More HP/TQ out of stock appearing 383

[TorRed]

First off, I've kind of asked this question in other threads but wanted to try again to get anyone's experience actually building such a motor: 383, either massaged 906 or CNC'd Stealth heads, roller Lunati cam, 231/239 @ .50 535/550 lift, either 3.75 or 4.25 crank for 432 or 489 c.i., stock HP manifolds 2.5" TTI exhaust with Dynomax Ultra Flo mufflers, 4.10 rear with Gear Vendors .78 overdrive, 727 auto & tight 3000 rpm converter, and either stock, Mopar dual-plane M1 or Ede DP4B intake

Thoughts? Would either crank work better given my constraints wanting to appear stocK? Other path would be mostly same parts with stock stroke with custom pistons to get as close to 10to1 compression as possible, but only if it doesn't make sense to stroke it if I'm going with stock HP manifolds and stock height dual plane intake since it's an Airgrabber car.

Thanks in advance,
Jim

 

[dvw]

Find Bill Dicicco on Face Book. His stroked low deck runs very well. Been 11.04@124 I’m G70 Polyglass tires
Doug

 

[TorRed]

Find Bill Dicicco on Face Book. His stroked low deck runs very well. Been 11.04@124 I’m G70 Polyglass tires
Doug

Thank you, although I'm barely on FB I will do that.

 

[R413]

Do you need a 383 block? A 400 would have better piston options.

Do they make pistons for a 4.25 stroke 383 block?

With the stroke you are looking at torque will come with it.

 

[BSB67]

Is that a hydraulic or solid roller?
Not sure exactly what your goal and budget are.

Also the DP4B is 0.40” taller than stock/M1 dual plane. It will support more horsepower easily too.

Maximize your CR/cylinder pressure to match your elevation and gas.

The more flow the better. CNC ported Stealths w/ 2.19 valves. You can do the same with 906 but 20 less cfm, no quench, heavier and more costly. I.e you lose everywhere.

With the right cam, 575 hp should not be out of the question. Call Dwayne for the cam that meets your needs.

 

[TorRed]

Do you need a 383 block? A 400 would have better piston options.

Do they make pistons for a 4.25 stroke 383 block?

With the stroke you are looking at torque will come with it.

Has original 383 motor so that's part of the decision process.

440Source makes two kits for 383's, a 3.75 and a 4.25 stroker. More than a little concerned about the longer stroke, but their pistons on the 3.75 stroke won't work with the stock 88 cc heads, not enough compression.

 

[TorRed]

Is that a hydraulic or solid roller?
Not sure exactly what your goal and budget are.

Also the DP4B is 0.40” taller than stock/M1 dual plane. It will support more horsepower easily too.

Maximize your CR/cylinder pressure to match your elevation and gas.

The more flow the better. CNC ported Stealths w/ 2.19 valves. You can do the same with 906 but 20 less cfm, no quench, heavier and more costly. I.e you lose everywhere.

With the right cam, 575 hp should not be out of the question. Call Dwayne for the cam that meets your needs.

It is a Hydraulic roller, already bought it for a higher HP build which may still be the way I go since I already have all the 'matched' parts except the stroker kit itself. Would still have to decide between 432 and 489 c.i, but leaning heavily toward no more than the 3.75 stroke if I don't stay stock.

 

[BSB67]

Cam seat timing and overlap are important with exhaust manifolds.

 

[dvw]

Unless you run lbs/cube class its pretty hard to have to much stroke. Unless tire choice is an issue. More cubes, more torque, same hp at lower RPM. Win win
Doug

 

[TorRed]

Unless you run lbs/cube class its pretty hard to have to much stroke. Unless tire choice is an issue. More cubes, more torque, same hp at lower RPM. Win win
Doug

Agreed, but only thing I was wondering about is that with the restrictions on air flow will the motor be 'choking' more with the bigger cubes?

 

[dvw]

It'll just lower the peak RPM. Who cares? Pull gear out of it and let it grunt. It'll last longer at lower engine speed. Plenty of guys turn -1 Indy motors to 8000. My 580" with not near enough head. Traps at 7000-7100 using 4.10 with 10.5"×31". 9.0X/148@3350. Has dipped into.the 8.9X@150 in good conditions. Surprises a few BB Chevys with much better heads.
Doug

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

Building a 450" with the 3.91" stroke crank is a great option for a 383 block.

Tom

 

[TorRed]

It'll just lower the peak RPM. Who cares? Pull gear out of it and let it grunt. It'll last longer at lower engine speed. Plenty of guys turn -1 Indy motors to 8000. My 580" with not near enough head. Traps at 7000-7100 using 4.10 with 10.5"×31". 9.0X/148@3350. Has dipped into.the 8.9X@150 in good conditions. Surprises a few BB Chevys with much better heads.
Doug

When you say pull gear out of it, go with a 3.23 or 3.55 rear? Wouldn't necessarily need the O/D with those ratios. Thx

 

[BSB67]

Agreed, but only thing I was wondering about is that with the restrictions on air flow will the motor be 'choking' more with the bigger cubes?

No. It’s not choking. It will limit potential, but that is different. Your biggest restriction will be the intake manifold.

 

[dvw]

When you say pull gear out of it, go with a 3.23 or 3.55 rear? Wouldn't necessarily need the O/D with those ratios. Thx

You would be surprised with big power how little the gear kills it. My so had a carbed, turboed 360. Factory heads, .500" cam, 2.76 gear. We got it to go 10.50's. Over 35 % converter slip because it was still accelerating at the finish line. With tuning and a 3.23 it dipped into the 9.9X range.
Doug

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

When you say pull gear out of it, go with a 3.23 or 3.55 rear? Wouldn't necessarily need the O/D with those ratios. Thx

If you have a torquey engine a 3.23 is a really nice street gear and it will still burn rubber without overly sucking gas.

Tom

 

[496 polara]

What lobe separation on the cam? Find a 400 block and store the original if you are worried about messing it up.

The manifolds make it harder to make good HP so build for torque. A 3.75 stroke with the 383 or a 3.91 stroke for a 400 block will work very well and not be as short on rpm as a 4.25 stroke with your cam.

Miles ahead with the aluminum heads if the budget allows.

If you haven't bought the GV spend that money on some 3.55/3.23 gears and the converter.

 

[BSB67]

I have a 4.25” stroke with manifolds. Stock like idle (15.5”) Cam has 48 degrees overlap. Shift at 6,700. Runs 11.20s at 121.

 

[RemCharger]

Have to agree with the above.. if you're already wiling to go ; stroker, aluminum heads, aluminum intake, etc, there's no reason on earth to cling to the original 383 block.
Go 400