• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

More AMPs

Doorkicker

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:55 AM
Joined
Apr 4, 2022
Messages
275
Reaction score
226
Location
Raleigh, NC
I need help finding a new alternator with more amp production. Based on all the fans and various electrical components, i need a min 160 amp alternator and would prefer something north of 200. Can anyone please point me in the right direction to who makes such an animal? I can't find anything. Engine is a 440 Mopar and has a standard accessories front end. I do have power steering. Many thanks in advance.
 
What are you running that draws that kind of "continuous" power ??
 
But seriously Doorkicker..... See what alternator the car originally came equipped with and verify what you have. Likely a 60-75 amp alternator. If electrical things have been added, look up the specs on them to see what the max current draw is at nominal 12 Volts. Seriously doubt it going to be necessary to go to the extremes you stated. Likely that a 100 W model will do, also make sure you have the proper voltage regulator for what ever alternator you choose.
Be aware that cars stock wiring was designed for the electrical items the car came with. Your wiring may need to be upgraded for the higher current requirements.
 
Google search.
 
Last edited:
Perhaps you should explain instead of harsh criticism.
@Don Frelier Wait... he slanders me without provocation, I respond in kind using the exact same words... and I'm called out for harshness?
Amazing. I've been nothing but grateful and very polite to all here. Feel free to review all my posts. And I've tried to help where I can.
Clearly, I'm in the wrong place.

Since we're here... feedback for those that commented.

@twecomm #3- That's hilarious! But a pretty cool thought, no?

@RemCharger - I like loud exhaust. No stereo... no speakers. But running around on a starter... very funny! I literally LOL'ed. Sorry to inform you, I'm not doing that.

@BigFlo - Thank you!!... exactly the bump in the right direction I needed!

@1967coronet - Google... hey, I didn't think of that... thanks. BTW... the point is - I thought - was to come here and get real advice from people who work on these cars all the time. I did google and it came up with a lot of junk... but I suspected - incorrectly - that someone here might have had a similar need/issue and I could learn from them. I'll be sure to google from now on.

@twecomm #7 - As I mentioned in the original post... nothing about this car is stock. Just the fans alone for the engine and trany draw 75amps... and will typically all run at the same time - not to mention, we all know the slower the car is moving the greater amp draw by the pull fans. Need to include the fuel pump, which is 14amps at the pressure/vol I have it set.

I had a 110amp alt and it's was pretty good, but I've added a few things that put it at max. When I use the wipers and/or headlights, things got problematic and start to cause issues with the ignition, resulting in misfires and as things deteriorate the engine may shut off. Actually, just opening/closing the headlights can cause issues when things are tight - anyone with a 66/67 Charger knows those motors are not small - not huge either, but you get the point.

It's important to keep in mind that this is almost a daily driver and I run it hard all the time. That's why I built it. To have fun and drive around a lot. So, it sits in traffic, rain or shine, runs at "high speed" (I say that because I rarely cruse over 65, even with an overdrive), lots of stops and starts, I like to take off fast, turn hard, and brake hard - hence the suspension mods and wilwood on all corners.

Also, the alt only approaches max output 110amps at around 1800 RPM, I idle at 1000-1100. The fans are drawing their max at a stop light and the alt is not keeping up with demand - and yes, there is a very small pully on the Alt. Another issue - granted, this is a recent development with the replacement alt (which is exactly like the one it is replacing) is under near max draw it heats up pretty bad... the belt heats too and then slips. If I hit any rpm...north of 6000 (which I do a lot), it'll throw the belt. I've installed various belts at different tightness, but the alt pulls hard on the pully and belt to the point where it starts to overheat... stretches... and eventually punts. You can actually smell the belt as it starts to give up.

But I believe the issue under all this... as the alt heats up from pulling hard because of the draw it starts to give up and then everything runs off the batt... and then deteriorates. If I pull over and let it cool, I'll get back to 12.9-13.1... if I let it sit over night, it'll be happy at 13.5. But after a few miles you can start to smell the belt burning and the output falls off quickly... and then everything starts to cascade. Interestingly, I will shut off one of the engine fans (either one... I tested) and the alt seems to settle down, volts come back up, and it seems relatively happy (less belt burning smell). So that leads me to think I'm just drawing right at it's limit (or more) and it's struggling.

Anyway, I've had virtually no issues with the 110 amp alt I had, but I've added a few things that I think had it working pretty hard. And I think that extra work shortened its life. I really liked it so I just bought an exact replacement. However, this new one seems to be more sensitive and having issues immediately. My approach was to get an alt with enough headroom as to not run it at max. And just because I'm looking for a 140-160amp alt doesn't mean that's what it's going to draw but rather I'll have a bit more stability when everything is "on". Nevertheless I'm looking at an electric water pump... so, 110 won't cover everything after that for sure. And I operate on the assumption I need enough power for sitting at a stop light in the middle of a heavy summer rain at midnight.

As for the regulator... the current (pun intended) alt is a one-wire with an internal regulator. However, based on feedback from a different thread... I'm probably going to go with an external regulator when I get a new alt.

The only stock pwr draws are wipers, headlight motors, and exterior lighting - headlights, brake lights, turn signals. There are no dash lights, no dome/cabin lights, no stock gauges, no clock, no cig liter, no amp gauge, no AC/Heat, no fans, etc. Everything runs off a different relay/fuse system (Leash) installed where the glovebox would be to drive ignition, fuel, EFI, ECU, displays, fans, transmission controller, and misc. gauge lights.

And as for not knowing ****... perhaps. Of course, opinions are like ********... everyone got one.

Nevertheless, I did wire the whole car and built everything in it, except the transmission. And it's been running great for the last two years.
 
@Don Frelier Wait... he slanders me without provocation, I respond in kind using the exact same words... and I'm called out for harshness?
Amazing. I've been nothing but grateful and very polite to all here. Feel free to review all my posts. And I've tried to help where I can.
Clearly, I'm in the wrong place.

Since we're here... feedback for those that commented.

@twecomm #3- That's hilarious! But a pretty cool thought, no?

@RemCharger - I like loud exhaust. No stereo... no speakers. But running around on a starter... very funny! I literally LOL'ed. Sorry to inform you, I'm not doing that.

@BigFlo - Thank you!!... exactly the bump in the right direction I needed!

@1967coronet - Google... hey, I didn't think of that... thanks. BTW... the point is - I thought - was to come here and get real advice from people who work on these cars all the time. I did google and it came up with a lot of junk... but I suspected - incorrectly - that someone here might have had a similar need/issue and I could learn from them. I'll be sure to google from now on.

@twecomm #7 - As I mentioned in the original post... nothing about this car is stock. Just the fans alone for the engine and trany draw 75amps... and will typically all run at the same time - not to mention, we all know the slower the car is moving the greater amp draw by the pull fans. Need to include the fuel pump, which is 14amps at the pressure/vol I have it set.

I had a 110amp alt and it's was pretty good, but I've added a few things that put it at max. When I use the wipers and/or headlights, things got problematic and start to cause issues with the ignition, resulting in misfires and as things deteriorate the engine may shut off. Actually, just opening/closing the headlights can cause issues when things are tight - anyone with a 66/67 Charger knows those motors are not small - not huge either, but you get the point.

It's important to keep in mind that this is almost a daily driver and I run it hard all the time. That's why I built it. To have fun and drive around a lot. So, it sits in traffic, rain or shine, runs at "high speed" (I say that because I rarely cruse over 65, even with an overdrive), lots of stops and starts, I like to take off fast, turn hard, and brake hard - hence the suspension mods and wilwood on all corners.

Also, the alt only approaches max output 110amps at around 1800 RPM, I idle at 1000-1100. The fans are drawing their max at a stop light and the alt is not keeping up with demand - and yes, there is a very small pully on the Alt. Another issue - granted, this is a recent development with the replacement alt (which is exactly like the one it is replacing) is under near max draw it heats up pretty bad... the belt heats too and then slips. If I hit any rpm...north of 6000 (which I do a lot), it'll throw the belt. I've installed various belts at different tightness, but the alt pulls hard on the pully and belt to the point where it starts to overheat... stretches... and eventually punts. You can actually smell the belt as it starts to give up.

But I believe the issue under all this... as the alt heats up from pulling hard because of the draw it starts to give up and then everything runs off the batt... and then deteriorates. If I pull over and let it cool, I'll get back to 12.9-13.1... if I let it sit over night, it'll be happy at 13.5. But after a few miles you can start to smell the belt burning and the output falls off quickly... and then everything starts to cascade. Interestingly, I will shut off one of the engine fans (either one... I tested) and the alt seems to settle down, volts come back up, and it seems relatively happy (less belt burning smell). So that leads me to think I'm just drawing right at it's limit (or more) and it's struggling.

Anyway, I've had virtually no issues with the 110 amp alt I had, but I've added a few things that I think had it working pretty hard. And I think that extra work shortened its life. I really liked it so I just bought an exact replacement. However, this new one seems to be more sensitive and having issues immediately. My approach was to get an alt with enough headroom as to not run it at max. And just because I'm looking for a 140-160amp alt doesn't mean that's what it's going to draw but rather I'll have a bit more stability when everything is "on". Nevertheless I'm looking at an electric water pump... so, 110 won't cover everything after that for sure. And I operate on the assumption I need enough power for sitting at a stop light in the middle of a heavy summer rain at midnight.

As for the regulator... the current (pun intended) alt is a one-wire with an internal regulator. However, based on feedback from a different thread... I'm probably going to go with an external regulator when I get a new alt.

The only stock pwr draws are wipers, headlight motors, and exterior lighting - headlights, brake lights, turn signals. There are no dash lights, no dome/cabin lights, no stock gauges, no clock, no cig liter, no amp gauge, no AC/Heat, no fans, etc. Everything runs off a different relay/fuse system (Leash) installed where the glovebox would be to drive ignition, fuel, EFI, ECU, displays, fans, transmission controller, and misc. gauge lights.

And as for not knowing ****... perhaps. Of course, opinions are like ********... everyone got one.

Nevertheless, I did wire the whole car and built everything in it, except the transmission. And it's been running great for the last two years.
Your welcome,
At the age I am it did take me some time to get used to useing search engines like Google and the one on here is great.
The old leece neville alternators off C body cars i think we're in the 140 / 160 amp area.
Guys on here like to joke around but as we see some folks have a bit thinner skin than others.
I am not sure if the new units I was seeing would fall into your junk description.
Speedway , Summit plus some other vendors showed several options some with V belt pulley some with serpentine.
Best of luck with your upgrade.
 
So what are your max draw components? How much do they draw? And remember electric fans and pumps in our cars are centrifugal devices so affinity laws apply.

Agree that external regulator alternators have an advantage. Proper feed point of the alternator to battery and components also makes a difference. Other big concern is if your wiring is good enough to limit voltage drop and do you have good fuse protection on all the circuits so that you don't burn your car down.

I understand electron flow pretty good, so if you give more info we can help guide you a little better........
 
The old leece neville alternators off C body cars i think we're in the 140 / 160 amp area.
My 65 Leece Neville is 60 amps and you can't pick it up with one hand.
IMG_5146.jpg
 
I had a couple of late 70's Chrysler's that had 100amp Leece-Neval's, and those suckers were HUGE !
and yes, they couldn't be picked up with one hand !
even the mounting brackets and braces were heavy, but you COULD pick THOSE pieces up with one hand..........:lol:
:drinks:
 
Some great explanations here about Chrysler charging systems that may help with load placement
search on Youtube for poster '1972 Roadrunner GTX' for some reason I can't get the link to work
 
Some great explanations here about Chrysler charging systems that may help with load placement
search on Youtube for poster '1972 Roadrunner GTX' for some reason I can't get the link to work
There is a pinned thread above here in this Electrical section with links to those videos.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top