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Milling piston dome?

10.64 with .150 x 4.375 gasket.

I may run into issues with intake fitment
going that thick on gaskets but then again
maybe not. So I need to borrow some head
gaskets or steel spacers to see what works.
 
walk me through your deck ht procedure
how did you find the center of the main?
1/2 the housing/ cap?saddle/
or
did use a bearing and then half the main dia?
cheers
 
walk me through your deck ht procedure
how did you find the center of the main?
1/2 the housing/ cap?saddle/
or
did use a bearing and then half the main dia?
cheers

I removed the bearing from the saddle torqued the cap on measured from ID of bearing saddle to deck surface. Next measured ID of the saddle then added radius of the saddle ID to first measurement
 
good- that's the proper way to do it
do all 4 corners unless you are sure the block is square
I'm not looking but what is your deck ht/ how uch cut est.
makes a difference on pushrods if everything is stock (and gskt)
 
good- that's the proper way to do it
do all 4 corners unless you are sure the block is square
I'm not looking but what is your deck ht/ how uch cut est.
makes a difference on pushrods if everything is stock (and gskt)

Well going by the advertised deck height of 10.720 there’s been .108 taken off the deck.
I checked all four corners and it’s square.
I came up with 10.612 for block deck height
 
Simple way, measure from saddle to deck then add 1/2 of the bearing saddle, need a big caliper
and an inside mic. I’d use a head gasket thick enough to get back to deck height plus .030 no special intake, push rods or geometry problems, stock stuff.
 
is that one gasket or one set
There are also copper
IDK of "block saver" thick shims for a hemi
 
Don't have a gram scale or the density weigh of aluminum.:D
Heck, thought everyone has a scale that works on engines :D

Yea I keep forgetting about the quench thing with a hemi. The block doesn’t need any machine
work I just need to get the right parts to assemble it. I would like to get it to 11.5 to 1 or close
or to put it another way I want to run 93 pump without fighting detonation issues.
Lots of things affect running pump gas in a higher compression engine as you know including running temp and air temp. Use to have a 340 that was over 10-1 (was supposed to be 10.3) with a close to stock cam and it would ping pretty good once the water temp was 180-185 and outside temps were in the mid 90's but 1 gallon of av gas to a tank of 93 took care of that. The small airports around here sold it if you brought in your own can but running straight 93 in a 11-1+ engine will do ok so long as you keep your foot out of it. Used to put pump gas into a car with 12.5-1 just to run it once in awhile (wasn't racing it at the time) but one time when I took it to the track, I forgot about that and made a pass. When I got my time slip after a test and tune pass, my ET was down and that's when it hit me so pulled the plugs expecting burned off ground straps but they looked fine. Got rid of the pump gas and stuck in race fuel and ran what it usually did. If that did any damage, it sure didn't show it....
 
is that one gasket or one set
There are also copper
IDK of "block saver" thick shims for a hemi

I don’t have a problem using copper gaskets just want to use the best gasket for the application. Not sure if that link to Jegs above is a pair or not. So is 11.5 to 1
in a Hemi to high for 93 pump?
 
I don’t have a problem using copper gaskets just want to use the best gasket for the application. Not sure if that link to Jegs above is a pair or not. So is 11.5 to 1
in a Hemi to high for 93 pump?
That is one one gasket.
 
I don’t have a problem using copper gaskets just want to use the best gasket for the application. Not sure if that link to Jegs above is a pair or not. So is 11.5 to 1
in a Hemi to high for 93 pump?
It’s all timing and load, If copper is used once over .100 they recommend o-ringing the block or head. Cometics can be stacked way over 1/4” .140 is the thickest they make but any two can be used by removing one outside layer to stack together (stainless-neoprene-stainless) don’t forget to make sure the deck dowels are long enough, been down this road.
 
It’s all timing and load, If copper is used once over .100 they recommend o-ringing the block or head. Cometics can be stacked way over 1/4” .140 is the thickest they make but any two can be used by removing one outside layer to stack together (stainless-neoprene-stainless) don’t forget to make sure the deck dowels are long enough, been down this road.
Cometics can be reused, copper too if annealed.
 
It’s all timing and load, If copper is used once over .100 they recommend o-ringing the block or head. Cometics can be stacked way over 1/4” .140 is the thickest they make but any two can be used by removing one outside layer to stack together (stainless-neoprene-stainless) don’t forget to make sure the deck dowels are long enough, been down this road.

This will be going in a 69’ bee with a 4 speed and 3.91 gear. I know it’s about camshaft selection
which can be accommodated when the time comes it will be mostly street driven romped on from time to time. So if I cleaned the deck surface with blue scotchbrite discs would that be a slick enough surface for the MLS gasket? The deck currently does not have machine marks left behind from being cut.
 
only use scotchbright if the motor is apart and you are going to clean, clean, clean
damn stuff is worse than glass bead
those are iron heads
best ask the experts
but IMHO 11:1 would take a larger than necessary cam to cut the DCR
 
I will be using aluminum heads on this one. Yea I have used my share of scotch Brite and know how it gets everywhere and how abrasive it is. the engine is completely disassembled and will be cleaned thoroughly before reassembled.
 
I will be using aluminum heads on this one. Yea I have used my share of scotch Brite and know how it gets everywhere and how abrasive it is. the engine is completely disassembled and will be cleaned thoroughly before reassembled.
good
do you have the flows on your new heads?
 
So I have a game plan on this hemi block to hopefully get back to close to original deck height
and hopefully have a good stock intake fit and lower compression all at the same time. But losing some of the squish has me a bit concerned. should I be worried about detonation or poor
performance with moving the heads this amount from the top of the piston?
 
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