Maximum Performance N/A 383 build. Input wanted from engine gurus.

[RemCharger]

And a hard no on the 2x4 double pumpers

 

[RemCharger]

Thanks. About 3000 w/driver . Poorly setup converter/ gear tire combo- should have been 10.30 20

 

[451Mopar]

Ran 2 different roller cams in our first race 440
272/[email protected] .620/.620 @109

278/[email protected] on 111 .685/.685

We have quite a few other roller cams ranging from 241/[email protected] .6/.6 (trick flow) to our biggest is 284/[email protected] on 104.

It takes a lot of grinding to get stage IVs to 325cfm..but there is considerable thickness to get it done.

I'm running a 272/278 @ 0.050" @110 LC, 0.726"/0.726" lift with 1.6:1 rockers. Piston to valve clearance is getting tight with the 4.150" stroker crank in the 400 block with the Icon flat top pistons, so can't easely do a larger cam, and likely wouldn't be be any quicker in my heavy 4,200 lb car.

If you want max performance, no reason to not stroke the engine for more displacement. The strength upgrade of the 4340 crank and rods, plus 7/16" rod cap screws is worth it, plus makes the piston weight much less, so 7,000+ RPM is alot safer. I have the BCR aluminum main caps and 1/2" girdle, on a thick web 240 cast 400 block. I don't know how much it helps, but there is not much more you can do to strengthen the block. The oil holes have been enlarged, oil pump ported, 1/2" custom internal oil pickup. No vacuum pump or evac, just using the Icon pistons with the standard Total seal 1/16" ring pack. Next upgrade likely use the radial ported piston rings, or a piston with thinner ring package (or combination of both.)

Air flow will be the power maker. I would look for something that flows at least 350 cfm, max wedge port size. It will need a good flowing intake with at least 1,000+ cfm carb/throttle body.

On my 500" (ok 499") 400 block I have the Hughes CNC ported Victor MW heads, flow 400+" cfm @ 0.800", I forgot the flow at 0.700" where my max cam lift is, but I think around 380cfm? With the big cam and PAC-1326 valve springs, the valve train has been the biggest problem. Using the first version T&D rockers for when the heads were just released 10-15 years ago. Because I broke the rocker stands on the first (early production) heads, the rocker stands were milled off and aluminum max Wedge style rocker stands were used. T&D have stronger rocker systems now (paired shaft rockers), but they are expensive.

A combo like this would likely cost around $10,000? and make 700+ HP.

Andy Finkbeiner built a trick Flow 270 head 470" 400 block stroker, that made over 750 HP with a Wilson ported 4500 flange intake.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/dyno-day-trick-flow-270-mopar-heads/

Andy might see this and chime in. His setup used some nice parts like belt drive and crank trigger ignition, so I could see the cost being quite a bit more expensive?

I believe the changes to go over 800 HP NA and be reliable would make the cost over $20,000+ using an aftermarket block, custom pistons, custom heads with Ti valves and Cu/Be seats, likely aluminum rods, various engine coatings and such.

 

[451Mopar]

You wouldn't happen to have any older cams collecting dust you'd be interested in selling, would you?

worth a try

have a Comp 264/[email protected]" on 112 LC HXL lobe solid roller cam, and the original Victor MW heads setup with PAC-1325 springs Ti retainers, and such. The heads have been ground/cut on mostly for pushrod clearance and valve spring height, ports were cleaned up a bit, but not ported, I think only 335 cfm?
PM me if interested.

 

[dvw]

You have a idea in mind to go quick with a heavy car. That in itself is difficult. From your questions your race engine building knowledge is limited. You have parts that will build a decent engine. However the parts listed are not really what I would use for your goal. When you say low 10's. What is that? 10.0, 10.3. 10.5? A 10.3 at 4000lbs is going to need about 725 uncorrected HP. A 383 isn't going to make that with the listed parts. Three options. A; Use what you have and run slower. 2: Spray it pretty heavy and get closer to your goal. 3: Rethink your project. RPM equals less service life and more breakage. Heavy parts increase that possibility. Could you twist is to 7500 with these parts? Yes, but for how long? For a high rpm combo it needs: more gear, converter, lighter pistons, better rods, better heads. You gave no cam specs so thats an unknown. Also what comprssion ratio and fuel? If it were me? You already own the parts you have. I'd screw together what you have assuming the cam is in the ballpark and see how it runs. Then when you see how quick it is make a decision. Maybe at that time start with a single 4 barrel and learn to spray it. That will be another learning curve that can go wrong quickly. The best running stock stroke low deck (400 not 383) I've seen is John Browns 68 Sattelite. It's been mid 9's on motor@408". My advise. Start slow and soak up all the knowledge you can with similar builds.
Doug

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Don't pick out a cam until you have a rpm target. I would prefer a narrower LSA on a 383 especially if your winding it up.

In such a heavy car NA....maybe do 4.88, 4.56 with nitrous. Even a 4.33 be better then 4.10.
I don't think the old TRW domed pistons had very deep valve reliefs for going with a big cam. From what RemCharger has said full floating h beam rods would be a good idea if you are going to wind it up. The last rebuild we went with eagle h beams on our heavy TRW pistons. The rods were much lighter then stock and free floating.

A heavy car would love a stroker engine and keep the 4.10s.
Nothing wrong with using your parts and having fun, got to start somewhere.

 

[Garceau]

to me it comes down to you building whatever you want with whatever goal in mind and getting there however you can

OK I know that's overly simplistic. But I think the reality is, unless you build something that is so radical or extreme and/or doing something nobody else is (ridiculously fast) its only a milestone for you and you alone. Because what ever I am impressed with or not impressed with should have no bearing on what you are doing and are happy with.

Quite honestly and I may be the only one on this site....but I hate the 383. I think it lacks so many cubic inches for its overall weight and some of the factors it has regarding stroke/bore. I mean it gives up how many pounds to a 340, and about the same to that ridiculous SBC 400 but with less cubes.

Late 90s I built a 383, had good compression 13.5 ran on race gas, .590 MP cam, etc....but the garage ported 452s (maybe 906s) were lacking enough flow to get the most out of the combo, that I am aware of. It broke a rod mid season, and I took a stock pump gas mid 70s 440. Ran a hone down it, swapped heads and cam, threw it in the car..... went to the track and went faster by about a tenth. Yes I know there were combo issues with both set ups, I was young and broke and doing everything I could to get to the track each weekend so I sacrificed in some areas.

I think a 4000 pound car with the 383 will take some serious dollars, and major engine building as well as a completely spec'd out combo from dampner to rear tires to get the numbers you want (low 11s NA) AND live long enough to enjoy it.

 

[67charger383]

Thanks for the input y'all.

I think I'm going to see what I can do whit what I have, and probably bite the bullet and build a stroker motor in the future.

No sense in starting again from scratch before I can see what the combo can do.

 

[4speed68rt]

Put it together for what it is and it will still be fun to drive.

 

[RemCharger]

With well ported 906 heads my Charger went 11.40s at 116-117. Put the indy -1s and intake and it went 122.5. No other changes.

 

[1KoolBee]

Stroke it to 451, 3.9” stroke, 6.7” BBC rods, way lighter reciprocating weight. You could do this with an offset ground 440 crank. These flat top Diamonds produced 11:1 compression at 84cc, 78cc trick flows should get you closer to 12:1. IIRC, this setup saves over a pound per cylinder over stock rods and TR dubs. With a good oiling system and appropriate valvetrain, 7000+ should be doable no problem

 

[mopar 3 B]

You have a idea in mind to go quick with a heavy car. That in itself is difficult. From your questions your race engine building knowledge is limited. You have parts that will build a decent engine. However the parts listed are not really what I would use for your goal. When you say low 10's. What is that? 10.0, 10.3. 10.5? A 10.3 at 4000lbs is going to need about 725 uncorrected HP. A 383 isn't going to make that with the listed parts. Three options. A; Use what you have and run slower. 2: Spray it pretty heavy and get closer to your goal. 3: Rethink your project. RPM equals less service life and more breakage. Heavy parts increase that possibility. Could you twist is to 7500 with these parts? Yes, but for how long? For a high rpm combo it needs: more gear, converter, lighter pistons, better rods, better heads. You gave no cam specs so thats an unknown. Also what comprssion ratio and fuel? If it were me? You already own the parts you have. I'd screw together what you have assuming the cam is in the ballpark and see how it runs. Then when you see how quick it is make a decision. Maybe at that time start with a single 4 barrel and learn to spray it. That will be another learning curve that can go wrong quickly. The best running stock stroke low deck (400 not 383) I've seen is John Browns 68 Sattelite. It's been mid 9's on motor@408". My advise. Start slow and soak up all the knowledge you can with similar builds.
Doug

That car could be 600 lbs. lighter depending on the year and what has been removed. Could add up to be even more.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Want to go fast in that Charger put it on a diet. Get rid of all the extras.
It will be lots cheaper in the long run and also less stressful on the body and engine.

 

[Polo62]

I would put that motor in a dart and get something bigger for the charger