Machining New Intake Angle - 440 Engine in Car

[moper]

If the bolts are hitting at the top of the holes, as you stated, then milling the port side of the intake will only make the problem worse.

This is what I'm thinking. You need to test fit it all, and yeah - it sucks. But it beats the wrestling, expense, and embarrassment you've been experiencing. The holes in the heads need to be centered in the intake bolt holes.

 

[beanhead]

Older thread I know..but @PurpleBeeper did you ever get this solved?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Older thread I know..but @PurpleBeeper did you ever get this solved?

I did not. I did get all the stuff Hughes Engines suggests (wax rope, thumb-wheel wrench, precision machined washers) then I decided my oil was likely getting into my cylinders past the valve guides, so I never had the intake machined.

 

[beanhead]

I did not. I did get all the stuff Hughes Engines suggests (wax rope, thumb-wheel wrench, precision machined washers) then I decided my oil was likely getting into my cylinders past the valve guides, so I never had the intake machined.

Ah ok. I seem to be having an oil issue too that I thought maybe was the lower intake ports, but after switching to a separate valley tray...chambers still getting oil and the valves look like a coffe pot that got left on all day, so....the RPM heads are off and going to the shop this week. Gonna have a few CCs milled off while they're in there.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Ah ok. I seem to be having an oil issue too that I thought maybe was the lower intake ports, but after switching to a separate valley tray...chambers still getting oil and the valves look like a coffe pot that got left on all day, so....the RPM heads are off and going to the shop this week. Gonna have a few CCs milled off while they're in there.

Cool. If you ever need to check intake alignment, then the Hughes site has a very good method once you wrap your head around it. "Basically" you put precision made washers under the intake & above the heads on the 4 corners (say .020" thick washers). You lay in some very thick "plastigage" (wax rope - say 0.100" thick) and gently/evenly tighten down the intake onto the heads with no valley pan (thumb wheel socket recommended). You pull off the intake and measure the plastigage at all 4 corners and your machinist does the rest.

 

[BSB67]

Cool. If you ever need to check intake alignment, then the Hughes site has a very good method once you wrap your head around it. "Basically" you put precision made washers under the intake & above the heads on the 4 corners (say .020" thick washers). You lay in some very thick "plastigage" (wax rope - say 0.100" thick) and gently/evenly tighten down the intake onto the heads with no valley pan (thumb wheel socket recommended). You pull off the intake and measure the plastigage at all 4 corners and your machinist does the rest.

That is an option. Its a bit complicated, and setting up and machining is not easy and not everyone can do it well, and finally, you don't know if that manifold will work on any other heads, or is the next manifold will work on those heads.

Every set of heads I do, I have 0.050 - 0.060" cut from the intake side of the heads, and use two 0.030" gaskets on both sides of the pan gasket. You can mix and match 0.015" gaskets if needed. They always seal, no need for sealant (I actually spread some light grease or WD-40 on the intake and head gasket sides). I'll swap three intakes in an evening dyno session because intake R&R takes 15 minutes.

If the heads are going to the shop already, consider this.