Master Shut off Switch

[Endangered Species]

HI guys.... I need some advise...
While I'm re-wiring the car and I want to wire it to shut off the power to the panel from inside the car.
I've seen the kits that use a Morris cable that operates the switch from inside while using the push pull lever at the back of the car which would be a PITA because I'll have to move my battery box to make it work.
I was wondering if I can run two switches in succession... the one that at the back of the car wired to one inside the car... from there take it to the main panel. So both switches will have to be one for the panel to be hot.
I'm running 6ga wire from the back switch up to the panel so it wouldn't take that much effort to wire in another switch then to it's final destination.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[dvw]

Cable on mine. The black tube is 3/8" fuel line. Tabs home made. The tube is held on the switch with a 3/8" compression fitting cut in half. The Morse cable and tabs from ebay. The rod goes thru a hole in the body next to the license plate.
Doug

 

[Darter6]

I've done just what you are thinking. One switch at the rear of the car and one on the dash. Can't say if it is/was legal for tech but no one ever said anything about it. Used 4 terminal switches.Trunk battery to rear switch with the alternator cut out wire and battery run to switch on dash.From dash to starter and alternator.Either switch would shut down power.It never failed that I would strap in the seat and then had to unstrap because I forgot to turn the switch back on at the back.I didn't need to shut the switch off between rounds, but force of habit I would shut the power off when I would get out of the car.But for the life of me I never would remember to turn it back on before getting in the car.I guess excitement got the best of me.

 

[Darter6]

After posting I realised that that was done with a early Chrysler alternator using 1 field wire. You may have a different charging system.

 

[gkent]

Use a (Ford) solenoid to cut the power. Wire the solenoid switch wherever you want it with a separate wire from your battery.

 

[dvw]

You need to use a continuous duty solenoid. The Ford unit is not continuous duty. Also with a solenoid there will be a low current draw anytime the system is powered up. NHRAstill requires a manual on off from the exterior. With this set up if you forget to turn the manual on/off every time you'll be in trouble. Either dead battery or strapped in the car at the front of the line waving your arms trying to get someone to hit the switch. That's why I run the cable.
Doug

 

[Endangered Species]

Thanks for your help with this.

Okay... here's what I have and what I'm thinking.

I'm running a painless 10 circuit system. It has a 10ga wire running from the fuse box to the starter solenoid (Chrysler style on fire wall) which is basically from the starter switch.
Now Plan was to run cable from the battery directly from rear (external) switch directly to the battery... so from the rear of the car they can kill the entire car. Darter6 - thanks for the thought... need to get a 4 post switch.

Then I will run the hot wire from the rear (external) switch to the internal switch then to the main fuse panel. This way I can kill all power while waiting in the lanes from inside the car.

This is the unfinished panel I'm building. (don't mind the little notes on the fuse panel. lol) The little black box on the bottom right is the power terminal. All power for everything but the stater goes through that terminal.

Thanks again for your input... It's much appreciated.

 

[6PKRTSE]

I don't like to see when someone drills thru the middle of a perfectly good tail panel or tail light. I made and welded a bracket for mine and run it between the bumper and valence on the rear. Also have the cable pull inside as well.

 

[NSS Guy]

Thanks for your help with this.

Okay... here's what I have and what I'm thinking.

I'm running a painless 10 circuit system. It has a 10ga wire running from the fuse box to the starter solenoid (Chrysler style on fire wall) which is basically from the starter switch.
Now Plan was to run cable from the battery directly from rear (external) switch directly to the battery... so from the rear of the car they can kill the entire car. Darter6 - thanks for the thought... need to get a 4 post switch.

Then I will run the hot wire from the rear (external) switch to the internal switch then to the main fuse panel. This way I can kill all power while waiting in the lanes from inside the car.

This is the unfinished panel I'm building. (don't mind the little notes on the fuse panel. lol) The little black box on the bottom right is the power terminal. All power for everything but the stater goes through that terminal.

View attachment 891480

Thanks again for your input... It's much appreciated.

Just a suggestion: I would remove the carpeting from your panel, the carpet could become fire hazard if a spark occurs or a wire or relay overheats. Again just a suggestion.

 

[Shorthorse]

I've wired several race cars with two cutoff switches in parallel. All inside switches were placed on the hump and can be easily accessed while fully strapped in the seat. Unfortunately or fortunately depending on how you look at it, one of those cars hit the wall. When the driver got out, she told me the first thing she did was hit the inside kill switch. She had the car shut down before anyone arrived to assist. It's worth it.

 

[Endangered Species]

Just a suggestion: I would remove the carpeting from your panel, the carpet could become fire hazard if a spark occurs or a wire or relay overheats. Again just a suggestion.

Hi Jamie,

I here what your saying, I thought about the same thing and I debated over it... then I thought "hey", we had the MSD and the painless fuse block mounted on the carpeted floor for years. I just made the panel and used some extra carpet we had left over to cover it.
Now the variable would be the bus blocks...
Point taken, Thanks!

 

[Endangered Species]

I've wired several race cars with two cutoff switches in parallel. All inside switches were placed on the hump and can be easily accessed while fully strapped in the seat. Unfortunately or fortunately depending on how you look at it, one of those cars hit the wall. When the driver got out, she told me the first thing she did was hit the inside kill switch. She had the car shut down before anyone arrived to assist. It's worth it.

Thanks Shorthorse, That's what I'm going to do. You know, I can't see why they don't make an inside switch mandatory for the exact reason that you mention.

 

[383man]

On my 63 I mounted the switch on my battery box which is in the left rear of my car. I then ran a push-pull rod for the switch through the tail light lens. The bulb still works since its in the middle of the tail light and if I ever take it out all I have to do is replace the tail light lens. I did that because I did not want to drill into the body of my car. Ron

 

[33 IMP]

@Shorthorse , i'm no electrical expert, but don't you mean you wired two switches in series? It seems to me that wired in parallel, both would have to be off, to kill the circuit.
I have two switches in my car, one on the rear valence, and one inside, hidden as a theft device and as an emergency shut off, in series. If either is off, the car is off.

 

[Shorthorse]

@Shorthorse , i'm no electrical expert, but don't you mean you wired two switches in series? It seems to me that wired in parallel, both would have to be off, to kill the circuit.
I have two switches in my car, one on the rear valence, and one inside, hidden as a theft device and as an emergency shut off, in series. If either is off, the car is off.

Good catch. Yes, wired in series. So much for my proof reading.

 

[Darter6]

I can never remember which is which.

 

[Gospel Runner]

Help me out here so I can understand this better. The wire to the alternator, which field terminal should it be connected to? Should it be attached to the kill switch or the battery? Is 10ga. wire adequate for this, or should it be a heavier gauge? Thank you!