MOPAR BIG BLOCK OIL PUMP DISTRIBUTOR GEAR INTERMEDIATE SHAFT STUCK....383 440 ETC

[HAHNAGON]

I cannot get the oil pump/distributor intermediate driveshaft out of the block and off the camshaft. I've done it a hundred times before on multiple engines but for some reason, this one doesn't want to come out. Before I do something stupid, I figured I should ask for some help. Help? Any suggestions or things that have worked for people in the past? I have tried all the tools pictured in the last photo, as well as heat, penetrant and some other tools. This particular engine is a 383 that has been rebuilt and ran many times before this issue. Engine is set at top dead center and I'm trying to pull it out to move it inline with the crank/cam to install a new distributor. Thank you.

 

[clazar]

Take the oil pump off & see if you can " tap " it up out of the block.

 

[eldubb440]

it's probably stuck in the pump

bend the end of a flat screw driver 90* and try getting it under the gear

or if you can get the pump off, it may be free........ I'd probably pull the pump first

 

[R413]

Take the oil pump off & see if you can " tap " it up out of the block.

This one, anything else you may damage a gear by pulling from the top.

I usually use a large straight blade screwdriver and turn the slot so the gear climbs out of the bushing.

I have one doing the same thing, and it’s a rebuilt engine with 10K miles, runs just fine.

 

[T2R9]

I have had luck placing two large screwdrivers in the slot and squeezing the handles together to wedge them in and work it out. Otherwise pull the pump and tap it out as mentioned above.

 

[beanhead]

Yeah, I agree with the above. If it's that stubborn, just pull the pump. Not too tough on a BB Mopar..

 

[MoparRobTX]

Mine was stuck and I pulled the pump and knocked it out from the bottom. It had some rust on the shaft that wasn't allowing it past the bushing

 

[HAHNAGON]

Ok. Remove pump and tap out. Yes. But i dont have a new gasket for it today, so let me ask this instead.....is it that important that I have the intermediate gear shaft groove in line with the crank/cam at TDC and the mushroom head of the rotor pointing to cylinder 1 when installing distributor?

 

[beanhead]

.....is it that important that I have the intermediate gear shaft groove in line with the crank/cam at TDC and the mushroom head of the rotor pointing to cylinder 1 when installing distributor?

It is if you want to keep it in line with the factory spec. In reality, it doesn't matter....what matters is, where the rotor points when piston #1 is at TDC firing needs to be wired to cylinder #1, and then the rest of the plug wires get connected according to the firing order and distributor rotation direction. The factory did it the way they did to have the vacuum advance unit pointing to open real estate, but you can certainly alter the position to suit your needs.

 

[Daves69]

I use a large Craftsman blade screwdriver and an adjustable......

I can work it back and forth to get it to climb up for me. Some extra oil may help.
If that don't cut it, off the pump.

 

[Geoff 2]

I would want to know why the shaft does not come out.......
That is a problem.
And it could be THIS problem that I discovered 45 yrs ago.....
The forerunner to Mopar Performance was Direct Connection. They sold an 'improved' pump drive. I bought a couple for my 440s. They were made of Chrome moly steel & the hex end was tapered, unlike the factory drive which had an abrupt end where the hex was....& could shear off with high pressure/high vol oil pumps.
The problem with CM steel is it is hard.....but not hardened. And the bronze bush is super hard & really chews up the shaft.
If the drive shaft in this engine is an aftermarket item, then it has probably worn, built up a burr preventing it from coming out. Also, sludge on the shaft can make removal difficult.
I solved the wear problem of the shafts by using an alum bush.

 

[Dragon Slayer]

Does it rotate at all turned backwards and attempt to rise or stuck completely?

 

[HAHNAGON]

Does it rotate at all turned backwards and attempt to rise or stuck completely?

It is not frozen in the gear. It does rotate right and left very, very slightly. I have had it out before a few months ago and it was hard to get out but came out after a few minutes of trying. Now it won't. I went ahead and put distributor in and drove it. Runs good but i still feel like it could be better and plan on pulling distributor again.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I use a large Craftsman blade screwdriver and an adjustable......
View attachment 1559434

I can work it back and forth to get it to climb up for me. Some extra oil may help.
If that don't cut it, off the pump.

If you have a large enough box to fit the plastic handle. You just take a picture where slot in drive gear is now and put it back the same place. If you turned engine over since removing dist you need to #1 etc. Are there metal chips near lifter in picture ?

 

[Tony Tee]

If your oil pump is dragging or tight that it won't easily spin. It will prevent the shaft from twisting out easily. It won't pull straight out due to the 45° cut gears. If this is the case ? You can put a socket on the damper bolt and rotate the engine it in reverse rotation and it might come out by itself. Maybe?

 

[Fran Blacker]

If your oil pump is dragging or tight that it won't easily spin. It will prevent the shaft from twisting out easily. It won't pull straight out due to the 45° cut gears. If this is the case ? You can put a socket on the damper bolt and rotate the engine it in reverse rotation and it might come out by itself. Maybe?

Maybe a helper turning engine backward and OP on the screwdriver on drive gear at the time.

 

[Orig69]

You will need a flat head screwdriver larger than the one that's in the picture. Turn the screwdriver counter clockwise until it climbs up the gear (more than the last time) then turn the screwdriver the other way until it's all the way down. Keep doing that and it will come out.

I would not reuse that intermediate shaft.

 

[MoparLeo]

Here is some info from the Factory Service Manuals that may help other members in the future.