Making (yet another) investment. FRONT suspension. Opinions/Advice

[biomedtechguy]

is the bag of bolts and washers intact???? When I got mine there was a hole and I'm not sure what all was supposed to be in it...

I don't know. I had everything shipped to a buddy's house.
I'll find out and get back to you.
EDIT:
Hardware was in a sealed plastic bag taped securely to the black foam packing material.
Mike-My friend and I got to jabbering about car stuff and the Turbo 400 backing up the 62mm turbo boosted 2JZ 6 cylinder in his 87 Conquest TSi and I forgot to untape the hardware bag for pix and a description for comparison.
I'll go back over there tomorrow night if he's home and grab that hardware bag.

 

[biomedtechguy]

is the bag of bolts and washers intact????

Mike, see above EDIT.

 

[Mike67]

Hmmm???? Mine had a bag of bolts & washers.
The new hardware is to bolt the new K member in...I had washers sliding around, one was actually hanging out the box. Wanted to compare it to yours...

 

[1967coronet440]

Ya you’d think the k member would come with hardware. Get on the horn with summit ASAP

 

[1967coronet440]

Page 3, #1 states use supplied hardware.


https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/qa1-52313.pdf

 

[biomedtechguy]

Page 3, #1 states use supplied hardware.
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/qa1-52313.pdf

THANKS guys!
HARDWARE WAS INCLUDED IN A BAG WITH THE K-MEMBER.
From the installation manual:
The new K-member can be bolted into the car (Figure 5) using the four 5/8” bolts (two 5/8” x 4 ½”, two 5/8” x 1 ¼”)
and washers supplied with the K-member.
And since I DO have a manual steering box:
If using a manual steering box, bolt the steering box in place using the included ½” x 1 ¼” bolt in the outside bolt hole
(Figure 6)
On another note, they make it sound pretty easy or simple to make the swap!
I do have a couple of questions.
If I use a 2 post chassis lift (should be ideal) to raise the car, am I right in thinking that it would only be possible to lift the car a couple of feet off the ground and I'd have to work on my back, like on a creeper, to get to the hardware if as they suggest I use an engine hoist to support the engine?? Am I missing something?
Thanks again, I await your reply!

 

[5.7 hemi]

I used the factory bolts on the rear to center k frame.

 

[1967coronet440]

I used the factory bolts on the rear to center k frame.

I used a lot of factory bolts when I did my suspension, just cleaned them up and painted them. Frankly I trust these 50yr old bolts more than the newer ****. But having extras never hurt.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I used a lot of factory bolts when I did my suspension, just cleaned them up and painted them.

My buddy who I had my parts shipped to said he figured the factory hardware is what would be used.
I'm the guy who would use what comes with the new parts, unless it's obvious that the factory hardware is stronger.
I'll follow up.
I know now I'm going to want to get this done, but first I have to solve my carburetor problems.

 

[Fizz66Coronet]

My tubular control arms didn't like the curb I hit. Went back to stock. Your stock rebound bumper won't work.

 

[biomedtechguy]

My tubular control arms didn't like the curb I hit.

If I survive wrecking my car and it's my fault, my biggest worry is kicking my own ***...
If someone else is at fault, well I'd rather not go there.
I certainly hope not to ever have any kind of accident that involves an impact with any part of the car.
Sorry you hit a curb man.

 

[Fizz66Coronet]

Yeah changed the leaf springs didn't check the pinion angle live and learn.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Yeah changed the leaf springs didn't check the pinion angle live and learn.

How does that factor in to you hitting a curb, or damaging the control arms? or if I'm that confused maybe you can spell it out for me.

 

[Fizz66Coronet]

I don't think they are made for Michigan roads small impact bent pretty good

 

[biomedtechguy]

I can afford to be picky about what kind of road surface I drive on, and should I find myself on a less than smooth surface I'll proceed with extreme caution, or find another route.

 

[Dennis H]

Every upgrade has had a side effect. Sway bar hit every parking bumper in Nevada until arguably discovered it was upside down. Zerk did not survive one day. Contortion now required to install oil filter, used to be a simple thing.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Contortion now required to install oil filter, used to be a simple thing

I have always had to use a folded piece of cardboard to keep oil from running all over the stock K-member. I was hoping that those days were over.

 

[Mike67]

THANKS guys!
From the installation manual:
The new K-member can be bolted into the car (Figure 5) using the four 5/8” bolts (two 5/8” x 4 ½”, two 5/8” x 1 ¼”)
and washers supplied with the K-member.
And since I DO have a manual steering box:
If using a manual steering box, bolt the steering box in place using the included ½” x 1 ¼” bolt in the outside bolt hole
(Figure 6)
I will wait until tomorrow and check the box the K-member came in myself, because I don't know how thoroughly my buddy checked the box. Also there are a number of other boxes with my order, and while I would expect the K-member hardware to be in-you know-THE K-MEMBER BOX (yeah, that'd be great) I've seen stranger things happen. I'm sure if the hardware is missing Summit will take care of me.
On another note, they make it sound pretty easy or simple to make the swap!
I do have a couple of questions.
If I use a 2 post chassis lift (should be ideal) to raise the car, am I right in thinking that it would only be possible to lift the car a couple of feet off the ground and I'd have to work on my back, like on a creeper, to get to the hardware if as they suggest I use an engine hoist to support the engine?? Am I missing something?
Thanks again, I await your reply!

We built a dolly for mine, the K frame mounting eyes are probably 4 feet off the ground.

 

[biomedtechguy]

We built a dolly for mine, the K frame mounting eyes are probably 4 feet off the ground.

Thanks Mike.
I sure would like to do the work myself, but I don't have a good place here to do it, yet, (garage w/lift on my wish list) my friend who is receiving the parts does, but coordinating times where we can work together on it or just for me to gain access is difficult, I'm keeping the whole project on the D.L. from the wife just because, and I have a LOT of work to do for my clients.
So it's almost a given that I'm going to have the suspension shop I've used before, including recently for my wife's GTO rear axle assembly and suspension do the work.
When I read the installation manual I realized I had the capability of doing it, but the logistics are just too complicated.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Hardware was included with the K-member. I lifted the K-member out of the box to look for the hardware bag...
This QA1 K-member has GOT to be half the weight of the factory unit!
The QA1 LCAs are nice, but man oh man the SPC UCAs are SWEET!!
The QA1 tie rod couplers are WAY WAY better than stock, and the QA1 dynamic strut rods look like props from a Sci-Fi movie! Very beautiful gold finish and precision machined.
Now I'm really going to want to get this all done and rolling!