved the AC fuse contact from the old box to the new. (The one that goes in the missing contact position that you show.)
 
Thanks for the help. Turned the shed upside down and couldn't find either the packet the AC loom came in or the missing fuse box plug in. Ended up de pinning a spare loom and sanded it back to near new.

So now I get back to plugging the loom in ready to final bolt up the dash and I find that the 'panel light' dimmer dial switch has the middle pin snapped off. Having a stella run on this dash so far!

Don't 'spose anyone has either a lead on a reasonably priced dimmer switch or a way to fix it up? Tried soldering a wire to the rivet with a male blade plug on the end but I couldn't get the solder to stick. Next thought is to drill out the rivet and try to either bolt or rivet a blade fitting back into the back of the switch.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh also the reason I got confused is the m&h fuse box has a all three of the bottom hot plugs on a common block, unlike the factory one where the 'hot' side of the AC fuse is separate to the other two and is feed by a short wire connected to the two next to it. So the m&h fuse box makes that short wire redundant. Not quite 100point correct but more safe and efficient.
 
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